1G Car starts but rpms just keep climbing

[xander061]

I just finished swapping my motor from my 91 TSi to my 92 ESi. I swapped everything over so its technically a TSi in a ESi body.

At first power would come on but died when I turned the key to the start position, adjusted the battery terminal connections then it would start. Once it started the rpms just keep climbing without my foot on the gas, check throttle cables and there sitting normal. I think it could be the ISC but would like some idea for what else to check.

Just replaced the ISC with one I had sitting around and its doin the same thing, adjusted the bracket on the intake manifold and it dropped how high it goes so it stops around 4k then drops to 500. If I tap the gas it shots back up then down.

My aftermarket boost gauge goes to 20 vacuum and is connected between intake manifold and stock fuel rail regulator

Video of it

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[Wrenchit]

I have done a similar swap. You swapped everything as the harness from the fuse panel inside too? And you have the fuel pump from the original vehicle swapped over too?

 

[liquidsilver]

Is your mods list up to date?

When you adjust the cable, start with it all the way OUT (throttle completely closed), then adjust as needed.

 

[xander061]

Yes mod list is up to date now.

Blocked off the FIAV which dropped the high start up idle down another 1k. Took the injectors out and cleaned them by soaking them and made a injector tester with stuff I had layin around and all are spray how they should. Replaced plugs, fuel pump (Evo 8) and fuel filter (read on a forum a clogged filter could cause it) and still has the rough idle plus I let it run for awhile had it give it alil throttle push every 10-15 sec to keep it running and still ECU never could up to fix it itself. Running out of ideas on what it could be.

I tried adjusting the throttle cable which help alil but not much. BISS screw from all the way tight to all the way loose, the ISC plugged in and unplugged. I followed a write up someone had on here how to do the swap and it said nothing about a fuse box (i modded my ESi harness as it said to make it a TSi harness by adding the knock sensor and injector resistor box):

This is the write up I used to do the swap.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...48231-installing-turbo-4g63-into-nt-4g63.html

I know old gas is bad in small engine but could it do this.

I added some new gas and connected the dp and now its not idling so crazy but now its idle surging. I'm posting this from my phone will look in it up when I get on my comp

I installed an EGR block plate, added some fresh gas, and connected the dp but nothing after that's why its alil loud. It's idling a lot better but now it's idle surging, at end of the video that's me revving it. I have the boost turned way down since I had to send my boost gauge back to the company since it wasn't reading right.

91 TSi :: idling video by hackeragent061 - Photobucket

 

[liquidsilver]

Not sure about the electrical aspect.

I was concerned about your fuel setup, but an EVO 8 pump and stock injectors are fine. Did you use RTV on the EGR block off plate? Good link you posted...did you try adjusting the idle switch? When you rotate the throttle by hand, does it stick (click)? Confirmend no boost leaks?

 

[xander061]

Not sure about the electrical aspect.

I was concerned about your fuel setup, but an EVO 8 pump and stock injectors are fine. Did you use RTV on the EGR block off plate? Good link you posted...did you try adjusting the idle switch? When you rotate the throttle by hand, does it stick (click)? Confirmend no boost leaks?

I used a metal crush gasket between for the egr plate. If you mean the bliss screw i've tried that but i havent tryed unplugging the idle switch since i got it idling like the second video, the throttle moves freely no sticking. I did a boost leak test and its fine no leaked that i could fine. That video i posted yesterday was the last thing i did and it was fine but the next start up nothing changed it kill itself. Now i know its got to be something electrical b/c my new battery wont keep a charge like it was. I have to use my jump box to get power now. The alternator doesn't have more then 500mi on it. Its idling at 700 and with spike to 3-4k at start up and then every 30-40sec again. If i turn the gauge lights on it started to stumble so the car revs up to try to stay running but then dies. I think i remember the reason why i left it sitting for 2yrs without working on it, its one problem fixed then 3 more arise.

 

[xander061]

My alt or battery must be bad (both are new) car wont stay on once I unhook my jump box. But I made another video of how it is idling now its around 600-700. At the end of the video I barley open the throttle and it revs real quick then stumbles.(have a video of that also)

Brand new gauge just got it my last one was bad so company gave me a new one but it reads -2 at idle then 15-20vac when i rev it. Done BLT on all piping and intercooler.

