jp171
20+ Year Contributor
- 758
- 1
- Apr 6, 2003
-
Oakland,
California
I've been here a while, but my car's basically stock and this is an issue with unmodified parts. That's why I'm posting this in the newbie section. I drive a 1990 TSi AWD with only an ACT 2100, K&N drop-in, free aircan mods, crushed BOV, and KYB GR2 struts.
Symptoms:
1. Vehicle does not hold charge. We've been driving it off the battery once a week or so to keep the powertrain from seizing up. Until a month or so ago, we were able to drive it until we drained the battery.
2. Now it won't start, when you try to start it, it just cranks and won't turn over. once in a while, when you let go of the key after it wont start, it sort of clicks/grinds very quickly for a few seconds.
3. For a few months before the charging problem surfaced, and every time it's been driven since, the boost limit has fluctuated wildly between the stock setting and what my seat-of-the-pants dyno says is about half of the stock boost setting. It feel like fuel cut (as experienced in other people's cars), but there's no way in hell such an unmodded car should be experiencing fuel cut. Therefore, I'm guessing the boost is being limited.
Things we've done to attempt repair:
1. Purchased new Duralast Gold battery from Autozone. It's been repeatedly tested as being good as new by Autozone, two competitors, and a couple shops.
2. Purchased "new" (remanufactured) alternator from Autozone. This has also been tested as being good as new by Autozone, the same two competitors, and the same couple shops.
3. ECU removed, disassembled and visually inspected by myself and my brother for leaking capacitators. We see none, but we're no experts.
4. Battery cables and nearby wiring checked. No shorts, cuts or holes in insulation found.
Anyone got any theories? Ideas?
When responding, please keep in mind that I make $6/hour, and I'm limited by bills. So please don't tell me to have it towed by a Range Rover to some megabucks specialty shop. If I could afford to, I'd just take it to Buschur, since they do excellent work at fair prices, but I can't even afford that.
Symptoms:
1. Vehicle does not hold charge. We've been driving it off the battery once a week or so to keep the powertrain from seizing up. Until a month or so ago, we were able to drive it until we drained the battery.
2. Now it won't start, when you try to start it, it just cranks and won't turn over. once in a while, when you let go of the key after it wont start, it sort of clicks/grinds very quickly for a few seconds.
3. For a few months before the charging problem surfaced, and every time it's been driven since, the boost limit has fluctuated wildly between the stock setting and what my seat-of-the-pants dyno says is about half of the stock boost setting. It feel like fuel cut (as experienced in other people's cars), but there's no way in hell such an unmodded car should be experiencing fuel cut. Therefore, I'm guessing the boost is being limited.
Things we've done to attempt repair:
1. Purchased new Duralast Gold battery from Autozone. It's been repeatedly tested as being good as new by Autozone, two competitors, and a couple shops.
2. Purchased "new" (remanufactured) alternator from Autozone. This has also been tested as being good as new by Autozone, the same two competitors, and the same couple shops.
3. ECU removed, disassembled and visually inspected by myself and my brother for leaking capacitators. We see none, but we're no experts.
4. Battery cables and nearby wiring checked. No shorts, cuts or holes in insulation found.
Anyone got any theories? Ideas?
When responding, please keep in mind that I make $6/hour, and I'm limited by bills. So please don't tell me to have it towed by a Range Rover to some megabucks specialty shop. If I could afford to, I'd just take it to Buschur, since they do excellent work at fair prices, but I can't even afford that.
