car wont stay on after intercooler install

[winterftbl]

Just like the title says. I installed my intercooler with short route piping and now when I go too turn my car on it will spark and turn on, and then will shoot up to 2k rpms then will keep bouncing back in forth from 100 rpms to 2k. After like five seconds it will just shut off. My boost gauge does the same thing it will stay in vacuum but keep bouncing back and forth. Anyone know what the problem is? Thanks For all the help Winter

 

[xxraptor660xx]

Make sure all your couplings are tight. Perform a boost leak test, and let us know what the outcome is.

 

[winterftbl]

Already tried a boost leak. I was thinking that it might be my maf?

 

[oldman]

Already tried a boost leak.

What method and what were the results of the test? In detail.

 

[winterftbl]

I would fill it up with air and listen. My boost gauge would not go up but air was going into the system and didnt hear anything. Is that right?

 

[oldman]

I would fill it up with air and listen. My boost gauge would not go up but air was going into the system and didnt hear anything. Is that right?

Final conditions of a properly done boost leak test, compressor regulator (air source) set to 25psi, boost gauge showing 20psi, taking no less than 30 seconds to bleed down to 0 from 20psi. Conclusion, you have massive boost leaks.

 

[winterftbl]

WHat would be a way to check since my boost gauge doesnt fill up?

 

[bling5tatus]

Yep, your vacuum jumping around is normally a sign of boost leaks.

 

[oldman]

A boost leak test step by step I posted while back.

1. Disable your mbc.

2. Turn your motor to 30* ATDC to avoid valve overlap.

3. Start your test at the TB elbow and focus on area behind the TB first.

4. Spray soapy water at TB gasket, BISS, TB shaft on both sides, IM gasket, injector insulators, brake booster, afpr and all vacuum lines/connections.

5. Open your oil cap and listen for leaks. (PCV, valve seals/guide, rings)

5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing, bent/unseated valves)

6. Once all leaks are fixed, move the tester back to the turbo inlet.

7. Spray down the compressor cover (known leak), BOV return/flange (DO NOT TAP YOUR BOV LINE FOR YOUR MBC!!!), IC end tank/fins and all connections. Re- test.

8. Note that you will leak air into the crankcase through the turbo seal but do not panic, this is normal during a static pressure test as long as there are no shaft play.

The desired test result from the begining of the LICP (bypassing turbo) is around 20psi (on boost gauge) with the compressor set at 30psi, while taking no less than 30 seconds to bleed down to 0.

As a reference, my last test on my 500 mile new engine, I was able to pressurize the system to 25psi, bled down to about 16psi (my 1G bov) in about 30seconds, then took about 3 mins to 6psi and just kinda lingered there for a while. It's not easy to do but the point is it's possible. My next goal is 30psi After motor break in and Dodge modding my BOV. A boost leak test is one of most pita but important regular maintenace task, the key is patience and endurance, have fun.

 

[bling5tatus]

How do you know if your motor is 30 degrees atdc? Do you set it at tdc and then turn it "thirty more degrees".... I mean do I have to bust out my protractor or what, that's what I'm asking.

 

[oldman]

How do you know if your motor is 30 degrees atdc? Do you set it at tdc and then turn it "thirty more degrees"....

That is correct.

I mean do I have to bust out my protractor or what, that's what I'm asking.

You don't have to be exact, there are a lot of room for error, the key is to make sure you're no where near TDC, that means TDC of every cylinder, not just #1 TDC.

 

[bling5tatus]

Thank you, to the OP, I hope you get your problem fixed, let us know if you do.

edit: just for completeness, you should only rotate your engine clockwise @ the crank shaft bolt.

 

[snowborder714]

Also, I'm not sure what boost gauge you have, but if you have an electronic boost gauge (not manual, where you actually have a line going from the boost gauge to a boost source), make sure your key is in the On position (not the CAR being on, just the key in that position).