Clutch Pedal Pressure Changes

[spadepro22]

Ok so when I'm driving sometimes I'll go to change gears and the clutch will feel like theres very little pressure and it won't come out of gear until I let up and push it back down. It doesn't stick to the floor, just feels like very little pressure and when I take my foot off it comes up and I'll push it back down and its fine. I've bled the slave cylinder and the master and slave are new OEM(780 miles). Clutch, pp, and flywheel are all ACT with about 5k or so. OEM t.o.b. and its a built Jack's tranny with same mileage as everything else.

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

Check all your lines to make sure theres no hole in them also check your clutch pedal assembly and lastly check your clutch fork a similiar thing just happend to me in my civic the clutch fork had a hole in it and it was very hard to push down and wouldnt go into gear and sometimes i had to push it down twice to get it to get in/out of gear

 

[spadepro22]

Check all your lines to make sure theres no hole in them also check your clutch pedal assembly and lastly check your clutch fork a similiar thing just happend to me in my civic the clutch fork had a hole in it and it was very hard to push down and wouldnt go into gear and sometimes i had to push it down twice to get it to get in/out of gear

I've checked lines and pedal assembly. The pressure feels good( not hard to push down). Feels normal except when this problem I've explained happens.

 

[spadepro22]

Opinions, idea's, anything? Tired not being able to really enjoy the car, thinking about selling.

 

[Mecheng1993]

What method of bleeding did you use?

I find the best results are found by using a hand pump. You'll be surprised how much air comes out with your standard vacuum pump rented from Advanced.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

You could have a small weeping leak somewhere. Check the slave. Have someone push in on it abruptly like you do when you drive. See if you see anything, even something so much as wash of moisture over the bottom of the slave. Also check the master - again while someone is pushing the peddle. What you can't find while the car is sitting may not be apparent until it's under the same conditions as when you're having the problem.

Sounds like a weeping leak somewhere to me.

As for bleeding - I've found the easiest way (not saying anything negative about the above one) is to run a clear line from the slave to a bottle of fluid. Loosen the bleeder valve, press the slave cylinder in as far as it will go by hand (this releases an air pocket at the back of the slave) and then pump the peddle. Air goes out, fluid comes in. Make sure you keep fluid in the reservoir as well.

 

[spadepro22]

I've tried bleeding with the clear line, but there is no way for me to turn the valve with the line on it.

 

[dacowgod]

Be sure the master is adjusted properly... Could have a worn clutch pedal assembly...Also might check endplay on the Crank... Not jumping to conclusions just something worth looking at especially since its a new motor.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I've tried bleeding with the clear line, but there is no way for me to turn the valve with the line on it.

Can't get a small pair of pliers up there? You don't have to crank down on it. You can leave the valve open through the bleeding process until you're ready to seal if off. Close it off just enough with a pair of pliers to ensure that it doesn't leak for the second that it takes to pull the line off and tighten it with the appropriate socket.

Be sure the master is adjusted properly... Could have a worn clutch pedal assembly...Also might check endplay on the Crank... Not jumping to conclusions just something worth looking at especially since its a new motor.

You're going to make him suffer a panic attack.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Can't get a small pair of pliers up there? You don't have to crank down on it. You can leave the valve open through the bleeding process until you're ready to seal if off. Close it off just enough with a pair of pliers to ensure that it doesn't leak for the second that it takes to pull the line off and tighten it with the appropriate socket.



You're going to make him suffer a panic attack.

Pliers are waaaay overkill.

Fingers. Just use your fingers. It will save you a tonne of time if you're fussing around with tools everytime you want to open and close the bleeder.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Pliers are waaaay overkill.

Fingers. Just use your fingers. It will save you a tonne of time if you're fussing around with tools everytime you want to open and close the bleeder.

Not all of us have perfectly working bleeder valves. haha. But yes, If you can get to it and tighten it enough with your fingers that's highly recommended~ Less chance of rounding the valve.

