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Clutch pedal comes up slow

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ApexVIII

15+ Year Contributor
812
5
Jan 12, 2008
Modesto, California
my clutch petal comes up really slow and my clutch slips im trying to figure what is wron if its the clutch or other parts also.


the clutch seems to want to come up in two parts after i let it out, it comes out about half way while the clutch is sliping then it comes up the rest of the way once it grabs,(if i go WOT or 3/4th gas it slips bad)

at low RPM's it slips under light throttle, but at high, like 4000+ i can go WOT 1st and 2nd gear and i hold pretty well but higher gears i cant give it as much gas

any ideas other then just a new clutch?

Thanks alot!
Derek

oh i forgot to add its a 95 GSX
 
I've seen some stock rubber hoses swell up and not release pressure. Your foot will force the fluid thru, but it has a hard time coming back quickly and the clutch will slip. But if it is released and slips in the higher gears when you go WOT it sounds like more than just that.
 
I had the same problem and drove around with a slipping clutch for a while. Once I determined that the clutch was worn out pretty bad I decided to replace it. I ended up replacing everything just to be safe - master cylinder (rebuild), slave cylinder (rebuild), new fork and fulcrum ball, OEM TOB, I even got rid of the reservoir tank attached to the tranny and bypassed it with an RRE stainless line. All this with proper bleeding and the essentially new hydraulic system feels great. I was so happy once it was all together. The best part is I did it all myself. Of course this is extreme. If I were you and didn't want to spend the money for a new clutch/flywheel, I'd bleed the system. If that doesn't work rebuild the slave. If that doesn't work, rebuild the master. RRE sells the rebuild kits BTW.
 
yea i think i am going to get a new clutch in what clutch do you guys reccomend? i will do a few track days not alot though, some launches what is a cheap one that wont burn up?
 
Spec clutches are excellent

First off go to there website, on the left put in what your car is, then look threw the catalog at how much power you plan to put down...you always want room to grow. The main reason I recommend them is because they can hold power but don't use a monster pressure plate to do it.

SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting

Then once you get the figured out call MAPerformance and they will hook you up, they have good prices on those.

Modern Automotive Performance
 
depending on your HP goals, an ACT 2100 will hold good and not be too bad on the leg for daily driving.
 
Replace the master & slave cylinders as well, and get rid of that fluid reservoir. I run an ACT 2600, with no complaints.
 
Replace or rebuild master and slave cylinders, replace fork and fulcrum, replace thow-out bearing (USE OEM!), and bypass the fluid reservoir with a SS clutch line. If you don't replace the fork/fulcrum you could have disengagment problems or the fork could break due to higher loads. I'm running an XTD clutch/flywheel setup and it holds anything I throw at it.
 
I also run the 2600 with a sprung hub and don't have any complaints. Yeah, its not the best in bumper to bumper traffic, but I like the feel of it. I also ran a SS braided line to get rid of the accumulator. I had to shim my ball/fork, just an FYI, but I also changed to a Fidanza lightwieght flywheel.
 
I also run the 2600 with a sprung hub and don't have any complaints. Yeah, its not the best in bumper to bumper traffic, but I like the feel of it. I also ran a SS braided line to get rid of the accumulator. I had to shim my ball/fork, just an FYI, but I also changed to a Fidanza lightwieght flywheel.

Just wondering, why did you have to shim it? Im guessing youre talking about your pivot ball, did you reuse the old one?
 
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