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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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SleepingTsi94 said:
I got a brand new engine in my car. And I over heat. What are some of the causes? Is my front mount blocking the radiator to much? I turn the heat on full blast and it cools down to operating temp. Whats going on here. Is my belt slipping?
Under what conditions? All the time? Only when it's really hot outside? Highway? Stopped in traffic?
 
It does it while crusing at times. It squeeks here and there but not constant. I double check all my bolts on the waterpump pulley and it just slip right across the belt? Instead making a attemp to tighten. I tightend the belt down some more. What could cause this?
 
I noticed my car getting really hot when the temperature here in pheonix went over 105. I have minor mods which are listed in my profile. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap, did a coolant flush, ran different antifreeze/water mixtures and still get temperatures in the 220's while driving. I changed the radiator with a 2.5 inch aluminum radiator from option racing and still the car gets just as hot. The car gets hotter on the highway than it does on the streets. If i don't use my AC the car stays a lot cooler but as I mentioned it is hot out here in Phoenix. I also did a hydrocarbon test and i didn't have any exhaust gases in the coolant system. I have checked my water pump for leaks and there aren't any. My colling fans are fine and kick in when the are supposed to.

I'm out of ideas now. What could be the sorce of my problem? I talked to ther 2g turbo owners and they say their cars run fine in the heat with the AC on.
 
rgirard413 said:
ok, ive change the radiator, radiator cap and thermostat and the temp gauge still fluctuates, but actually worse than it used to. Basically the synopsis is that ill drive adn the gauge will move up some and then back down, particularly when at a stop. I'm not sure what else i can replace at this point. Some of my friends thought it might be the water pump. Could it be that or not enough coolant in the car?


I'm having the same problem you are... it fluctuates to like 3/4 the way up and scares me. But it will come back down at idle usually. How did you fix it if indeed it's fixed. Thanks.
 
Well I just purchased a 2g GSX and am having an issue with overheating. I have gotten it about 7/8th's the way up the gauge but since then I have replaced the thermostat, givin the system a flush (me just pouring water through hte hoses and such), replaced the cap, and put in water wetter. It seems to have helped a bit as the temps go no farther than 3/4 the way up the gauge but it still seems to be too hot as when it is at those temps the coolant is boiling (you can hear it and feel it after the car is cut off). It seems to only go up (and sometimes down) when I am driving and at idle it just stays constant. The fans ARE cutting on. I am kinda stumped as to what is causing my coolant temps to rise. I live in GA so the ambient temps are rather hot. At night when I go driving, the gauge stays at normal temp level. But I find it hard to believe that it is OK for my coolant to be boiling when driving during the day. I shoudl do a compression test but I am unfamiliar with which fuse to pull for spark and fuel. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I'm in the same boat as you are. I suggest you check for hydrocarbons in your coolant because you can have decent compression and still get some exhaust gasses leaking into your coolaning system. I rented a hydrocarbon (they call it a block tester) tester from autozone. It is very easy to use and you will know if you have a leaking headgasket in about 2 minutes.

Hope this helps.
 
Was there a lot of rust on your cooling system?
If the answer is yes, your water pump blades might be eaten out, therefore not allowing water to circulate.
just my 2 cents!
good luck, also do the smell check, if your coolant smells like fuel or exhaust fumes. Then is head gasket time!
 
did the block tester come with the testing fluid? Because I drove to get one tonight and there was no testing fluid with it. If not where do you get the testing fluid.


BTW: I took the car for a spin tonight and it does better at night, but it still overheats. Under normal driving and lower boost levels it doesn't want to overheat that much... just ever so slightly... But once you get on it it tends to jump up a lot more. I also let the car idle before I cut it off and the temp went down! So it seems I am only havin this problem when driving. I guess I can rule the fans out.
 
for one thing its no where on the IC piping LOL, i know what u mean though if u follow the lower radiator hose to the housing t-stat is there, you replaced the right part, the t-stat is just in a slightly different location on the 2g, the diagram u posted above refers to the 1g.
 
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