Clutch not disengaging, pedal only comes half way up...

[samvdb89]

Bled correctly, and my clutch pedal will only move half way up after i push it down, i can pull it to even with the brake pedal but it wont return on its own. Thought about shimming the pivot ball but the clutch would still only return half way up.. the adjustment rod is out almost as far as it will go..

Any ideas why the clutch won't disengage? I can start it in gear and it jumps

 

[emerica12124]

what was the reason you bled the clutch?

 

[mikhro]

if the rod is all the way out (towards the master cylinder)....you clutch will not dis-engage correctly, and it will still be pressed against the flywheel.....try doing half to full turns on the rod and drive the car....just a little turn makes a big difference.

I been through this exact problem on one of my DSMs, and "all the way out" is not the answer.....bring the rod in more towards the pedal and away from the firewall.

Also, when the rod is all the way out, it will block the passage for the fluid to go into the reservoir

 

[samvdb89]

Just to check and make sure there was no air in the line from sitting, and trying to figure out if that was the problem with the clutch not disengaging.

I put a new motor in the car, and havent changed any of the clutch setting on the car from when i used to drive it.

 

[mikhro]

did you torque the FW and PP bolts to the correct specs?

 

[samvdb89]

what is the FW and PP? im not up on acronyms sorry.

ha sorry, ya i did

 

[mikhro]

Flywheel and Pressure Plate.....im just trying to get as much info as possible, since you said you installed a new motor

 

[emerica12124]

I heard about rebuilding the clutch assembly. I dont know how it will act if something wears out.

 

[samvdb89]

ya i did all torque specs correctly, never pulled off the slave, but i think the rod may have fell out once when i was putting it back on. i put a used trans in, came with a fork. im just not sure why my pedal is only returning half way..

 

[mikhro]

im assuming the slave is not leaking under the boot.....and how old is your master cylinder?.....you said that before you installed the motor in, the car drove fine with the same clutch pedal adjustments right?

 

[samvdb89]

Ya it drove fine, other than it broke two timing belts, first time wasn't fatal, second was.

can you bleed the master cylinder?

We bled it at the slave, i dont think im leaking any fluid under the boot.

I've been reading different posts but im not sure ### i haven't seen any pics ### they all get deleted.

 

[mikhro]

you can only bleed from the slave, when I had that problem, of the pedal not returning all the way....I adjusted the rod, bled the system, and replaced the bushings....i believe sheptrans.com sells a rebuild kit

Did you also check that spring in the pedal assembly, thats the one that helps return it back

also, in between the slave and the master, there is a little reservoir connected to the trans, it helps the pedal return smoothly, i always delete those on my DSMs with an SS line from the Slave to the Master.

Im not %100 percent sure if once that little metal reservoir goes bad (if it does), that it could cause this

if you are getting good clutch pressure...I would start by bringing the pedal rod back in (towards you) instead of towards the firewall

 

[ziggo0]

OP you need to watch this and do before you start assuming it's anything else. Also this will only work properly if you are maintaining clutch pressure (i.e. no leaks)

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

 

[standard235]

you can only bleed from the slave, when I had that problem, of the pedal not returning all the way....I adjusted the rod, bled the system, and replaced the bushings....i believe sheptrans.com sells a rebuild kit

Did you also check that spring in the pedal assembly, thats the one that helps return it back

also, in between the slave and the master, there is a little reservoir connected to the trans, it helps the pedal return smoothly, i always delete those on my DSMs with an SS line from the Slave to the Master.

Im not %100 percent sure if once that little metal reservoir goes bad (if it does), that it could cause this

if you are getting good clutch pressure...I would start by bringing the pedal rod back in (towards you) instead of towards the firewall

This reservoir on the trans is only on 2g's. My buddy has a N/T 1g that had the slave pop. New master and slave along with a Stainless line, good to go

 

[samvdb89]

re-bled the clutch today, no change.

Don't want to mess with the adjust ment settings ### i know they are where they should be because i haven't even touched anything on the haudralic system since the last time the clutch worked.

My conclusion right now is that i have the wrong clutch fork for my motor in the trans. I replaced the trans with a used one ### my synchros are worn in my old one. i'm guessing this trans came off of a different motor than the 2.0 DOHC, maybe an N/T? I'm not really sure the difference between the trannys but i know they have different clutch forks...