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...eragent061/91 tsi/2012-08-13_20-20-17_768.mp4

 

[Aphix]

I havent went through your whole thread, but a bad TPS can wreak havoc on a car, and it wont throw a code. I've had issues with TPS connections that ranged from over heating, to making me think my transmission was blown (the TCU uses the TPS as well). I would try another TPS if you have one and ALWAYS make sure you have the clip in the connector for a solid connection.

 

[xander061]

This is the video of right after i did the last were it stumbles
http://static.photobucket.com/playe...eragent061/talons/2012-08-13_20-21-00_156.mp4

Battery reads 12.43v but no power to even turn the radio on

TPS from 1-4 4.98 closed, 2-4 0.62 closed and 5.24 opened. From what I've read I will need to adjust it to 0.9 closed.

Fixed the battery problem and adjusted the TPS to 0.63v, its idling alil better but still rough and now after a few minutes it starts to smoke a light white that smell like somethings burning from between the o2 housing and turbo. Very low oil pressure about 25%.

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...eragent061/talons/2012-08-14_17-38-23_502.mp4

http://static.photobucket.com/player...-48-39_237.mp4

http://static.photobucket.com/player...-46-01_610.mp4

 

[xander061]

Worked on the throttle body making sure it was all sealed. Found hose coming front intake manifold to FPR that I have my boost gauge tapped into had a slit in it. Fixed that still not hitting boost.

I've boost leak tested everything individually and everything holds pressure. Idle is at -2 vac and when I rev - 15--20 vac still no boost.

weird turbo noise
weird turbo sound - YouTube

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...eragent061/talons/2012-08-21_15-12-48_127.mp4

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...50/hackeragent061/2012-08-21_17-13-51_502.mp4

 

[xander061]

idle

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[xander061]

marks are exactly where everywhere i could find said they should be

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[xander061]

compression 1-164,2-165,3-170,4-165

pic of spark plug left to right 4,3,2,1

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[xander061]

I truly can't find what is causing my car to not run right. Idle is rough and vac sits around -4 inHg instead of the 16 it should. Did a blt and the only place not holding pressure is from the tb elbow into the motor. i cant find where the leak is: done soapy water, pb blaster, air compressor blowing are at every joining point to see if idle changed, soaked injector seals in oil soft no cracks and check all vac lines. Timing marks are lined up, plugs gapped and nothing changed.

 

[fantom73088]

Are you running a catalytic converter? Check and see if its plugged and do a leak down test they are better then compression tests and can help locate a valve leak or head gasket problem if there is one.

 

[xander061]

Yea got a cat not clogged, don't have access to a leak down tester but if my compression test came out normal can't I rule out the motor itself?(since the timing is good and compression is fine)

 

[xander061]

Added a new gasket between the turbo and o2 housing and got the broken stud removed so the turbo has 4 bolts connecting it to the manifold to stop the exhaust leak. I hear a pop every once in a while coming from the intake manifold area but can tell exactly where. Vacuum is still low 3-4inHg tapped between manifold and fpr.(did it on port P on tb no change) only place that doesn't hold pressure is between the tb elbow and motor but don't hear any leak.

 

[xander061]

I found problem to be a blown IM gasket on the bottom of cylinder 1 and 2. I replaced it and vacuum is better now and can hit boost. But still have one problem it idle bounces between 1200-1500 and vac 19-22. Set my TPS to 0.63 and have tried the BISS adjustment according to VFAQ with no rpm change even when its all the way in just idles smoother.

 

[xander061]

Just adjusted my TPS again, it was at .29v since I followed advice and set it to 0.63 ohms. I read over a lot and found it is supposed to be set to 0.48-0.54v on pin 2&4 so i set it to 0.50v. But instead of the idle jumping from 1200-1500 like it was before adjustment it sits at 1400 idle now.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

You have another vacuum leak. If your car doesn't cut off when the biss is screwed all the,way in then your getting extra air somewhere.

 

[xander061]

forgot to readjust the biss screw by grounding out the sensor, will work on it tomorrow