 

[spadepro22]

You're going to make him suffer a panic attack.

I've thought about that too already, just don't want to believe thats what it is. Praying its not, but I'm starting to think it. How do I check end play?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I've thought about that too already, just don't want to believe thats what it is. Praying its not, but I'm starting to think it. How do I check end play?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/97591-how-do-you-check-crankshaft-end-play.html

Google is your friend.

I'd go over the small things before you get your heart all worked up over the worst case. ^^

 

[spadepro22]

That means the tranny has to come out. Aww man!

780 miles, could it really be(just saying)? And I will go over small things.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

That means the tranny has to come out. Aww man!

Again, before you go tossing money and time away make sure that you get everything else out of the way. Something as serious as crankwalk wouldn't act in the way you're describing I don't think. I italicize that because I'm not stating that it is or is not in a definitive manner.

What it sounds like is that while driving, when you clutch, you have either an air pocket or a small leak somewhere that's not allowing the quick application of pressure you're putting on the fluid maintain. Thus why when you press it a second time, you've already built up a bit of pressure with the first pump. So based on that theory, check everything. Make sure your clutch peddle assembly is fine. Make sure your master cylinder rod is adjusted properly. Also bleed the slave again while being absolutely sure to press the slave cylinder in on itself by hand with the bleeder valve open. Hold the slave piston in and don't release it until you close the bleeder valve. I had a dragging issue for the longest until I did this. Rid myself of notchy gears and such.

 

[gusu]

I had the exact same problem when my act 2100 had a spring fail. I could adjust the play and after a few shifts it would need adjusting again.

I learned a lot about the clutch system hoping I could find something other than a clutch failure, but it was all a waste of time.


What would happen is I would adjust the clutch, it would engage fine. Then almost exactly .2 miles every time I would have the pressure go away and the clutch would need adjusting again. It would almost feel like the clutch needing bleeding. What was weird is it felt totally normal for maybe 20% of the engagement, then no pressure at all or very little.

 

[spadepro22]

I have a ss line from over by the fuse box to slave, would a one piece ss line or the line from the master to the place buy the fuse box be worth getting? Would that help maybe? I've heard the hard lines are stronger.

And about adjusting the master, the rod is all the way out, no threads left.

 

[dacowgod]

If the rod is threaded all the way out that is a problem...your relief valve in the master cannot work properly like that...if that is the only way to make the clutch disengage then you have another issue ... Likely pedal assembly, or pivot ball is worn or something to that nature... you should never have to thread the master all the way out..

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

If the rod is threaded all the way out that is a problem...your relief valve in the master cannot work properly like that...if that is the only way to make the clutch disengage then you have another issue ... Likely pedal assembly, or pivot ball is worn or something to that nature... you should never have to thread the master all the way out..

+1

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw&noredirect=1]Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

This may be helpful for you.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Quick question for Kei and Daco, do 1g's have a relief valve in the way that 2g's do? I was always under the impression that it was the 2g master that was sensitive to adjustment and not 1g masters.

But then again this could also be one of my moments where I'm all like wait.. a '93 has a 7 bolt? oh, yeah. duh.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Quick question for Kei and Daco, do 1g's have a relief valve in the way that 2g's do? I was always under the impression that it was the 2g master that was sensitive to adjustment and not 1g masters.

But then again this could also be one of my moments where I'm all like wait.. a '93 has a 7 bolt? oh, yeah. duh.

I'm personally unaware of a difference in the two, but google is being searched like crazy currently. If there is a difference I'd love to verify it.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

"...Only 2Gs have a relief valve in the master cylinder that needs to be uncovered so fluid can go back into the reservoir on the clutch release."

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Either way, proper adjustment is still important.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Awesome~ I just found that thread too~ Good ole' Glen. Haha.

Well then, you can wipe the potentially covered relief valve thing off of the map.