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changing the oil

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MyEclipse5

20+ Year Contributor
2,737
1
Oct 2, 2002
Normal, Illinois
I've been thinking, and prolly the easiest thing and the first thing most fo you guys learn to do is change your own iol. How do i go about doing this? (like i said, don't laugh)
 
Good point- I skipped over because it was too obvious, and in my thirty years of wrenching I've still not found a gasket stuck on the motor. Who knows.

I like that drain plug, but what's wrong with your oil leak? Has it failed? Your exhaust isn't properly coated with burned oil.
 
I was just wondering how hard it is to change your own oil? I have never done it before but was thinking that I would like to simply because I want to do more work on my car and need to gain the experience. Do you need any special tools or cleaners? Does just draining the oil clean everything out or should I add something?
 
wow


anyways, i guess i can tell ya

1. get a drain pan. place it under the drain plug on the oil pan.
2. take out drain plug. wait for it to stop draining
3. take off oil filter
4. dip finger in oil and smear oil on the gasket of the new oil filter
5. put on new oil filter, don't over tighten it, just use your hands
6. put drain plug back in
7. fill with oil


I recommend you pick up a Haynes manual :thumb:
 
Dont let anyone give you shit. You have to start somewere. It has already been outlined fairly well. just make sure you have the car supported well and that you give it enough time to drain as much out as possible. From there it is preaty easy to do. Also, I like to let the car sit over night and change the oil in the morning. That way it isnt hot and wont burn you, and ALL the oil has drianed into the pan so you will get the most out.

Michael
:talon: :laser:
 
I was pretty much wondering whether or not just letting the oil drain out will also remove any crap in the engine that got in in between changes. Does it or not? Is there a way to flush the engine to remove the "crap"?
 
slider85 said:
I was pretty much wondering whether or not just letting the oil drain out will also remove any crap in the engine that got in in between changes. Does it or not? Is there a way to flush the engine to remove the "crap"?

Most of the "crap" gets caught in the filter. There really isnt way to clean it out. Just change it and it will be ok.

Michael
:talon: :laser:
 
On a 2G, the bolt is 16mm

Also, it's nice to have a creeper (ahhh). And when you take the oil drain bolt out, the oil won't come straight down, it will shoot out 45 degree angle style :)

(I always forget this and the oil goes whoosing on to the floor).

And to get the 'crap' out, I like to have the engine nice and warm, put on some glove then take off the bolt. There's 'engine flush' stuff available if you want, but I don't think you need them unless it's been a LONG time between oil changes.

And put 10% Lucas Oil with your regular oil :) (Plug!) I think that stuff is great, reduces lifter tick, nice shiny top end, I dunno, try it.
 
(Copied from my post at: http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1001426#post1001426 )

I change my own oil also. It's the only way to know that it's done right and it gives you a sense of closeness with your car (I really love my car).

The best thing you can do if you are changing your own oil is to buy one of those FRAM Sure Drain oil plugs. I bought one and I don't know how I lived without it before. It makes changing your oil a snap (no more looking for the right socket or adjusting the wrench that slipped off causing you to smash your finger (@#%$ that hurts!)). Just make sure that you look up your specific plug thread size because they differed I think three times with the 2g's alone. The plug works kind of like the valve on your tires. I know this thread wasn't going anywhere but I think that this is one of the most valuable maintenance modifications that money can buy.

The FRAM plug doesn't hang down any further than the normal plug (maybe a few mm) but it is just a regular plug with a valve in it and a dust cover. The oil pan still hangs lower.

30263Dsc00771.jpg
 
It's quite easy.

I did it for my first time yesterday, and also changed my alternator. I would recommend you put some newspapers on the floor under the car, just in case it spills out of the drain pan. Wear a pair of latex gloves when you take off the drain plug, that will keep you from burning yourself, and then you won't have oily hands. I drive the car for like 5-10 minutes before I do it, hot oil drains out much quicker and more completely than cold oil. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS. I can't stress that enough, they're only $15 at Sears, and it's the best insurance you can buy yourself when working under the car. Block the rear tires with something just incase your e-brake doesn't hold. And make sure you remove the oil filler cap BEFORE you drain the oil. It's just like pouring gas from a gas can, it goes quicker and more completely if you vent it. You might need a larger ratchet or breaker bar to remove the drain bolt, and be very careful not to overtighten the drain bolt. When you remove the oil filter, don't be right under it, and put the drain pan under it. You should also lower the car before removing the filter. Clean the area off that the filter screws onto before you put the new one on. As mentioned, oil up the gasket then tighten it till the gasket touches the surface, then tighten another 3/4 to a full turn. A funnel helps. I used that engine restorer suff that you can buy at an auto parts store, it's in a tin can. I hear it works great for older cars (mine has 165k miles). You might also consider getting some fuel injector cleaner that you add to a full tank of gas. I think that covers it. Just be sure to right down your mileage after the change so you know when 3,000 miles will be. Rememver, dispose the old oil properly, by taking it to a place that accepts old oil.

Here is a step by step:

1) Warm engine to opperating temp.
2) Remove oil filler cap.
3) Jack up car a support on jack stands.
4) Put drain pan under drain bolt (and a little behind too), and remove drain bolt.
5) Allow to drain a good 25-30 mintues, or till it stops dripping, clean off area and replace drain bolt.
6) Put the drain pan under the oil filter and lower the car.
7) Remove oil filter, and quickly tilt up to keep it from dripping.
8) Clean off the area the filter connects to.
9) Oil up new filter gasket and install.
10) Fill the engine with 3 quarts of your favorite oil.
11) Run the engine and check for leaks.
12) Allow the engine to cool down, then check the oil level.
13) Add as much oil as needed to make the oil level reach the top mark (It takes 1 quart to go from the bottom mark to the top).
14) Periodically check the engine oil level for the next few days and add more oil if needed, and check for any leaks.
15) Smile :D You've just changed your oil.

Hope this helps.
Tamer
 
Kinda bringing an old thread back.
ive done alot of oil changes on other cars but my first with a laser rs-t.
so im filling up my new oil, i usually fill it to the max oil level line then start it for a min.(i think about 3quarts). i checked the oil and the level was way down, like below the low line.
it didnt take much to bring it up to the max level but did give me a bit of a scare.
im used to it only going down a small amount.

my question is could i have done any damage to my engine?
how much oil does a turbo dsm take, can i add it all in one go without doing damage?

thanks
Dave
 
I was pretty much wondering whether or not just letting the oil drain out will also remove any crap in the engine that got in in between changes. Does it or not? Is there a way to flush the engine to remove the "crap"?

if you want to spend the extra time you could use three and a half quarts of oil and one quart of ATF since there are so many cleaning additives it will cut :beatentodeath: through that crud it works, i did it to my 3000gt vr4 and a bunch of crud came out after wards making it nice and clean :D
 
Kinda bringing an old thread back.
ive done alot of oil changes on other cars but my first with a laser rs-t.
so im filling up my new oil, i usually fill it to the max oil level line then start it for a min.(i think about 3quarts). i checked the oil and the level was way down, like below the low line.
it didnt take much to bring it up to the max level but did give me a bit of a scare.
im used to it only going down a small amount.

my question is could i have done any damage to my engine?
how much oil does a turbo dsm take, can i add it all in one go without doing damage?

thanks
Dave

a turbo dsm takes 4.5 quarts but start at four and then start it and check it you should have to add half a quart then you'll be fine and dandy, but as long as you had oil in the engine you'll be fine ive seen cars go with no oil and then the techs that i worked with would turn the engine off as soon as i asked "did you add oil?" with no damage just.. dont try it :sneaky:
 
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