Clutch Evaluation/Review Please. Pics!

[project_tsi]

The Drivetrain is not my highest area of knowledge so please review the state of my clutch please. I don't know really what to look for. It is a 6month old ACT 2100. I'm wanting to know whether or not it needs replaced or if you think it will take another year of street/strip use. Thanks for the help. -Dan

 

[Morphius]

Disk: Looks good. It resembles the disk on my 2600 after 50K miles.

Pressure plate: Disk side looks pretty good. Shows minimal hot spots. It would appear like you don't slip the clutch too much. I've seen pp's that are 100 times worse. TOB side, looks like the fingers have a good amount of wear due to your TOB. I'd suspect victim of a shimmed pivot ball and/or a longer slave rod. That adjustment can cause the TOB to constantly ride on the pp fingers. This will also cause premature TOB failure.

Flywheel. Like the pp, minimal heat and looks OK.


I'd say resuse it.

 

[project_tsi]

Thank you for the review of my clutch. Unlike your act w/ 50k on it, this one only has approx 6k on it. Also, is can you tell me any more from these pics?

 

[92awddsm]

I agree, I wouldnt be scared to reuse it. Make sure you take a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and remove the glaze from the pp and flywheel before you reinstall it. Usually, I just lightly scuff scuff them with a da sander.

By the looks of the bellhousing, you might have a rear main seal leaking slightly.

 

[Mike1992]

Clutch looks reusable to me also, like noted the pressure plate fingers seem to show excessive wear from the TOB for the mileage. I'd find that oil leak and fix it ASAP.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Looks like normal wear to me. Still have some life left in that disk. Just watch those springs!

 

[Morphius]

Thank you for the review of my clutch. Unlike your act w/ 50k on it, this one only has approx 6k on it. Also, is can you tell me any more from these pics?

Given the wear on the pp fingers, you know the TOB has been doing overtime. I'd suggest replacing the TOB to be safe. Save yourself some headaches later.

 

[project_tsi]

Given the wear on the pp fingers, you know the TOB has been doing overtime. I'd suggest replacing the TOB to be safe. Save yourself some headaches later.

Thank you. I will replace the TOB. However, once again stating that the drivetrain is one of my weaker subjects, what can I do to stop this from happening again? I heard by shimming the pivot ball w/ a 1.5-2.0mm washer, it will relieve the problem. Is this correct?

 

[92awddsm]

Thank you. I will replace the TOB. However, once again stating that the drivetrain is one of my weaker subjects, what can I do to stop this from happening again? I heard by shimming the pivot ball w/ a 1.5-2.0mm washer, it will relieve the problem. Is this correct?

Shimming the pivot ball will make it worse. Any time you shim the pivot, use an extended slave rod, or extended master cylinder rod, it usually just moves the tob closer to the pp fingers. In some cases, it will cause the tob to ride on the pp all the time. In a situation like that, you will prematurely wear out the tob and/or pp. If the clutch engages/disengages properly without any mods to the system leave it like that. Dont make any changes unless it is just to replace the consumables with new oem parts(pivot ball, clutch fork, tob, master cylinder, slave cylinder)

 

[project_tsi]

Shimming the pivot ball will make it worse. Any time you shim the pivot, use an extended slave rod, or extended master cylinder rod, it usually just moves the tob closer to the pp fingers. In some cases, it will cause the tob to ride on the pp all the time. In a situation like that, you will prematurely wear out the tob and/or pp. If the clutch engages/disengages properly without any mods to the system leave it like that. Dont make any changes unless it is just to replace the consumables with new oem parts(pivot ball, clutch fork, tob, master cylinder, slave cylinder)

Thank you again! By replacing some of the oem parts, would that possibly help the situation? And if so, which one(s) would help?

 

[Dream On]

When we took off my stock clutch disc, it didn't have any of that material on the outer ring, just shiny rivets.

 

[ITSME4G63]

If you already have it off, Youre ###### better off repalcing the disc so that you wont have to anytime soon in the future, and clean out that inner bellhousing for christs sake!

 

[Morphius]

Shimming the pivot ball will make it worse. Any time you shim the pivot, use an extended slave rod, or extended master cylinder rod, it usually just moves the tob closer to the pp fingers. In some cases, it will cause the tob to ride on the pp all the time. In a situation like that, you will prematurely wear out the tob and/or pp. If the clutch engages/disengages properly without any mods to the system leave it like that. Dont make any changes unless it is just to replace the consumables with new oem parts(pivot ball, clutch fork, tob, master cylinder, slave cylinder)

True.

...... what can I do to stop this from happening again?

I'd start first with checking the clutch pedal assembly, typical failure point which will add excessive tolerance. Closly inspect the pivot ball and clutch fork for wear, replace as needed. Inspect the hydraulic clutch system for leakage or damage. If even after those fixes, it still doesn't release right and you're leaning towards an extended slave rod, I'd install a 1g AWD 3000gt slave. The one for the 5spd, not six spd. It will bolt up, only difference is the holes in the slave aren't threaded like the DSM slave. It's got a smaller bore which will create greater travel at the release fork, which is what you ultimately want. Yet, when you release the clutch pedal the TOB will return to the intended design point on the quill (quill = cylinder that the input shaft protrudes through and the TOB rides on.)

 

[sephion]

I was just curious if the 1gen AWD 5spd 3000gt slave cylinder will work on both the 2wd and AWD dsm's. I know that the AWD dsm slave cylinder won't fit on the 2WD dsm's (the bleeder hits the front motor mount).