Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[gtgsxr]

I am assuming that you can check your water pump by seeing if the lower rad. piping is not getting warm? Mine is getting warm. I also did the hydrocarbon test and it came back that I don't have a leak. I will do it again just to make sure. But I am all out of ideas....

 

[ddavisaf]

I am assuming that you can check your water pump by seeing if the lower rad. piping is not getting warm? Mine is getting warm. I also did the hydrocarbon test and it came back that I don't have a leak. I will do it again just to make sure. But I am all out of ideas....

Out of ideas? Let me make it easy on you. This is from the link I posted. If nothing on here fixes your problem, take it to a professional.

After countless attempts to help disseminate the correct way to troubleshoot overheating issues i've finally decided to write an article about it.
Note: if nothing on this list fixes your overheating problem, sell your car. It's possessed and only god can help it now.

So you're overheating. Maybe it's only when you turn your A/C on. Maybe it's only when sitting in traffic. Did you install a FMIC and all of a sudden your car is sweltering?
Read through the list. Of course not everything may apply to you, so address the issue accordingly.



Replace your thermostat. Try a 180° F Mitsubishi thermostat. It is part number MD997607.

Your radiator cap might be old, and leaking too easily. Try a 16 lb radiator cap from a Nissan 300Z TT. Watch out - you might blow old heater or coolant hoses with the higher pressure, so be careful, or replace your hoses beforehand.

Your fans might not be running. Replace the fan temperature switch at the bottom of the radiator.

Low coolant levels. Top up your overflow bottle. There should always be coolant in the bottle. If your system is perpetually low on coolant, your bottle isn't big enough.

Your overflow bottle is not allowing coolant back in. Check the overflow bottle still has a
hose leading to the bottom of the bottle. The system must be able to draw coolant back in.

Flush your radiator. Old coolant (or a clogged radiator) could be the problem.

Try adding some Water Wetter or RMI-25 to aid cooling. Note that some of these products promote corrosion to a small degree.

Try a 90/10 to 70/30 water/antifreeze mix. More water leads to more cooling, but easier freezing and more corrosion.

Try running with no thermostat. If you still overheat, the problem is probably not in your cooling system per se; probably your difficulty is airflow through the radiator. (TEMPORARY TROUBLESHOOTING TECHNIQUE. Do not keep the thermostat out of the car to fix your problem...)

Wire both fans to run simultaneously. Obviously this only works if you have an secondary (air conditioning) fan to hotwire.

Run both fans permanently. That is, wire them to be always on. Note that the driver's side of the radiator probably doesn't cool as much as passenger side, because of where the radiator inlet and outlet are placed.

Remove the rear hood weatherstripping. Or, shim the rear hood hinges to raise the rear hood edge about 1/4-1/2". This promotes airflow out of the engine bay.

Install better fans. There are "high-performance" models available - get the ones with the best airflow.

Try shrouded fans instead of unshrouded fans. Shrouded fans seem to cool better.

Install some ducting to force incoming air into radiator. This mostly works only if you are having problems only when driving at highway speeds.

Install some high-temperature weatherstripping on top of radiator to try and force more air through it.

Open up front bumper fascia to allow more air flow to radiator.

Replace or upgrade the radiator. Fluidyne and Arizona Performance make upgrade models. You can try to get your radiator cleaned (or "rodded out") if you want to.

Install an external oil cooler to try and lose some heat that way. Leave a gap between the oil cooler and the radiator, if possible.

Wrap the water pipe near the turbo with heat wrap or jet hot/ceramic coat it.
If you have the air conditioning still in, remove the A/C condensor.

Maybe the water pump belt is slipping.

Install a new water pump.

Check your crankshaft pulley has not separated.

Check that your A/C refrigerant level is correct. Only applies if the A/C causes the overheating.

If all else fails, maybe a leaking headgasket is the problem. Run a compression test. Don't forget about the torque specs for the head bolts/studs also. Sometimes a simple torque wrench can fix your problem.


