clutch problem.

[andywolff1]

I recently did some work to my 95 gst 5 speed, and just got it back on the road a week ago.

I was having to force it into gear and sometimes I couldn't even do that. I checked for leaks , replaced the master and slave cylinder and adjusted the rod on the master all the way out (correctly, so slave is still self adjusting).

So everything looked good to me, until I saw the clutch fluid and it was black so I cleaned.it out about 10 times and took it for a test drive. Shifted like a brand new car but, after a few hours of driving it gets dirty so fast and starts getting really hard to shift again.

I could really use a few helpful hints on what I should do. Thanks

 

[Pupdeck]

It sounds odd that the brake fluid would get dirty so fast unless the clutch line and or accumulator has varnish built up in it, however the color of fluid would not have a direct relation to your problem. How was the clutch bled? It sounds like there could be air in the line yet if it slowly starts to not work properly after some drive time. I know you said you correctly adjusted the clutch however what do you mean the slave is self adjusting? Sounds like 1 of 3 things to me, air in the clutch system, improperly adjusted clutch master cylinder rod on the pedal, or a worn out pivot ball/pilot hole on the
Clutch fork. 1 last thing, I had that happen in the past on a 95 gst 7bolt and it turned out to be a crank walking bottom end and the shifting would get really tight forcing it into gear due to the crank play. Hope that's a start.

 

[gstmine]

hay you should checked your crank end play if your crank is waking you will have trouble with your clutch to much end play will effect your clutch you could also check for any crank positon codes that could also be a sign that your cank is waking

 

[andywolff1]

I didnt think dirty brake fluid would be the issue either but, when this problem started and i checked everything over it all looked good except for the fluid so I flushed it out until it was clear and it shifted great until the next day. so i looked at the fluid again and it was black so i went through the process again and it shifted great. I bled the clutch by pressure bleeding i guess you would call it, push the clutch down open bleeder screw then close and repeat as needed. I adjusted the clutch master cylinder rod in accordance with jacks transmissions video. if you adjust that rod out to far it closes the valve in the reservoir so the slave cant push fluid back up (no more self adjusting slave). its not crankwalk i just replace the crank and its not walking at all.

Id hate to have to drop the trans again for the 3rd time to check that pivot ball/pilot hole. Mainly because if i dont clean the fluid it will continue to shift liike crap but as soon as I clean it its going to fix it temporarily. could there be a blockage or something in the line and when i clean it, it opens it up some?

There is no crankwalking going on here. I just had it all apart 2 weeks ago and no end play.

 

[clayborn1]

I would check the clutch fork where the slave cylinder pushes against. I have seen this issue before. Also replace the accumulator with a steel braided line. That would take care your problem with your fluid turning colors.

 

[tds]

If you pump the clutch several times, is it easier to shift? IF so there is probably air in the system.