CEL Doesn't turn on anymore

[iguanahotsauce]

So for the past two weeks I have been attempting to figure out why my talon will not start. I was having issues with it running rich and I was getting horrible gas mileage. So after changing a few parts I thought I would reset the ECU and see if that would fix any problems. But after resetting the ECU I tried to start the car and now it wont run. It starts and runs for a couple seconds at about 2500 rpms. Then it bogs down and dies. It will do it over and over, every time I try and start it. I have also noticed that the CEL was no longer turning on for 5 seconds when I moved the key to the on position. So I pulled the ECU and checked it and it had a pretty bad smell to it and it had quite a bit of leakage. I am currently working on cleaning it up but I didn't notice any damage to the board just a lot of leakage. Is this problem I am having something that would happen if my ECU was bad? Also I have been searching the junkyards around here trying to find a replacement but have had no luck, is there a place that I could send it to have it repaired? Or does someone have a ECU that's working that they would be willing to sell?

 

[Bud92gsx]

HAve you checked the bulb?

 

[And_44]

If your interested I have a 1990 5speed, EPROM ecu for sale? For it to work in a 1992 would just have to swap 2 wires.

Ecu was professional rebuilt, cleaned, recapped,and socketed by ECMlink this Feburary. Bench tested good and hasnt seen any time in a car since getting it back. Sold car before it got back.

I'm up in Everett, Wa. Hit me up by text or call at (425)931-9868 or can just shoot me a PM here. I check many times a day.

 

[V12 Killa]

Check the bulb like Bud said and pull the codes if any show up to help you steer you the right way. Running rich and horrible mpg sounds might be a bad front o2

 

[And_44]

Course check your CEL light.

But a leaking capacitor(s) will cause all types of havoc. You've already said that your leaking so repairing/replacing the ECU should be obvious. Capacitors are there for a reason filled with electrolyte for a reason.

If you have access to a voltmeter test what you can in accordance with your manual.

A burned out bulb will not cause your car not to start and if it has been on for a long time its probally burnt out.

A bad ECU will make the light not light up or wil make it stay on all the time.

If I remember right from the start up process when turning the key to start is that the ECU recieves a constant 12v supply when off to store info, that power supply is supplied from a seperate wire. When the key is turned on the ECU then activate your MPI relay turning on the fuel pump and turning the starter at the same time switching to a different 12v power supply. If your leaking capacitors hit the right goal this process is inturupted.

This may be a short version but believe it is pretty accurate.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

I haven't had a chance to check the bulb yet because I am out of town. But I will when I get back on monday. I know the bulb used to work because when I got the car a few months ago it would come one. Another thing is when I tried to pull codes with an analog voltmeter I got nothing from pins 1 and 12 of the test connector.

Running rich and horrible mpg sounds might be a bad front o2

That's what I thought but I checked it back while the talon was still running. When the car was hot the front o2 was cycling like it is supposed to so I don't think it's bad

 

[iguanahotsauce]

So I just got back but I'm not sure how to check the cel to see if it works.

 

[Ryan4dc]

I read the title and first thought was that the cel gave up. Haha.

I'm sure the leaking caps in the ecu has something to do with why the cel won't turn on anymore. You can "borrow" another ecu or buy another one. There are places you can send the ecu to be repaired but don't know of any at the top of my head. With checking the bulb, I would just pull the cluster and see if there is a reference signal when cel request should be requested. Aka, voltage to turn on the bulb.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

Yeah I figured my ECU was dead. I have been checking the local junkyards and haven't been able to find one for an automatic transmission. But today I went out and checked the stock boost gauge because I read it's supposed to go to 0 when you turn the key to the on position and mine does. So what I am wondering is is there something else that could be causing me to have this problem that's not the ECU?