check out my alignment numbers

[DiamondStarM]

I just had an alignment on my 97 TSi FWD that was dropped on eibach springs with gab shocks and a ingalls front camber kit and homemade rear. The guy said the computer showed no 17" wheels for a 97 talon and thats what I have even though they are aftermarket, should that matter? Also I see the specified range but Im curious if everything is looking like its close or at the right end of the spectrum. The rear toe is way out, they said the bolts were froze up. Give me some input on how good or bad this print out looks. Thanks

 

[jtmcinder]

If your rear toe-arms are really seized, replace them. Your tires won't last 100 miles with almost a degree of total rear toe out.

- Jtoby

 

[wret]

I just had an alignment on my 97 TSi FWD that was dropped on eibach springs with gab shocks and a ingalls front camber kit and homemade rear. The guy said the computer showed no 17" wheels for a 97 talon and thats what I have even though they are aftermarket, should that matter? Also I see the specified range but Im curious if everything is looking like its close or at the right end of the spectrum. The rear toe is way out, they said the bolts were froze up. Give me some input on how good or bad this print out looks. Thanks

The wheel size doesn't affect your alignment settings or specs. If you are trying to optimize tire wear for street driving you are fine with factory specs. If you are interested in better handling performance then you should read our handling FAQ's. It's not too late: it looks like you'll be making another trip to the alignment shop.

 

[DiamondStarM]

If your rear toe-arms are really seized, replace them. Your tires won't last 100 miles with almost a degree of total rear toe out.

- Jtoby

Can someone post a picture and circle the bolt that would be frozen, Id like to try to heat it and pb blaster it before getting into a bigger project like replacing the whole arm.

 

[wret]

Can someone post a picture and circle the bolt that would be frozen, Id like to try to heat it and pb blaster it before getting into a bigger project like replacing the whole arm.

Get on your belly below the rear bumper and follow the toe control arm (that's the rearmost control arm) to its mounting position at the frame. There is a large heavily corroded bolt there with markings sometimes confused with an ancient Aztec calendar.

 

[DiamondStarM]

Thanks for the picrure. Thats the bolt I thought it was. The alignment tech said it was froze and my rear toe could not be adjusted. I was able to free the bolt but I dont understand how the adjustment works. I dont plan to adjust it myself, I just want to understand it so when I talk to the guy again we can settle this mess. My bolt wasnt rusty or bad looking at all but the part between it didnt look the best. He said Id need new arms but Im thinking maybe just this rusty part can be changed out. Is that possible? Thanks for all the help.

 

[DiamondStarM]

Incase someone comes back to this later, the answer is no. You cannot just get the bushing, you must order the whole arm from the dealership. Also if you are getting the arm because you have to cut it out make sure you get the bolt as well, for some reason the "assembly" doesn't include it. It is part number MB911314

 

[bigjdog84]

You probably don't need the whole assembly, more than likely its not stuck. You just need to get it up on a lift and use some muscle w/a big wrench to get some leverage. I don't udnerstand if you payed for an alignment or if you payed for them to put it on the rack and get some #'s, because they didn't do jack shit.

 

[DiamondStarM]

If you search around you will notice its a big problem that alot of dsms have but it gets noticed after lowering the car because the toe if affected. I think it was jtoby that said he attacked his with heat, cold, vibration, and everything else and still had to cut it, so I skipped the bull and cut it off. The alingment shop told be they would put the arms on and finish the alignment but I told them Id rather put the arms on and they still offered to adjust it for free afterwards.

 

[jtmcinder]

As has been said before, what happens is the bolt rust-welds to the inner sleeve of the bushing. Sometimes you can break it free, but more often the rubber bushing rips first. When you get to this point, be sure to order new bolts when you order the new toe-arms. And be ready for the joys of getting the stock bolt out; it will probably have to be cut.

- Jtoby

 

[97GS-TSpyder]

energy suspension doesnt have a new bushing for that?

 

[Nanan]

They do, I have a full Energysuspension setup.

 

[97GS-TSpyder]

so why did he buy the arm again if there is just hte bushign avaliable?

 

[ahaidet]

Not 100% sure but if its the same on a 2g, but I just went through the whole nighmare of cutting out the old control arms on my 1G AWD. The reason you have to cut the whole arm off is because of clearance for the cutter, good luck getting any kind of cutter in there to cut the bolt off with it in place. I basically cut the end of the arm off then could get in there with a 9"!!!! angle grinder to cut the bolt off and it was still a very tight fit (had to be real careful not to cut into the rear subframe assembly. I tried getting a sawzall in there with a long blade, but the bolt is hardened (obviously if its holding the rear control arm on the car) and I couldn't make a dent only way to cut hardened bolts is with a grinder or a torch.