Special thanks to www.vfaq.com

 

[SleepingTsi94]

Well its tight. The belts are like getting eating away. I have not been over heating anymore. But now im losing volts. I think the alernator is going bad and maybe locking up? Is there away to tell or just go get it tested?

 

[dragrush]

Also check to make sure your radiator fans are coming on

 

[boostedtsi0069]

it also might be ## fan so check it

 

[ixsaves13]

I've had cooling issues and finally got around to do a pressure test on my cooling system. It's pretty much like a boost leak check, but you connect the gauge/pump where the radiator cap would be and pump away. I found that I had some leaks on some hoses that I thought was tightened.

After you drive, try double checking if you're low on coolant or leaking anywhere (and after it cools). This will at least help you see if there's a leak as well as burping your car. Another thing to do is add some water wetter to shrink the size of air pockets in your system.

Also, like others have said before, you could go to autozone / pepboys and pick up a cooler thermostat (190 degrees is stock, but you could go down to 180... but not much more than that if you're running a stock ecu). You could also check your radiator cap...

And when I upgraded my turbo, I had to take off my A/C fan, so I only have one 12" slim fan, which probably has contributed to less cooling efficiency.

By the way, I got a Fluidyne radiator as well. Good luck with troubleshooting... overheating is a itch....

 

[gtgsxr]

Well I am most likely taking it to a professional as soon as I get the time, but I don't know if this would help in diagnosis... When its hot outside (day) I can drive it like normal for about 10-15 minutes before it goes up to about 5/8th on the gauge 1/2 being normal. Anytime I get on it it goes up a little more to like 3/4. Tonight when it cooled down and I kept the heat on, i was dogging it pretty hard and it never got about normal temp!! I'm kinda outta ideas, but I don't know if this info could help anyone diagnose the problem before I shell out some cash. Thanks it advance guys.

 

[95talon_in_ma]

Well I am most likely taking it to a professional as soon as I get the time, but I don't know if this would help in diagnosis... When its hot outside (day) I can drive it like normal for about 10-15 minutes before it goes up to about 5/8th on the gauge 1/2 being normal. Anytime I get on it it goes up a little more to like 3/4. Tonight when it cooled down and I kept the heat on, i was dogging it pretty hard and it never got about normal temp!! I'm kinda outta ideas, but I don't know if this info could help anyone diagnose the problem before I shell out some cash. Thanks it advance guys.

You might want to get a real guage and not rely on the factory one to be sure you really are overheating...and how much..

 

[talontsi9095]

My temp gauge sensor went bad so i would try replacing that and if its the water pump you would most likely be able to hear it but you can check it by taking your belt loose and seeing if you can move the water pump wheel around if it moves it is prob. bad.I had the same problem not to long ago and it ended up being the bad sensor.

 

[solo92s10]

Ok my car is overheating but only after i drive it for 20 minautes or more and i come to slowly moving traffic or let the car idle. It doesnt matter if i am driving the car hard or not, just normal highway driving, or taking it to 6k rpm. I am losing coolant. All i have to do to get it back to normal temp is turn on the heat on the first notch and it goes to normal engine temp. I have a 2g and have the xs power fmic and i dont think my fans work. is this just a problem of my radiator not getting enough air? Should i wire my fans directly to always be on when the car is on? I am currently in denial that it is my head gasket but i already bought everything for i just incase, but if i dont have to i would love to take the parts back.
I am going to replace my thermostat and flush my radiator. Do you think that hardwiring my fans and flushing and a new thermostat will do the trick or are you thinking headgasket? Oh yeah it has a new water pump and timing belt and components.

 

[smokey8667]

My 2g was also overheating and I had to replace the thermostat & also found that my fans were only working when the "HI" relay kicked on. They would not work when they should have turned on "low". The low relay was not making a good conectionin the fuse box under the hood. I also was loosing coolant, but that was from when it got hot it was leaking around one of the squeeze clamps on the top radiator hose. I thought I had a blown head gasket but thats what it was insead.

