Car won't start after washing engine bay

[AlaskanDsm]

So, I washed my engine about 4 hours ago trying to clean up some of the crap. I used the Purple Power (or whatever the shit is) spray which did a nice job. Well, I just went to go and start the car but the car won't start. Engine turns over but it won't start. I don't have the time to work on it at the moment but from quick glances, All fuses appear to be good on the battery, fuse box, and underdash. I checked for any electrical plugs that have have come undone such as MAS, CAS, sparkplug wires, TPS, coolant sensors, O2 sensor, etc.

I did notice some water in the spark plug wells but I soaked that up with some paper towels but still didn't get the engine to start. Had no issues starting before washing the engine bay. Looking for any suggestions or ideas as to where I can start to look for issues in a little bit when I have more time to actually start testing for issues. My gut is telling me that it is going to be a sparking issue be it plugs, wires, coil pack, transistor dealy that powers the coil pack, or even the ignition control module on the firewall...

Ideas and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. I will check back here as quick as I can to review and to give back results when I can. Thank you all in advance.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Another update:

After removing the CAS from the car, marking it's position on the head, and taking notice of the little dot position on the CAS, I removed that cover, and blew out whatever remaining moisture that was in the CAS. I re-installed the CAS in the marked position and tested the CAS. For those who may look over this thread testing procedure is as follows.

Teriminals
1) 5v (pulsing as CAS is turned) TDC signal wire (2 pulses per revolution)
2) 5v (pulsing as CAS is turned) CAM Signal wire (4 pulses per revolution)
3) 12v signal (battery)
4) Ground (test for continuity)

To test from the wiring harness to verify that the harness isn't the issue (as per Haynes manual):
1) turn the ignition to "on"
2) test for the following at the harness connector:

• Pin 2) 4.8 - 5.2v
• Pin 3) 12V
• Pin 4) ground (test for continuity)

To test CAS

Removal:
1)Mark the position of the CAS on the head so it can be reinstalled in the same location.
2)(If you have the bracket connected from the TB elbow to the CAS) looking at the TB elbow, remove the right side, top and bottom bolts from the TB (12mm) and the nut holding the left side of the bracket to the CAS. Once those 3 have been removed, you can remove the last nut from the right side of the CAS.
3)When you pull the CAS from the head, look directly at the part that goes into the head and you will see a little dimple on the face of this piece. NOTE THIS LOCATION for reinstall purposes or your car will not start.

Testing:
1)Plug the CAS back into the wiring harness
2)Stab through the insulation of pins 1 and 2 each separately. You should see the voltage pulse as you rotate the CAS (notated above for pulses per revolution)

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After I performed the above testing, the CAS appeared to be good. I re-installed the CAS and installed new NGK BPR7ES plugs gapped at .028. Went to start the car and it WORKED!! right up until it warmed up and it dropped 2 cyclinders and the died. I couldn't get it to start again. I decided that it may be a battery related issue if maybe the alternator died on me. I jumped the car and it started!

While it was running, I decided to check the battery voltage to see if the alternator was indeed toast. I got 14V at the battery so the alt was good and so was the battery. Well I had the car running this time for 15 minutes with no problems. I figured the issue had been resolved. I tried backing the car up and about five feet back, the car dies with no stumble or warning.

I got her running again and pulled back into my parking spot. I left the car running and during the next couple minutes, the car almost died three times as if the key was turned off, but it caught at the last second, finally dying the fourth time. During this time I got a CEL for codes 22 and 23 (crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor = Cam Angle Sensor).

I got the car running again and I figured it may be a wiring problem. I wiggled the SHIT out of those wires with no stumble or fail.. just dies on it own. At this point I figured that the CAS was defective. I figured it was time to look for a replacement. With the help of Gofer and his previous posts, I was easily able to retrieve this information.

Green top is P/N MD148855 and came on 91-92 DSM's, it plugs in on top though but works the same as yours now... its a optical CAS.

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Black top is P/N MD184529 and came on the 93-94 DSM's and also plugs in like the 91-92 green top. The black top is a "Hall Effect" sensor though, which uses magnets similar to the '2g CAS.

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Both of these models are plug and play for the 91-94 DSMs (89-90 have a different model). The black one for these purposes is the better of the two but more expensive.

These models can also be found on the following vehicles:
(this list also includes the model for the 89-90 CAS)

HYUNDAI ELANTRA (1992 - 1994)
HYUNDAI ELANTRA GL (1992 - 1994)
HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS (1992 - 1994)
HYUNDAI ELANTRA (1994 - 1995)
HYUNDAI ELANTRA GL (1994 - 1995)
HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS (1994 - 1995)
HYUNDAI SONATA (1994 - 1995)
HYUNDAI SONATA GL (1994 - 1995)
HYUNDAI SONATA GLS 1994
DODGE 2000 GTX 1990
MITSUBISHI GALANT 1990
MITSUBISHI GALANT GS 1990
MITSUBISHI GALANT GSX 1990
MITSUBISHI GALANT LS 1990
EAGLE TALON 1990
EAGLE TALON TSI 1990
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GS 1990
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GSX 1990
MITSUBISHI GALANT 1989
MITSUBISHI GALANT GS 1989
MITSUBISHI GALANT LS 1989
PLYMOUTH LASER RS 1990

I currently in the process of getting a replacement. Once I re-install the replacement CAS, I will post back with further results. Thanks everyone!

 

[AlaskanDsm]

New update.


I went ahead an got a used CAS from someone local here for $40. I swapped it out and drove the car to work today and back (50 miles round trip). Not a single issue. Thanks everyone for your help and support.