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clutch problem

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evil tsi

10+ Year Contributor
241
0
Feb 26, 2011
findlay, Ohio
i just installed an act 2100 in my 99 gst and if i put the clutch pedal to the floor and put it in a gear its like the clutch is grabbing slightly and if i even think about lifting the pedal it starts to grab while barely off the floor. i know the acts are notorious for this beause they sell the longer rod for it. any input would be great.
 
check where the fork is at in relation to the vehicle....like see if it is more to the driver or passenger side.....you want it more towards the driver side for the most "throw"
 
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Is your clutch adjusted properly?
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check where the fork is at in relation to the vehicle....like see if it is more to the driver or passenger side.....you want it more towards the driver side for the most "throw"

Actually you want it to be centered...OP sometimes the clutch fork gets worn were it sets on its fulcrum, check where it is... also things like your flywheel step height or pressure plate can throw this off in that case you can put a washing under the ball that's the fulcrum point of the clutch fork replacing the clutch fork or putting a washer in would of course involve pulling the trans again...
 
tried all of the adjustments from the video and it didnt help, i ordered the extension rod for the slave cylinder. that should fix it
 
Extension rod will likely not fix it. The clutch is simply not adjusted right or the pivot ball/fork is out of spec. You are dragging the clutch because you are not fully disengaging the clutch. This is called by the fact that you are engaging right off the floor on a 2100, which should have a near-stockish feel to it. My old 2100 would engage half-way off the floor.

Adjusted that pedal assembly and the clutch master cylinder rod.
 
Your clutch is not adjust properly as Kei said at either the fork or the pedal. An extension rod is only a band aid for the actual problem and most likely will not fix anything if you are not disengaging while the pedal is on the floor.
 
i had the flywheel resurfaced so that might have something to do with it. the nut is all the way at the end of the rod and ive adjusted the freeplay. the fork isnt towards the passenger side id imagine its in spec. dont really want to pull tranny to check the pivot ball
 
haha right.. im not sure what the step height was but the grooves in it were pretty deep.also there was an exedy clutch in it with the stock flywheel so id imagne that it was resurfaced at least once before.
 
Do you trust the machine shop you took it to? Did you tell them the correct step height (0.608"-0.612") to machine it to? If you didn't tell them or if their a shotty shop I wouldn't put it past them to have not even mahicned the step...

Also, a few more questions...

What kind of flywheel is this?

Did the Machine shop tell you how much was taken off the flywheel?

Have you have bled the clutch fluid recently?

When where the Master an slave last replaced?

Are their any signs of leakage from them anywhere?
 
The flywheel is factory and I trust the machine shop. I've taken stuff there for about 7 years. The slave and master are brand new. When I replaced them they had a sludge in them from the accumulator so maybe it doesn't have the volume to move the fork? The clutch was bled yesterday. I have a very stiff pedal too
 
But still... Did the Machine shop tell you how much was taken off the flywheel? Or can you ask if they recall an what they set the step at???

You have a accumulator on a 1g?

Is you only problem it engaging that low? or is it actually dragging an not fully disengaging when you shift? if you set with the car in gear with clutch pedal down & bring your revs up to 4k-5k see if your car stay put or creaps forward...

There's a chance you could have bent the forks on the PP if you didn't adjust the Clutch properly to begin with...
But, really need you to describe the problem some more...
 
Its a 2g and if I sit in gear with the clutch pedal down its dragging slightly and wants to go at idle
 
Your CLutch is slipping,

like suggested, check clutch fork, and follow that video link.
 
^^^^ like stated above im out of rod... and if its wanting to go at idle its pretty obvious its slipping and i dont want to glaze it. the extension rod will be here today so i hope that helps. after looking into it more im thinking that the pedal assembly is worn where can i get this assembly? or do i just need bushings? where can i get these at if so?
 
^^^^ like stated above im out of rod... and if its wanting to go at idle its pretty obvious its slipping and i dont want to glaze it. the extension rod will be here today so i hope that helps. after looking into it more im thinking that the pedal assembly is worn where can i get this assembly? or do i just need bushings? where can i get these at if so?

Again, that rod is a band-aid at best. Don't come to rely on it due to the way that your master cylinder adjusts. If you have play in the pedal assembly, you can either remove it and : Replace it. Replace the bushings. Have it rebuilt by someone..or my favorite - Weld it.