 

[dave99gst]

I have a 2g and have the xs power fmic and i dont think my fans work

So you know your problem and solution -

 

[1990EclipseGSX]

I have a 2g and have the xs power fmic and i dont think my fans work. is this just a problem of my radiator not getting enough air? Should i wire my fans directly to always be on when the car is on?

Constructing some ducting out of sheet metal to direct the air from the FMIC into the radiator will help out.
A switch to let you turn on your fans always in traffic will help also, once you get them working again.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html

 

[20psi_GST]

I dont want to jump to conclusions to fast but i would have to say its your head gasket. The whole losing coolant thing is all i needed to hear. Unless you can see an obvious leak then it "has to be burning it somewhere". Hell it could be burning it and just simply dumping it out the exhaust so you will never see any evidence. Replace the thermostat and flush the radiator first. A thermostat isnt but about 12 dollars so it wont break the bank any if thats not the answer. But i honestly hope its not your head gasket cause thats a pain in the ass.

 

[ddavisaf]

Non-operational fans will cause your car to overheat. A FMIC that blocks incoming air to the radiator will cause it to overheat. A bad headgasket will cause it to overheat.
First thing you need to do is run a compression test. Service limit on your car is 133psi on any cylinder and there should be no more than 14 psi different between cylinders.
If your compression test results are good, then I recommend replacing the radiator cap. Replace your fans. If they don't work, then they need to. Some ducting to help direct air flow to the radiator is a good idea as well.

Also, next time you need to search. There is a walkthrough in the Tech Guide about overheating. It has everything that could be wrong with the vehicle.

 

[VicBoost]

I have the same problem when the car runs for about 20min or so in the summer it gets pretty hot but my fans work all the time when its hot. I have stock sidemount intercooler but my rpm's jump and my car runs rich. I'm guessing it might be the thermostat, just a quck question where is the thermostat and what you think my problem is?

 

[sacman11]

First let me say this is an excellent forum. I have done a tone of reading regarding this "OVERHEATING" topic and would just like to clarify a few questions that I cant seem to find the answer to.

My Scenerio:

92 Eagle Talon (nonturbo FWD), car was running good unitl the other day came home from work and anit-freeze boiled - with antifreeze coming out of the overflow hose at the bottom of the antifreeze container (passengerside front).

This is the first time I have had an issue with the car over heating.

I checked the radiator fan and noticed that it was not coming on once the car heated up. My temp gage inside the car shows past the middle and nearing the H before I shut it down in order to not over heat again.

I tried to test the FANS. I was able to direct connect the battery to the 2-4 posts of the Fan switch. One fan works the other does not.

What I would like to know is which FAN is what (ie which fan is the Rad Fan and which is the AC Condensor Fan. (DRIVERSIDE FAN, or PASSENGERSIDE FAN)

I would like to know which is which. I was able to check the passangerside FAN and it worked by jumping it to the battery of the car directly. The driverside fan did not work when I tried to jump it.

Do I need to have the Key in and The AC to test the AC condensor FAN is that why the Driver side Fan did not work.

Or do I have a problem with one of the FANS???

If it is a FAN... Easy fix... Replace the FAN, if it is not a FAN what else could it be and how do I check.

Thanks

 

[blackbyrd]

I have a 93 turbo, but I think I can help you out. If you turn the ignition switch to on, and press the ac button and turn up the blower, it SHOULD turn on both fans I believe. On my car the drivers side is the A/C and the passanger the Radiator. I think the a/c switch turns on both fans, and the radiator just the one.. I could be wrong. Now I had a problem with my fans not comming on, and it turned out to be the temperature switch at the bottom tank of the Radiator(theres a little sensor that screws in and has a couple wires off of it). Try checking that switch out, and see if the a/c button turns on the fans. You might have a burnt relay or fuse.

 

[95TalonOwner]

Well I'm not sure about the fan, but you could start by getting a new thermostat, they are pretty cheap. Also, you could check your compression to see if your headgasket is going.

 

[ddavisaf]

You need to start another thread. You have more than one problem that will need to be troubleshot.

 

[sacman11]

I dont believe it would be my headgasket, as I just replaced the HEAD and HEAD GASKET due to a TIMING BELT going and casuing the old one to have bent valves.

