Car seized?

[samus21]

I was driving my car and it was making a knocking noise at higher rpms. I got to a stop sign and i heard a loud screech and the car shut off. any thoughts?



I put more oil in the engine and it all leaked out at the far corner of the oil pan on the side with the bolt to change the oil.

 

[northernawd]

Sounds like you got a hole poked in you pan, ran out of oil and siezed up.

 

[samus21]

would you say I need a new engine or is it fixable? and what would put a hole in it?

 

[Spanky_DSM]

Grab a breaker bar or torque wrench with a 1/2 inch drive and try and spin the crank and verify if the engine did indeed lock up.

But i went thru the exact same thing when mine seized. Loud screech and then it shut off. Damn oil filter had backed out on me on the freeway

 

[northernawd]

Anything can put a hole in an oil pan. From scraping, bottoming out or someone really wanted to get at you and put a hole there

 

[samus21]

I put more oil in the car and checked thedip stick. Good on oil. I just missed when i put the oil in i guess. If i leave the car for a while and try to start it it will crank for a second or two make a screeching sound and just stop. It has fuel spark and air. Timing belt water pump and pullys were just replaced.. it was making a knocking noise at higher rom rpms just before this happened.

 

[boostback]

Might be a good idea to double check the timing and make sure that it is still correct.

 

[eclipsyco]

I put more oil in the car and checked thedip stick. Good on oil. I just missed when i put the oil in i guess. If i leave the car for a while and try to start it it will crank for a second or two make a screeching sound and just stop. It has fuel spark and air. Timing belt water pump and pullys were just replaced.. it was making a knocking noise at higher rom rpms just before this happened.

Man as Spanky say try to turn the engine by hand get a wrench, an extension and a 22mm socket but that thing in the crank (timing side obviously) and turn it counter clockwise remove sparks plugs to make it easy to turn. Good luck.

 

[samus21]

Is there anything else i should check while im at it?

 

[boostback]

Check compression to verify valves are intact. with all 4 plugs out turn it over with a breaker bar and if it is very hard to turn over than it probably ran out of oil and seized up. Then once the temperature comes down ocassionally they will un seize but still be very hard to turn over . If thats the case the you are probably going to have to tear it down have it honed and rebuild it from the ground up. Also a great time to look into upgrading for future plans.

 

[Talyn]

You spun or at very least damaged to the point of needing replaced either a rod or crankshaft bearing. I would advise against trying to turn it over anymore, as it will only tear up the crank main or rod(whichever went) journals that much more. You are going to have to pull the engine, and at very least put new main or rod bearings in it, if it was a rod bearing you will need to inspect the rod for any signs of excessive heat, ie. color distortion, if it looks blue, or burnt so to speak, then the temper is ruined and the rod will need replaced. You will also have to check the journal on the crank and determine if it is gouged, if it has any gouges you can catch your fingernail on, you know right away it needs cut or replaced(And DSM cranks are not supposed to be cut, not that it stops people from doing it anyways). If it doesn't have any deep gouges or heat fatigue, you might be able to micropolish it and reuse it. And if it was a main journal you should also inspect the main cap for heat fatigue.
In any case, you have a rod or main bearing that needs replaced, at very least. Hate to break the bad news, but its time for a rebuild.

 

[Miasma]

Before even trying to spin the crank, drain the oil and pull off the oil pan under neath the car. Inspect the oil pan for metal and look at your crank. If you find hot spots, you spun a bearing. You can also look try to get a good look at your mains, and check your side to side crankshaft movement for walk.

 

[samus21]

the car did start... but it is knocking really bad... I dont have time to build an engine what crate engine would you recommend so I can just drop it in and not have to worry about putting to much together?

 

[Sebba]

Well, you've got a destroyed bottom end, head, and turbo. Replace them all.

 

[Talyn]

Well, you've got a destroyed bottom end, head, and turbo. Replace them all.

That is an awful lot of assumption.

To the OP, I've priced out a few shortblocks, and they all seem to cost about the same, that being said, I would go with magnus, they seem to be pretty serious about the 4g63.

 

[Sebba]

That is an awful lot of assumption.

To the OP, I've priced out a few shortblocks, and they all seem to cost about the same, that being said, I would go with magnus, they seem to be pretty serious about the 4g63.

Assumption? Lets take a look.

Knocking = Spun bearing
Spun bearing = metal shavings
Metal shavings = gouged camshafts, crank, turbo journal, oil pump, etc, circulated all around the engine and through an oil cooler if you have one.

That's a pretty safe assumption.

 

[samus21]

Should I just get a short block and keep the head? The head was rebuilt recently. A few hundred miles ago.

 

[Sebba]

Sure, if you want to replace the engine again for the same reason.

It's full of metal shavings.

 

[Spanky_DSM]

Get a quart of oil and a turkey baster and pump oil into the feed line with the return line unhooked from the turbo at least.

 

[samus21]

when the engines apart couldn't I just clean the head? Or should I just sell the head and buy a crate engine.

 

[Talyn]

Assumption? Lets take a look.

Knocking = Spun bearing
Spun bearing = metal shavings
Metal shavings = gouged camshafts, crank, turbo journal, oil pump, etc, circulated all around the engine and through an oil cooler if you have one.

That's a pretty safe assumption.

No, no it really is not. It's entirely possible that the bearing material didn't make it out of the bottom end, and I'm speaking from personal experience-are you?. The engine in my car spun a rod bearing, none of the material made it out of the oil pan, the pump had none in it, the oil galleys had none in them. But I guess I should just needlessly throw away the head and turbocharger which also had none in them. The only things needed replaced were the rod due to heat fatigue, bearing on same said rod, and the main bearings. And if DSM cranks were machinable the crank would be ok to use with a turn down of the rod journal.


The proper thing to do is to tear the whole engine down, and go over anything that gets oil to it with a fine tooth comb to check for bearing material and or damage. And clean everything thoroughly as well.

 

[LarryJoe]

I recently starved my engine of oil and still drove it a couple blocks while knocking. Fully rebuilt the bottom end myself, cleaned the head myself and my turbo and reused both. Haven't had a single issue. Don't throw away your head or turbo, just give them a good cleaning.

 

[samus21]

I think im going to part the engine out and just put a crate engine in. I don't have time with college and work to tear it apart again.

 

[Sebba]

Dismantle or replace your turbo too.

 

[samus21]

I was planning on upgrading since its easiest to do while the engine is out of the car and everything will be new. was going to go with a 16 or 20g turbo.