2G Clutch Fork has no play. Tob touches the fingers and Fork touches PP. Clutch slipping

[MattiaFTW]

So i bought the clutch, SS PP and TZ/B disk. Installed everything correctly and clutch felt great. Pedal feel was great, bite point was about 2/3 cm (1 inch) off the ground and really obvious. After 400/500 Km (300 miles) the pedal started to feel more mushy, bit point came up around 2/3 inches. I read that during break in period it will feel different, so didn't think much of it. But after 800km (500 miles) i went on the highway and had to give a little more gas. Around 15% TPS , 0.5 bar (7psi) 4k rpm, it started to slip. I know the break in period was not done yet, but was most likely not even 150/200 ft/lb. Confused I continued to break in the clutch. Now I have around 1300km (800miles) and it again happened.

I think found the issue, the clutch fork does not disengage properly. My PP touches the fork and there is no play in the fork left to right, even with the slave cylinder removed. Now everytime when the clutch is depressed i hear an horrible grinding noise. Which is obviously the fork hitting the PP. Have no clue why this is happening now and would like to know how this is possible when everything is new. Im using a new act streetlight flywheel with the new SBC clutch kit, using a new CC forged fork, Not shimmed ( plastic shim removed before installing). I did he installation myself and i am 99.9% sure it is correct. Done it multiple times and am a rally mechanic. Do anyone have any explanation why the fork is no much forward or the PP so much backwards?

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Thanks in advance

Mattia

 

[dwb]

What car is this?
Are all your trans bolts tight? Did you get the CW bolt in there (the one on the back side that feeds from the block into the trans)?
What TO bearing are you using?

 

[pauleyman]

Is there a shim on the fork? Have you checked crank endplay? Are the hydraulics still self adjusting and not over adjusted? Did you verify flywheel step height? Are you sure you have the correct master and more importantly slave cylinder?

 

[MattiaFTW]

What car is this?
Are all your trans bolts tight? Did you get the CW bolt in there (the one on the back side that feeds from the block into the trans)?
What TO bearing are you using?

All trans bolts are torqued

Got the CW bolt also attached.

TOB is OEM mitsu

There was a plastic shim on the pivot ball was removed. Are there shim somewhere on a fork? The only thing I did was attach the little pivot ball clip.

Not checked crank endplay, but car was running great until the previous clutch lost a spring. Engine was fully re-built not even 5k miles ago

Did not check the step height, but that shouldn't matter as the pp height won't change + I hope that a new product gets delivered within spec.

Got exedy oem replacements for both.
Parts nmbr
EXEDYMC401
EXEDYSC581

 

[pauleyman]

All trans bolts are torqued

Got the CW bolt also attached.

TOB is OEM mitsu

There was a plastic shim on the pivot ball was removed. Are there shim somewhere on a fork? The only thing I did was attach the little pivot ball clip.

Not checked crank endplay, but car was running great until the previous clutch lost a spring. Engine was fully re-built not even 5k miles ago

Did not check the step height, but that shouldn't matter as the pp height won't change + I hope that a new product gets delivered within spec.

It does matter. If step is shallow the fingers are farther out. This pivots the fork towards the pressure plate. You are correct the body of the plate doesnt move but the position of the fork does relative to finger/tob position.

Got exedy oem replacements for both.
Parts nmbr
EXEDYMC401
EXEDYSC581

 

[MattiaFTW]

Wil that be such a big difference from factory? I will drop the tranny the end of the month, but it is strange that all factory parts do not fit. Expected different from "quality" brands.

 

[dwb]

So what car are you working on?
Almost sounds like your pressure plate bolts or FW bolts have come loose. Something is pushing the PP further right than it should be which is causing your fork to drag.

 

[MattiaFTW]

It my daily. But running it pretty hard so it breaks down sometimes. Also pretty heavily modified with parts that are not that common in the dsm world.(As far as I am aware)

That's also something that I was thinking about. Only thing I could think of is that the OEM flywheel bolts are not in perfect condition and maybe stretching. But all is torqued to spec and if I'm not wrong they should not stretch.

 

[dwb]

That's awesome you daily a DSM! I do too and it can definitely be a challenge sometimes. Not for the faint of heart, that's for sure.
But what year, trim, mods? A vehicle profile helps a lot: https://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/add

You should be able to rotate the engine and inspect each PP bolt through the fork cutout. You also can remove the flywheel inspection cover and see if anything looks odd from there.

 

[bastarddsm]

The fork is rubbing the pressure plate. Time to take it apart and inspect whats broken.

 

[MattiaFTW]

Solved. Took everything off. Pivot ball bolt came loose and unscrewed itself until it squeezed the fork against the pp. Clutch is still slipping so no issue on that yet

 

[pauleyman]

Interesting. I've never had one back out and I don't locktite them.

 

[MattiaFTW]

Torqued it to spec also without locktite, but with no luck. Must say that BS are deleted and everything is PU, so the car is vibrating a lott