So at this point i've decided to pull off the transmission and check the forks and pivot balls to see if they are the same or different, replace the fork with the one i had in the old trans, and shim the pivot ball for good measure, since it seems to be a recommended procedure when reinstalling the trans.

Opinions? or

 

[91talon27]

I have also seen a collapsed pressure plate cause the same thing to happen.

 

[samvdb89]

That would made sense too, but i doubt my pressure plate collapsed.. but how would i tell just in case?

When i bought the car i had a similar problem and ended up removing the tranny three times before we found the right clutch fork...

 

[ziggo0]

Where the tob fork goes into the tranny that rubber boot can come off, you'll need to unbolt the slave though. Get a good flash light and take a look

 

[samvdb89]

Pretty sure the FORK was the problem, we'll know as soon as i get this trans back on.. man this sucks without another set of hands... Oh well.. at least it's raining

 

[samvdb89]

Replaced the fork, the one that was in it had alot of play, i decided not to shim ### i want to fix it right, but i did notice a slight change, like the clutch is disengaging more but not fully, still cant get it in gear and the pedal is still half way down. i have no more room for adjustment on the pedal, and i just got a new slave in today so we'll see if thats the problem. any more ideas? and to whoever posted the video, i did watch that before..

Any further ideas would be appreciated i know it's hard to diagnose a car without actually being there..

 

[rich3389]

I just bought a 91 with the same problem, I am going to start by adjusting the master cylinder rod...

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Could be your throw out bearing and sleeve. Maybe your housing sleeve is mess up and the throw out bearing isn't pulling back where it should be? Just my .02 cent! Because our clutch systems are push type! Not pull type like the v6 eclipses!

 

[rich3389]

Well I adjusted the clutch today, didnt do anything with the pedal return.
But I did notice that when I pull the pedal all the way back with my hand and then push the pedal down to were it would normally return to(half way), that the pedal doesnt start to push on the master cylinder rod until its at the halfway down point.

So there must be some slack in the pedal assembly?

 

[samvdb89]

That sounds like the EXACT same as mine.

Here's my process i've gone through.. i also found a huge thread i've been trying to read through and i'll post the link.. I'm also gonna try using a "phoenix" tonight instead of bleeding it by pumping it..



Bought my talon a few years ago and it had a clutch issue that the guy couldn't figure out how to fix.. me and my dad replaced the TOB fork and it was fine no problems what so ever, the guy had the wrong fork in.
Now I just finished rebuilding my motor. I bought a USED transmission for fairly cheap, wasn't on a car or anything though just sitting under this canopy the guy had. so i get my motor all put together and in the car... it STARTS!! but won't move because the clutch wont disengage so i can put it in gear. So i pulled off the trans assuming the clutch fork was the problem, the fork i pulled off was very worn and not the same as the fork i pulled off my old transmission.. i was debating on shimming but decided not to as the for was in the middle of the housing where it is supposed to be, throw out bearing also looked good and it was smooth spinning with no play. so i put the trans back on and still wouldn't work, pedal still only returned 50 percent. i put the helper spring on the pedal.. which it NEVER had before, now it returns but i only start getting pressure from the pedal at 50% still.. yes the pedal did not come all the way back up before i removed the trans... then i decided to bleed it again with a mighty vac but the piece that goes over the bleeder was loose and had to be held on with pressure to seal. the fluid that came out was what has been sitting in it and it was dark, but i don't know if that would be from age or a bad master.. i replaced the slave because it was extremely dirty and gummed up and i got a deal on an OEM part. $25. Replaced the slave last night, and filled with new fluid, let it gravity feed with the bleeder open until fluid started coming out and i let it run for a little while i made sure the reservoir was full. then i had someone pump the clutch a few times and hold it, i then opened the bleeder and fluid SHOT out, closed the bleeder and repeated 3 times, no bubbles and fluid was clean..
thought it would be good, so we tried starting it and no luck still had 50% pedal, and clutch not disengaging..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ed-1-9-bleeding-air-floor-stuck-grinding.html

 

[rich3389]

I just did some searching as this is my first 1g, I think our prblem is the pedal assembly is worn and need to be replaced or welded.
search "worn clutch pedal"