Car wobbles when acceleration

[2gProjectCar]

I'm usually pretty good when it comes to fixing my car, but for some reason I can't figure this one out. When I'm driving between 0 - 35 mph the car acts fine. But when i accelerate past 35+ mph the front begins to wobble. Faster speed = more wobble. yes, I've used the search tool already and read over many of the similar threads, but I still can't narrow down whats causing the problem.
So far I have replaced the inner and outer tie rod on the drivers side, and replaced the passenger side cv axle. I've also tried pulling and turning each tire to rule out the hub, there was no movement so the hub is fine. I had a friend lean his head out the window at times while i drove around and he didn't see the wheel itself wobbling in and out. Oh, and i had my tires balanced about a month ago.

Any suggestions or ideas would be helpful.
Thanks

 

[DSM1G90]

Yu got clicky CV axles then - when you turn corners?


It's something that can't be seen good or bad since it has the boot over it.

But, get that front end up in the air by a floor jack where both tires are barely off the ground (chock the rear wheels good), then put a pry bar under the lower "A" frame so you can lift up the "A" and see what kind of play you got.

If the "A" can be lifted before it presses up into the hub assembly .. gone ball joints.

Good luck - DSM

 

[2gProjectCar]

Its not really just when i turn, but all the time when the car is in motion. And the boot was busted all the way around so i know the axle was bad.

For those of you who said to check the motor mounts, I pushed and pulled and everything i could try to move the engine but there was no movement. So I'm assuming the mounts are fine.

Right now I'm working on replacing the drivers side cv axle (only 30$ thanks to a friend at autozone). I've got the old axle out no problem, and the new one in but the tranny leaks oil when I i try to fill it back up. I know it's not overflow from putting to much in because i cant feel the oil at the bottom of the fill plug. Any idea where it might be coming from? Could I have possibly not set the new axle into the trans all the way?

 

[ramsack]

The axle seal could be in too far or damaged. I would get new ones if you never did them. Should be less than a $20 investment.

 

[2gProjectCar]

dang, Autozone just closed 9 minutes ago. ha, looks like i know what I'm doing tomorrow morning then. Hopefully your right about the seal.

 

[DSM1G90]

Any other place than AutoCRAPzone you can go to? I really feel sorry for folks, or even towns that only have them to deal with... - the "wal-mart" of auto parts stores..

 

[2gProjectCar]

Unfortunately no, its the only parts place around my town.

 

[DSM1G90]

Sorry on that - I just had bad experiences with them ... Just hope you can get your situation fixed so you can get back on the road and have fun.

Good luck as always - DSM

 

[gpopppa]

Well, no movement is always a good movement , I might of not read but did you check your tires for any cupping? With the clunking,maybe struts? i know my spyder had that clunking issue. But also you could try to rotate your fronts to the back driver side to pass rear and vice versa. That would narrow down if the tires are cupped or not balanced properly. Keep us updated!

 

[2gProjectCar]

I've got good news and bad news.

Good News: I fixed the wobble by replacing the cv axel on the drivers side.

Bad News: The car still makes a slight clunck noise from the passenger front tire area when i brake.

I'm going to get an alignment done after I replace the tie rods on the passenger side later today so maybe that will fix it.

On a side note, I have a rubber boot covering part of the inner tie rod on the passenger side that's busted. Anyone know where I can pick up a new one?

 

[kenuwine4g63]

I believe i had it worst guys, and this is a occuring problem like now!!! Just went a bought some tires with some GOOD tread to get by until i can afford some new tires without struggling. It rode so smooth, until a belt shifted in the front drivers side tire. And my alignment was already off, so i took it to pepboys and they gave me the whole ordeal. New inner tie rods on both sides and a new upper ball joint on the passenger side has to be replaced. More dirty work for me. The good thing is-the parts are cheap

 

[gpopppa]

Well thats good that you got it fixed,half way/ this might be a longshot but do you have and play in your brake calipers? as in just that. And i believe that boot comes with the tie rod.Dont quote me please, Im trying to visualize whats down there.

 

[kawgomoo]

axle is not engaged into tranny. with one hand push the cv joint into the tranny holding it there. with the other hand extend the cv shaft pulling it towards you and then slam in shut towards the transmission.

you are basically using the cv shaft like its own slide hammer. one or two whacks and you will feel a noticeable clunk as the circlip on the end of the axle engages inside the differential.

autozone axles have notoriously large clips on the end, so sometimes a good amount of beating that bi*** will be required. dont be shy. its an axle, you arent going to hurt it. {just dont over extend it and rip the boot or pull the joint apart..that would suck}

 

[2gProjectCar]

I dont have any play that i can think of. I do know i need to bleed my brakes since i just replaced the pads.But I don't think thats what your asking about.

As for the boot I'm not sure. When I replaced the inner tie rod on the drivers side i had to reuse the old boot that was already there.

I did manage to get the axle slammed into the tranny after nearly breaking my 2.5lb dead blow rubber mallet. haha

 

[Boosted98AWD]

the boot you need that covers the inner tie rod is called a bellows boot, you should be able to pick one up at any auto parts store, though it may be an over night deal. as for the clunking, have you check all of the lower control arms good for play in the bushings?

 

[2gProjectCar]

Thanks for the info on that part Boosted98AWD. Haven't had a chance to run to the parts store but at least I'll know exactly what I'm looking for when i walk in.

Now it seems I have a new problem though. I was out driving with the rest of the tuner crowd the other night and out of nowhere my temp gauge went higher than usual. I pulled over and lifted the hood and was greeted with wonderful white smoke, not a lot, but enough to make me worry. after sitting there for 15-20 letting the car cool down I got back in and decided to head home. Made it about a mile down the road and then it happened. I was slowing down for a stop light and it seemed like my car bogged down then a few seconds later, it died completely. I managed to get the car started again after a jump from a buddy, made it about another mile or two, and then the same thing happened again. I'm not sure if this was a one time thing due to the over heat, or if I have a more serious problem. My first thought was something to do with the fuel system. Any ideas?

 

[lilrob2069]

Talked to a couple mechanic friends and they say it could be the bushings inside the lower curved control arm causing the wobble, anyone able to back up this theory? I did get underneath the car and was able to move the arm up and down about a quarter inch each way, is this normal or a sign that it is the bushing?

I had the same problem, i changed control arms, and tie rods and seems to be fine if you find that your ball joints have no clips on them then you will need to change control arms. I just did mine and found out the hardway. my bushings wouldn't come off and the balljoint and control arm was one unit. but yet i could buy the ball joints seperate and the bushing. luckily one of my suppliers got me control arms for 75 a side. with bushings and balljoint.