The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G clutch pedal depressed less than half way?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

93AWDDSM

10+ Year Contributor
883
40
Jan 1, 2009
Vancouver, Washington
so here we go once again....

Driving yesterday I pushed the clutch in, shifted gears, no boost at all. Then I came to this light and went to get it into gear and the clutch was all the way down but wouldn't let me get into gear, grinding like a chain saw. Pulled over to side of the road and tried to diagnose in the dark. I did notice my slave was leaking a little but nothing extreme. I then hopped back into the drivers seat and went to push the clutch to see how it felt - I was only able to push the clutch down about less than half way and felt extreme resistance. So, I tried with car off got the clutch to the floor, put it in gear and started it and the car just started moving slightly and i shut it off, almost couldn't get the shifter out of reverse but I did.

1. With the car of the shifter can easily be moved 1-5th gear.
2. The TOB has always been kind of noisy.
3. Unknown clutch, was in the car went bought.
4. never had any grinding or clutch issues until last night.

I haven't pulled it apart yet, but I'm thinking either one or more of the arms on the PP went bye bye, or the TOB just completely destroyed. Looked under at the clutch fork and that seemed to look OK from the outside. Am I correct to assume the issue is most likely one of these two things? :hmm: thanks!

gotta love dsms.....
 
From what you stated there, I would be inclined to think it would be the pressure plate fingers, or the clutch disks springs that have failed.

However, any leaking on a hydraulic system is to much. I would first completely rule out the hydraulics. Inspect the master and slave cylinders, and rebleed the system (using JacksTransmissions instructions). Only once you have verified that is in perfect working order would I consider removing the transmission to inspect the clutch itself.
 
From what you stated there, I would be inclined to think it would be the pressure plate fingers, or the clutch disks springs that have failed.

However, any leaking on a hydraulic system is to much. I would first completely rule out the hydraulics. Inspect the master and slave cylinders, and rebleed the system (using JacksTransmissions instructions). Only once you have verified that is in perfect working order would I consider removing the transmission to inspect the clutch itself.

^This is exactly what you should do OP.
 
I agree, but the leak from the slave has been there already. I've noticed that the TOB has been making a lot of noise lately. I'm pulling the tranny anyways soon - glad this time its FWD LOL!

so my car is super old, has 200k+ miles. I was thinking of just getting a cheap stock clutch kit as its only my daily driver with only 9 lbs of boost, basically stock except FMIC. (This is not going to be a race car or anything at all like that, just my daily)
The type I'm looking at for price wise is called "Luk" and the part number is Luk 05-048 Clutch Kit - advice? Thanks!

EDIT: just did a dsmtuner search and found the answers I needed! thanks
 
Last edited:
sorry to bring this back. figured out the issue. TOB was toast all crunched up. Anyways, got a stock clutch disc/PP and same stock flywheel.

Everything is back together but a new issue, the starter doesn't seem to be doing its job. I can hear the injectors. no crank, no click click. I've checked the fuses and relays so far, cleaned connections on starter and tranny area. still nothing. The starter was fine just 2 weeks ago, just from being out of the car, could it have gone bad? Not sure on next step. Anyone good with electrical? (could there be something phyiscally wrong with the clutch disc/pp? the flywheel wasn't removed) everything was in correct order same as it was taken off so I'm stumped as why it won't start or attempt to turn over now?

thanks
 
got everything figured out. Now, the clutch issue. When the clutch is depressed its smooth up until it almost meets the floor and then there's a extra bump felt. Could this be, because of clutch fork to close to the passenger side? it seems almost normal. I have a few threads left on the master cylinder. At the slave cylinder I can push towards the passenger and feel it almost rubbing against the PP fingers which is most likely not normal.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top