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Car won't start after washing engine bay

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AlaskanDsm

15+ Year Contributor
1,121
14
Oct 21, 2007
Fairbanks, Alaska
So, I washed my engine about 4 hours ago trying to clean up some of the crap. I used the Purple Power (or whatever the shit is) spray which did a nice job. Well, I just went to go and start the car but the car won't start. Engine turns over but it won't start. I don't have the time to work on it at the moment but from quick glances, All fuses appear to be good on the battery, fuse box, and underdash. I checked for any electrical plugs that have have come undone such as MAS, CAS, sparkplug wires, TPS, coolant sensors, O2 sensor, etc.

I did notice some water in the spark plug wells but I soaked that up with some paper towels but still didn't get the engine to start. Had no issues starting before washing the engine bay. Looking for any suggestions or ideas as to where I can start to look for issues in a little bit when I have more time to actually start testing for issues. My gut is telling me that it is going to be a sparking issue be it plugs, wires, coil pack, transistor dealy that powers the coil pack, or even the ignition control module on the firewall...

Ideas and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. I will check back here as quick as I can to review and to give back results when I can. Thank you all in advance.
 
How exactly did you "wash" your engine bay? Because it sounds like you just sprayed Everything with Purple Power then hosed it down. Because you said it does crank but not turn over, my guess would be either the electronics regarding your fuel delivery or spark, double check that all your connectors are plugged in.
 
I would check your CAS, usually you're suppose to cover the CAS, alternator, coilpack, and lightly spray electrical connectors with wd-40 before you wash the bay.
 
Did you cover the CAS and MAF as recommended dang near everywhere online?
 
All electrical major electrical connectors have been checked for water (MAS/CAS/O2) and there was no water present as well as checked to make sure they were all plugged in as stated before. As far as washing the engine, I had disconnected the battery from the system and sprayed down most of the engine, but not the connectors where avoidable, and then washed the engine down with a hose. I have multiple times in the past just took a steam cleaner to the engine with no reguard to the electrical system and never had such a problem in the past. (NOT saying that this is smart or in any way the correct way to clean the engine bay.) So to honestly answer the questions, I did not cover the MAS or CAS sensors but DID try avoid getting them wet as much as possible which probably isn't much.

Just looking for suggestions on what steps to take next to identify issues so I will let you know if I was being a dumbass or not..
 
I would start by pulling your plug wires out and testing for spark to make sure you are getting spark. Might have soaked your plugs, maybe try putting some new plugs in, not that expensive. Hope this helps.
 
Yea I was kinda thinking the same as both mentioned. Here in AZ by 6pm tonight, that car should be pretty dang dry. Also, I was thinking that if the water somehow got into the porcelain of the plugs, it could have screwed them up. If the car doesn't start later, I'll get new plugs. But I am definitely still open to ideas!
 
water in the coil? pop the wires off and look down in it with a flash light. happened a lot when i was detailing cars for a living.
 
Also, one time when my car wouldn't start it was because my coolant temp sensor came undone. It's on of the ones underneath the thermostat housing. Just something else to check.
 
Well this probably doesn't help but I just went outside real quick and cranked it over for about 5 seconds and then the CEL popped on. grabbed my analog meter and got the code 22 (crankshaft sensor). Soooo maybe thinking that the CAS died...? Its hot out here for me so I will figure out what numbers to reference to test the CAS and then report back.

Looking in my book of knowledge here (Haynes), it says to check the circuit side (terminal 3 (12v), terminal 2(4.8-5.2v), terminal 4 (ground continuity).) but is there a way to test the CAS itself?

An additional search led me to an answer to how to test the CAS to verify functionality:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/394020-how-test-1g-cas.html#post152483382

So I will test my circuit first and if that looks good, i am going to check for spark next. I don't want to take off the CAS unless I have to.

Just tested the CAS circuit (harness) and terminal 3 was 12v, terminal 2 was 5v, and I used terminal 4 as the ground.

Went out to just turn the car over again and no start. I have new plugs that I am going use to test for spark as well. I will post back with further results. Thanks for the help so far guys.
 
So kind of an update here. I bought new plugs and tried test sparking on cylinder 4 with old plug(against valve cover) and there was no spark. I tried cylinder 3 with new plug and there was no spark. I am still assuming it is the CAS. I marked the CAS location and took it off. I took the cover off and blew whatever remaining moisture out (nothing really came out). I reassembled and tried hooking it back up to the car to follow gofer's instruction from the link above but I get no "pulses" when I try to measure the voltage from the harness of pins 1 and 2. They both just read 5v all the time. I don't have a spare CAS to try and see if this is the problem. Can anyone shed any additional light on what I should check on with the CAS or to see why else I'm not getting spark? Thanks.
 
Take your CAS off the car and take the cover off of it, I bet there is water inside......I did the same thing you did and my car wouldnt start either
 
92nolatist, iugrad92turbo, My answer to both of your posts would be to read above....

But to be fair, no I did not cover anything...

and I already pulled off the CAS and there was no fluid inside.


DSM_love_GST,
maaaaan anything will kill an alternater these days haha. Good thing I have the lifecrap warranty from O'reilies. But I did know that the purple power isn't good for aluminum. But the only time I have NOT used a pressure washer... the car won't start ROFL.
 
I haven't seen the IPT (Ignition Power Transistor) mentioned anywhere in here, have you checked it yet? That plug faces UP so its easy for H2O to leak passed the connector and settle into the bottom of the plug, if this is the case the IPT is probably shorted/burnt up internally.

:dsm:
 
I haven't seen the IPT (Ignition Power Transistor) mentioned anywhere in here, have you checked it yet? That plug faces UP so its easy for H2O to leak passed the connector and settle into the bottom of the plug, if this is the case the IPT is probably shorted/burnt up internally.

:dsm:
 
double posting mod... SHEESH! haha.

Like I said before, I was going to check the coil pack and the transistor in a bit when it cools down a little bit. I thought the Transistor is the one that is on the backside of the engine facing straight back at the driver...?

On another note gofer, I tried following that post you had about testing the CAS, How do I check for those pulses you were talking about? I hooked the CAS into the harness and checked the wires comin from pins 1 and 2 but they were at a constant 5v no matter what direction or how fast I spun the CAS. Am I missing something or am I doing something incorrectly?
 
It's the cas. I did the same thing to my galant vr4 way back when. You can get one at a pick n pull for about $20. There is an o-ring in between the cover, and cas case. It dries out, and the cas is no longer water proof. Take the 2 screws out, remove the cover, and look for yourself, water.
 
It's the cas. I did the same thing to my galant vr4 way back when. You can get one at a pick n pull for about $20. There is an o-ring in between the cover, and cas case. It dries out, and the cas is no longer water proof. Take the 2 screws out, remove the cover, and look for yourself, water.

I have already done this and said that I have 2x now... *sigh*. But there was no water in the CAS when I disassembled it. Maybe a very very minute about of moisture. I did notice in one spot that, as you had said, the seal was getting worn out. I still believe that it is the CAS but I am trying to test the one I have before I have before spending the time to get another one. If I had a tester to swap out I would deffinetly do that.
 
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