Moral of the story...

ANTISIEZE IS YOUR FRIEND.. drench everything everywhere in it!!! so far because of corrosion because I live in blasted Ohio, I have had to get a new front steering knuckle/ hub because the front axle splines were rust welded in the hub and could not be pressed out with 20+ tons of force on a hydraulic press, 2 broken wheel studs on the rear (rusted badly), new rear trailing arms both rust welded in place and damn rear control arms as well but there was enough room to cut it free without damaging the arm itself.. I now have energy suspension rear bushings as well and performed the active toe elimination (car is getting aligned finally today!!!!) The car has little rust on it, tiny spot on rear fender, under the car it looks clean and rust free, however these items seem to like to rust even if it is not obvious. USE ANTISIEZE ITS CHEAP AND IT WORKS!!

 

[Slow99x]

Your caster setting is almost the same as someone asking a smilar quetion on another thread. Your car is going to drift to the right due to the high caster on the right side compared to the left. Are you people hitting stuff with you right front wheel only or what"s going on?!

 

[jtmcinder]

Your car is going to drift to the right due to the high caster on the right side compared to the left.

No. Caster causes push. If caster is higher on the right, then the car will track to the left.

Are you people hitting stuff with you right front wheel only or what"s going on?!

You need to search. As has been posted many time, 97+ cars have more right caster from the factory, because the compression-arm bushing on the left side is flipped. They did this to make the car track straight on roads with high centers.

- Jtoby

 

[TealTalon]

I hate to grave dig an old thread, but doing a search everyone points back to this thread on replacing the toe arm, so I figured I would post here.



In this illustration ( http://tinyurl.com/w7ysk same on all online parts dealers I have looked at) I see the arm and bushing are numbers 5 and 6. I don't see the toe adjusting bolt or any of it's parts listed. Where do you get it? Does it come with the arm or the bushing and that's why it's not listed? Am I missing something very obvious here?

Looking at this article ( http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205503 ) lists it as a separate special order part, but of course that part number in a search brings up nothing.


If this is such a common problem why isn't there a kit or something available from any of our favorite online dealers containing everything you need to replace?

 

[TealTalon]

nothing worse than people who pose a question when you are doing a search, get an answer, and don't share it.

Yes it is a separate part. The plate, eccentric bolt, nut, and toe arm are all separate pieces and JNZtuning can get it all for about $40 a side.

 

[chris712vt]

Haha, sorry to bring back such and old thread, but at least I searched!

I lowered my car on H&Rs and AGXs. Had it aligned, I was told verbally by the young guy doing the alignment that it was back in spec and good to go. 4 months later my tires wore so bad the insides got down to the steel banding or whatever. So I went back to see why my toe obviously wasn't fixed. Turns out my rear toe is over a full degree off on both sides! There was a note in my file that my eccentric bolts could not be adjusted. I was just never told that...

So anyway this time I got their head technician working with me and he explained what the problem was, and now they're going to realign it for free and all after what happened back in April. My eccentric bolt is seized to the bushing and its sleeve. You can rotate the eccentric bolt with a lot of force, but as soon as you release it it twists right back to the way it was. So I need to replace the bolt AND the bushings.

You cannot just get the bushing, you must order the whole arm from the dealership.

energy suspension doesnt have a new bushing for that?

They do, I have a full Energysuspension setup.

I have checked with the dealer, I can get the eccentric bolts for like $10 each. However they won't sell the bushings without the whole toe control arm, which is over a hundred some dollars per side.

I looked at Energy Suspension and they have a "rear control arm bushings" kit for $63. If I order this am I just going to end up with the bushings for the upper control arm, or will it come with the rear toe control arm eccentric bolt bushings and ball joint bushings as well?

Thank you anyone for your help.

 

[wret]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205503
No, the ES kit will not have this bushing.

 

[chris712vt]

Thanks Wret, good article.

I'm still hoping I don't have to replace everything with OEM parts though... I just got off the phone with the dealership and here is a cost breakdown:

Toe-control arm + bushings + ball joint: $75 each
Eccentric bolt: ~$9 each
Plate: ~$5 each
Washer: ~$1 each
Nut: ~$4 each

So that's approximately $190 to replace the whole assembly on both sides with OEM parts.

Is there any other option? Where can I order these from online that's cheaper? Are there any better aftermarket replacements that would cost the same or even less than OEM?

 

[DiamondStarM]

mine was about 65 per side I think, I ordered from one of the dealerships through their online site but I cant remember which one, search around and youll get a good price, some even offer a discount if you mention club dsm or dsmtuners

 

[wret]

mitsubishiparts.com has them listed for $15.83. Don't know why they are so much cheaper than GST / AWD arms.