Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

ok imagine urself facing the engine, only the right fan turns on when the a/c is on, the left one is the one that comes on automaticly and is the only one that comes on whenever it wants, how do i jump these wires? now the lil black screw to drain the coolant from the radiator jus broke from the heat, so i have small leak as we speak..is there some kind of temporay fix for that im really short on cash....=/ like some kind of high heat glue something that can handle intesnse heat? thanks for your help!

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

well i jus bought some stuff for the radiator to keep it from leaking, but besides that i think its my rad. fan thats not working right, i would be ok if i drive with my a/c on right? cause the a/c fan does come on...and for some reason now both fans come on with the a/c, its driving me crazy!! but let me know whats up about the relay jump..i wanna learn how 2 do that thanks

 

[DSM90AWD]

I can't find the link (might be a VFAQ).. but Mark Steinbauch (aka Purple Plymouth Guy) put a jumper in the fan relay which would cause both fans to kick on when the cooling fan was triggered.

As for the leak.. might get away with some JB weld or Radiator Sealor. Best would be to take to a repair shop and have them weld it up.

 

[ITSME4G63]

Pop your hood whilke your car is on, tap the throttle to see if any hoses are broken and leadking coolant,

 

[1Gtuner1G]

I've asked 3 different master techs, and before I told them what some other guy said they told me either clogged radiator or blown head gasket. It is making sense now about the head gasket being bad, damn hope it isn't TOO hard to do.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

hey thanks guys for the help, well all my hoses are fine, the sealant for the radiator is good so far..imma jus drive with the a/c on for awhile till i get paid again... Then im gonna jus buy the relay swicth for the fan and jus hit the junkyard buy a used fan...This should get rid of my problem..thanks again

 

[gstrb91]

what if exhaust is leaking into the radiator is how would i fix that?

 

[kyledykstra]

what if exhaust is leaking into the radiator is how would i fix that?

Pull the head off and replace the head gasket

 

[GreenTurbulence]

Hey guys, I know there are a few threads on overheating issues, but none of them really answered my question. Here's my deal: my car while driving in the city, heats up to 213 F which is when it decides to trigger the fan on and then it cools down to 206-210 and the whole process repeats again and again. I assume this is normal, even though people on average say that their city temperatures don't go beyond 210 ever and they stay between 206-210. Ok, when I'm on the highway, 65+ mph, it heats all the way up 222 F, to the point that the temp needle moves like 2 mm above the center and then after a minute or 2 it cools down to 217-219 and then it repeats again and again while cruising on the highway. The point is that I had never seen my car go up to 222 F, and therefore I went ahead and replaced my thermostat with a new one (180 F), but it will still do it. The fan is coming on, which eliminates fan failure, and my water pump is only about a year old, plus the coolant seems to be circulating because the car isn't really overheating by much, if you could call a 2mm-needle-movement "overheating" at all. I only want to know if this is normal, and does anyone recommend a radiator flush and put a new mixture of coolant and water in? All advices are highly appreciated. Thanks for reading guys.

Etien

 

[Agent Ezzard]

When I installed my FMIC I noticed that my coolant temps would trigger my CEL (dsmlink) to come on at 213*. This only occured when I hit boost in somewhat hot weather. The obvious culprit was the reduced flow cause by the IC. I topped off my coolant and made my fans run on high continuously and that seemed to cure my problem. I have since then upgraded radiators and one fan due to a change in my setup. I am wondering if you made a change to your setup to cause some type of excess heat in the engine bay or reduced flow over the radiator. I also would say that I have had success with "WaterWetter" from Redline.

Verdict: First try a complete coolant drain and fill with a bottle of WaterWetter. With the correct mixture it may drop your temp a few degrees. If it doesn't then check your fans.

