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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
flytalon93 said:
Well it could if its not opening to let in the cooler fluid from the radiator. All its doing to recycling the same fluid in the block. Best way to test it is to remove it and put into a pot of water on the stove and heat it up to see if it opens.



Doing so now.
 
Ok well I have another issue with this damn car. It keeps overheating. I drove it home form lincoln to omaha and noticed the temp guage going up. So I pull over and shut it down. Get out and hear boiling coolant in the overflow resivor. So anyway I slowlly release pressure on the main thermostat housing and get it open and see it to be empty. Just great... so I call the wife she comes and gets me and I go buy some coolant. Come back fill it up and let it run for a bit with the cap off to try and work som bubles out. This is the first time driving it more than 10 miles after a HG, and a head job.

Anyway get it home drain the coolant and resivoir and then change the thermostat. Then refill the bastard. Keep the cap off and turn it on. Let it run for about 10-15 mins with the cap off working the bubbles out. Looks like its all good so I take it for a drive. Go a few miles or so get out and pop the hood just to check stuff out. The overflow is now full when it had just a little bit in it when I left home. So I take the car home wathching the guage and it stays dead middle. Get it in the garage and the damn resivor is now got boiling coolant in it.

So I say #### YOU DSM and go to bed. Wake up this morning, check for leaks... none. Open the thermostat cap and it's empty again... so I poor a little bit in to cap it off. Then I check the resivoir and it is half full now... but last nigth it was to the top full.

Does anyone have any idea what could be happening? Do I have a ton of air trapped somewhere in kthe system? THe system doesn't lea anywhere, and it doesn't seem to be burning it... no smell and not exhaust color change.
 
Would having a thermostat/fill cap that does not have a pressure release valve in it cause this? Like if air in the system came to the top and was not able to release out the valve, instead just blocks coolant flow and forces it into the over flow?
 
I can see the t-stat open and flow start. I don't think you can put the t-stat in wrong can you?

As far as the head goes. It was done at a very good machine shop and checked for cracks and they said it is good. New HG is on ARP studs at 85FT LBS.

I guess my questions is should the cap on the thermostat housing have a valve iun it to releive air pressure? My old 1G had oine but this car does not.
 
yes it is possible to put in in backwards but if you see it flowing when it hsould, you're fine.
the cap should have method of releasing pressure should it build up to a high enough level. but if you are overheating, then maybe the cap doesn't hold pressure, becuase pressure keeps you from boiling. try a new cap.
 
OH YEAH, dont[' worry too much about the levels in the overflow tank/reservoir. that will always change on a daily basis and temperature variance. just look at your fill point a nd if it's full, you're fine it you're not overheating. you will ocntinue to add some for a couple days as the system purges itself of air. if you're not overheating now and the fill point is topped up, you should be fine.
 
1995 GSX with 6 bolt swap.

The car is fine running around town but when I stay at a constant 3k RPM's the check engine light comes on. The DSM link says it is a Knock Sensor Malfunction. About a minute later the heat starts rising and eventually I have to pull over, wait for it to cool, then add water.

This all started happening after the inlet in my radiator busted off and I replaced it with one out of a GST I had laying around.

I have checked for leaks, replaced the thermostat, and bought a brand new radiator... And I still continue to have this problem.

Thank all of you for any help you can provide,

Tyler
 
if it was a problem with the water pump shouldnt it be blowing cold air when you turn on the heater? because the pump wouldnt be pushing hot water through the heater core?
 
POlarSource said:
I am going to go ahead and replace the water pump. If anyone has any advice on the install I would greatly appreciate it.

Drain coolant (duh). Take off the necessary parts to get the timing belt cover off. Take off the pulley for the water pump (10mm). The bolts for the water pump will be a pita to access. For a 6 bolt, just make sure you get a gasket for the 1g. Nothing really too tricky about it imho.
 
Before doing a water pump make sure there are no internal head gasket leaks. Your coolant might be going into the engine and out the tail pipe.
 
there is a kit that has a resivoier that is filled with a special liquid that is placed in the radiator fill hole. It allows you to draw air from the radiator to check for exhaust gasses.
It is called a block test.
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm
Here is crummy link but it shows the tool.
call around to a few shops and they might have one.
It only takes a few minutes to do.
 
water pumps are way easy. make SURE THAT YOU REPLACE TIMING BELT ALONG WITH IT!! its a must.
But one sign to see if the pump is bad, wiggle it a bit. if it wiggles, then its bad. also, check the pressure in your radiator. i know that i had severe over heating problems after my car was painted, becuase my radiator got plugged from the dust related to painting my car. Also check your thermostat. if its bad, then thats an easy fix for most over heating problems.
 
ECLIPSEESPILCE said:
there is a kit that has a resivoier that is filled with a special liquid that is placed in the radiator fill hole. It allows you to draw air from the radiator to check for exhaust gasses.
It is called a block test.
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm
Here is crummy link but it shows the tool.
call around to a few shops and they might have one.
It only takes a few minutes to do.

Isn't this tool used to find out if you have a bad head gasket? If so, wouldn't I see if it was bad when I did a compression test?
 
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