The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

CEL and Surging

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

adrikunecke

Probationary Member
11
0
Jul 17, 2012
Puyallup, Washington
Okay, so I really don't know a whole lot about this car. My mom went out to buy a car for her to get to work with and she came home with this beast. Now I have been stuck working on it because it hasn't ran right since she got it.

The first problem was the dip stick was giving the engine a nice oil bath, fixed that. Then the alternator went out because of said oil baths, fixed that. One of my moms friends came in a redid ALL of the vaccum lines back to factory standards, whcih I have been told is a bad thing.

Now it's pulling P0125 & P0325, and the idle surges all the way up to 4500 and can bounce back down to 2000 RPMS. Plus it idles ridiculously rough.

I'll keep looking through here, but any ideas would be nice =]
 
Sounds like a vacuum leak, check all vacuum lines, especially the ones he changed since it happened after a vacuum repair. You can listen for the leak, or take a can of brake clean or starting fluid and spray around the intake manifold, if the engine idles up anywhere in particualr then you have found the area it is leaking to help you pinpoint. also make sure all connectors are in place, TPS in particular and MAF.
 
Also if you check all the vaccum lines for leaks and it isnt it, it may be your throttle body. They have what is called shaft seals that go bad and basically cause a vaccum leak.
 
Okay... this car is making me want to rip my hair out!!

Now the turbo is lagging and the engine slams around when you are starting out in a gear (like taking off and cursing in 2nd or 3rd in lower rpms) After driving it for an hour or so it threw ANOTHER code, P0505..... IAC valve system fault, but then below it on the print out from the store it said that it could also be a dirty throttle body.

Since I finally had enough people to tell my mom that it might just need cleaning I got her to let me clean it. After cleaning the dirty ass thing I found that there was oil all over the inside of the tubes going from the throttle body all the way down. I think I may have even seen some in the tube that directly goes into the turbo.

I guess my question now really is what else is there to check? I looked around for the vacuum leaks but there are SO MANY T's on so many of the lines it's hard to find anything. Plus there are a bunch of lines that go around the engine and just end....

Lost again... =[
 
If you've got oil in the big hoses from the turbo to the intercooler to the throttle body, then you've got blown turbo seals (rebuild or replace time).

Another thing you can check is if the clamps on all those hoses are tight (won't help with the oil problem however). They work loose over time.
 
OKAY!!
So I went through, cleaned the throttle body, capped all the extra lines to finish the process of deletion, screwed my BISS to where every one said it should be, replaced my IAC, AND NOTHING HAS CHANGED!!

I don't know where else to look. The engine is still surging from 1000-2000 and some times will rev all the way up to 4000, making it impossible to get it into first or reverse.
Any more ideas?


Oh, and is there a guide on how to rebuild the turbo? I don't really know what to do and am wondering if I could just like, clean all of the parts and it would work....
 
I would say you still have vacuum leaks. Build a boost leak tester and pressure the system to 20psi and find all the places that you hear air coming out. Fix those and go from there. Also check and make sure your throttle cable isadjusted properly,. if its too tight, it will make your idle high sometimes because your butterfly in the throttle body cannot close all the way.
 
I made a boost leak tester, honestly my friend did it for me so I wouldn't do it wrong, and found no leaks. There are no more hoses going really anywhere... I do believe there is one from under the turbo but other then that every thing has been capped.
The mother made me waste my time and take it to the dealership and see what they said about it, and after having it for three days they gave it bak with out charging me, because they said it was beyond repair... i got a feeling they just didnt want to do all the vacuum shit.

So now I am super lost. all of the caps are tight, I have gone over that stupid diagram a million times just to make sure, and nothing has helped.
c
As regards to the Terry Talon thing, that was the first place I started. I have done every thing he has told me to do and it didn't help... If we want to get tehnical, it might have made it run worse. seeing as now it revs all the way to red line, has the oil pressure up to the top of the gauge, and over heats ALLTHE TIME.

oh and i have the garrett t 25, or so i have been told, is that the same type of rebuild as those?
 
I think it is similiar to the T3 turbo one but pm jusmx141 to be sure. I rebuilt my T25 and got my parts and advice from him. In the end though, I wish I had just sent it to him to rebuild (he's the guru turbo rebuilder here) with all the time and effort it took and the fact that I had to pay someone to media blast the turbine and compressor wheels anyway.
 
i have been slowly getting my mom to allow me to do that, seeing as how it is her car. my only issue is that wont fix the stupid idle jumping.

still throwing the same codes too. now that i have deleted every thing for the vacuum lines, should i just attempt at putting them all bak? im not a huge fan of the idea, just ause of all the parts i will have to repurchase. that and i dont see why just this stupid talon is being diffiult.
 
My mom went and did it now. So my mom didn't like the aftermarket dip stick that I had to make, so she put a dip stick in from a 1g into the 2g motor. Come to find out from the dealership, it's too short. So when she went to fill the engine up with oil, the dipstick said it was empty when it was FAR ####ing from it.

Basically the car ended up running for about 200 miles with right around 7 god damn quarts of oil in it. -_-
Now, the car barely starts, smells off too much gas, and has so little power I couldn't make it up a TINY hill, let alone flat ground. After taking the spark plugs out, cause another one of her brilliant friends said that's what's wrong, I found that the first spark plug has OIL EVERY WHERE! On the threads of the spark plug, on the spark plug wire boot, all over the inside basically....

I guess my question is, did my mom just blow the rings in her damn car? Or is this lack of power STILL the same issue from before?


**Also, in regards to my PREVIOUS problems (in hindsight, the easy problem) I found my egr, and I am just going to go through the painful process of putting it all back together; my mom's not a racer, she doesn't need anything deleted. And, on top of that I bought a new computer on ebay just in case, but now that I bought it, I think it might be wrong. All the other ECU's specified that it was for the 5spd, AWD TSI version of the car (the one I have) but the one I got doesn't specify anything...

=/
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top