Any play in the pedal assembly will cause engagement/disengagement issues.
 
Thanks you for not telling me the obvious again and again(the clutch is slipping LOL... NO WAY LOL)...the clutch I pulled out still had life left. In it..it started by the car not wanting to comeout of gear. So it sounds like it could be the pedal... what would be welded? Thanks again for ## input
 
Well, the clutch isn't slipping so much as it's dragging. What this means is that the clutch is not having enough force relieved from it to keep from transferring power to the transmission, in turn keeping the transmission internals in work and causing you to grind gears. This can be caused by

* Cluch Pedal Assembly being Sloppy
* Slave Cylinder failing
* Master Cylinder Failing
* Master Cylinder Adjustment Rod out of adjustment
* Low Hydrolic Fluid
* Improperly Bled Slave-Cylinder
* Air in the clutch line
* Incorrect Clutch Application
* Flywheel Step Height

I would have to also suggest that you rebleed the clutch. Have someone get in the car, press the pedal to the floor. You turn the bleed screw and keep it open until fluid stops flowing. Then, with the screw open, press the slave cylinder into itself as there is an air-pocket behind it. Close the bleed screw with the slave cylinder pressed in. Have 'Clutch Buddy' pump the clutch 5 times and then press in and hold the clutch. Do this 1-2 more times and see if it resolves your issue. I had the same problem on my GSX with a 2100 and resolved it by pushing the slave cylinder in to eliminate the air pocket at the back of the cylinder.
 
Your Clutch isn't Slipping! it Dragging big difference... .

A couple people I think should Read this an brush up on Clutch Operation

Also Something from RRE about Flywheel step hight link to quote
Flywheel step is the step height of the outer shelf that the clutch pressure plate bolts to. It is the difference between the friction surface and the upper step shown here in the pic. As the clutch's friction surface wears over time and with use, it becomes uneven and needs to be machined flat when ever a new clutch is installed. If you were to machine only the friction surface of the flywheel, the clutch wouldn't grab and hold as well. The step height is critical to proper clutch operation. Too little (shallow) and the clutch will hold power great but it will have trouble releasing. You wont have enough room for the pressure plate to fully retract. When ever a DSM flywheel is resurfaced, how ever much material is removed from the friction surface must also be removed from the upper step. Most local machine shops use a special machine for this. You will ask for the step and you will be lucky to get with in .005" of what you ask for. Most all of these machines are set up to resurface the flywheel at a slight angle (inner diameter slightly deeper than the outer diameter). Often the tool they are using to measure is not accurate and they dont even know how to read it.

.608" to .610" is ideal for DSM performance clutches. Up to .613" will work. Do not try to use anything shallower than .608" Stock is .612" Our flywheels come stepped to .609" to .610" always

So The clutch that "came out of it"? I'm not understanding what's going on here... . did you pull it? or is this a reused clutch?

Also You still haven't answered my all questions from before...

It could easily be anything that has been mentioned above an I highly doubt that the Extended rod is going to fix your problem. If anything that with your clutch not properly adjusted it could easily bend the forks on your PP as I mentioned above...

In any event here is a picture of the Clutch assembly
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Also, Being more specific to start with would help a lot!

I pretty sure almost everyone in here thought that you were talking about the car that is in your profile A 1g not 2g....

EDIT: I see that I type to Slow.
 

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As far as the clutch pedal assembly goes, I wasnt aware this was an issue in 2G cars at all? Did you replace the master and slave cylinders at the same time you replaced your clutch? If so, perhaps you still have some air in the system in need of bleeding. Definitely verify the step height on the flywheel...
 
As far as the clutch pedal assembly goes, I wasnt aware this was an issue in 2G cars at all?

I pretty sure the people above thought he was talking about a 1g...
Since in a 2g there's nothing to weld...

He said their was play so I figure I could proved a break-down of the parts for him to better understand its operation...
 
The very first post stated it was a 99 get... I pulled the tranny myself replaced the slave and master when I put a brand new clutch kit in. The step height im unsure of...that's the only thing im unsure of. Ill try rebleeding it and putting the rod in... like I said the flywheel has likely been resurfaced more than once
 
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