Since the replaced head job the car has ran fine for about two months. Nothing burning and no problems.

I am not burning antifreeze, and my levels have been good, I think it is just a minor probelm with the FAN or a switch.

I checked the fuses and the RELAY (Switch the RELAYS from the Headlights and they both work so no a relay)

It must be the FAN, the THERMOSTAT, or the THERMO switch at the bottom of the Rad.

Can anyone confirm that the

RAD FAN is Passenger Side, and the AC Condensser Fan is Driveside?

Is there anyway to test to see if it is the Thermostat or the Thermo Switch without trying new ones?

Thanks

 

[blackbyrd]

Did you jump both the fan motors, or just the one?
Did you try your a/c button to see if that turned on the fans?
If not, the fault is either in the thermo switch, the relay, or wirring harness.
The thermostat plays no role in turning on your fans, if your car was above normal operating temperature and your fans would not turn on.(unless MAYBE its staying closed and the coolant in your radiator isnt getting hot enough to trigger the switch, but I don't know about that) Check that easily by if your engines warm but the upper radiator pipe isnt, or you can pop your cap and see if it's flowing, or you can take it out and put it in some boiling water and see if it opens)
Check the thermo switch by turning the ignition switch in ON, and removing the connector on the switch, bridge the terminals with a paperclip, it should turn on the fans.
if not..
Check the fan motor by jumping it, if that doesnt work, connect a jumper wire from terminals 2/4 on the radiator relay terminals, does it work?
Check the radiator fan relay, and connect a jumper wire from terminal 2 to the batter positive terminal, and connect terminal 4 to the negative battery terminal.
.
1 2
3 4
Use an ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminals 1 and 3, there should be continuity.
Remove the battery leads, check for continuity between 1 and 3, there shouldn't be.
Also, check for continuity between terminals 2 and 4, there should be continuity.
If the results are incorrect replace the relay, if they're good its your thermo switch.

To check the thermo-switch, unplug the connector, with the engine cold, use an ohmmeter and check for continuity across the terminals, there should be none. Let the engine get warm and check for continuity, there should be it.

And yes, like I said, A/C condensor fan is driverside, Radiator fan is passenger..
Good Luck!

 

[smokey8667]

I agree on the compression test and by the way, why sont you go to autozone and get the cooling system pressure tester from there loan a tool program and test the cap and the entire system for problems instead of starting to buy parts right away. You wont be out anything when take it back. I swear it sounds like the problem I had and it was just the low relay not allowing the fans to come on until the coolant temp got over like 215 or so. By the time they came on the car had gotten to hot to really cool back down good. Just a thought.

 

[Gamble97]

I just put a new motor in, new water pump. I used the same radiator, hoses, thermostat housing and thermostat. I have the autozone thermostat 170 in there for about 6 months and never had a problem with it. After the new motor is in, now it's overheating at idle. The fan is on and she is still hitting 225*+.
The overflow I have is just a empty bottle because there is no room w/ my front mount.
How should I attempt to fix this? I tried new coolant and bled the system. I had no pressure after I shut the car off and took the cap off, so I bought a new cap also.
Also, I'm looking for a small coolant overflow tank if anyone knows of a good one.
Thanks

edit: I also saw a thread about drilling holes in the thermostat ? However, I can't find it anymore.

 

[JLangevin]

Are you sure its really overheating? For instance, I thought I was when I saw 222*f on OBDGauge, I replaced almost my entire cooling system when I finally compared Thermal Laser Temp Gauge on the Thermostat housing and compared it with the OBDGauge... they were off by almost 40* at times...

You are probably not building pressure because at idle, the car never really got enough to fully open the thermostat.

Anyways, The thermal gauge showed my upper hose temps at around 199-200* at idle, and 175-179*f at the thermostat which is right where its supposed to be. I now use PalmNStein and show anywhere from 195-206* in the summer heat with AC on...

So... you probably are NOT overheating... if you where, when you turned off the car, you would hear a massive amount of boiling in the cooling system...