 

[GreenTurbulence]

Hey dude thanks for replying, ok, here are the last changes I made to my engine bay right before the problem happened: I put a FMIC (just like you did, and I guess it reduced the air flow to the radiator), and I installed a t3/t04e 50 trim, with an external wastegate on the manifold but the dump tube is all the way to the ground, it's not dumping on the radiator or any components. Initially I thought that a bigger turbo may cause the slight overheating, but then if you think about it, the 50 trim is not water cooled, hence it should have no effect on the water temp. Nevertheless, since it's oil-cooled, and since the oil that passes through the turbo is now a lot hotter and passes through the engine as well, it could be possible that the heat dissipation from (now hotter) oil onto the coolant may cause it to rise a few degrees. Tell me what you think, and please tell me where I can get water wetter as soon as possible. Thanks again.

 

[GreenTurbulence]

Oh by the way, my fans seem to be fine. Is there any way to measure the performance of the engine fan? It's turning on when it's supposed to, and the AC fan I just replaced with a SBR slim fan, but considering the fact that I don't use AC, it's barely ever on.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

You're seeing higher coolant temps as a result of the IC impeding the flow of air over the radiator. Turbo oil does not have an effect on coolant temps. You may want to look into getting some higher flowing fans (although stockers are hard to beat), contuous fan operation, or a 97-99 bumper conversion. WaterWetter can be had a most local auto supply chains. I know there is a Discount on Tower Rd that should have it as well as the Pepboys on Newberry & Tower.

Even though Florida gets very hot and muggy, I've only used my AC for about 2 hours furing the life of me owning my car. That being said I removed all AC related componets including the condenser which helped airflow reach the radiator. I also stuck a pusher fan on the opposite side of the radiator because my wastegate/dumptube prohibits me from using a puller.

 

[Dan2]

Where I live, the summer temperatures average over 100F. I couldn't have an FMIC with stock radiator/fans, and keep my air conditioning... that's when I gave up and settled for my stock IC for now.

But to fight it a bit, I tried the following radiator fluids: 80% water, 20% coolant. Two bottles of Redline Water Wetter. This seemed to drop the temperatures significantly on my car... I bet it'll help even more in your situation.

 

[SlowSpyder]

anytime you put a fmic, most of the time you remove that black plastic right behind the bumper cover. That plastic is there to direct air to the radiator, so by taking that out the temps during highway driving will reach 220-222 degs. City driving will be ok because when it reaches 203-210 the radiator fan will kick in and if it goes above 210 both the radiator and a/c fan will turn on, thats whats stopping you from overheating during city driving, youll need to find a way to redirect air to your radiator. Try cutting up your black plastic shroud and forming it around your fmic.

 

[morrism]

Hey i need major help before i see the mechanic tomorrow, this guy is driving me nuts, this is the 3rd turbo install in less than a week,ok well i was riding on the interstate so i decided to accelerate,....boost but it wouldnt go pass 55k rpm, 10lbs, i knew something was wrong but all the guages looked fine, suddenly it lost almost all power so i had to pull over to the side of the road and foud out that my car OVERHEATED and in the picture provide that little hose i have clrcled burst, WHAT DO YOU THINK the PROBLEM WAS, and whats the purpose of this hose?

T25 with (1g actuator welded)

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[khsdm]

Picture Kind Of Sucks Bro, Better Pics Will Prob Get U Better Response. Just My Opinion. Some Else May Be Able To Help U With That Pic

 

[Slipstream]

bad picture but from what I can see it looks like the coolant supply line to the turbo. As to why it broke, it's just rubber, as with radiator hoses they tend to degrade over time especially with harsh crap like antifreeze running in them. Shouldn't be hard to replace, I'd be more concerned about damage to the engine and the turbo from overheating.

 

['98 AWD DSM]

Looks like the coolant line to the turbo to me a well

 

[1fast97gsx]

coolant line to the turbo ... chances are the car overheated because the hose broke and all the coolant leaked out leaving you with none in there. Check your coolant level.

 

[morrism]

hey thanks for the response guys, yes the coolant is low also the car seems to crank but it only stay on for a short minute and the temp continue to rise. When i accelerate it sounds like something grinding and the rpm struggles to go up, if this helps

 

[Goobdog]

After looking at the picture several times it looks like they have the coolant line blocked off, is this correct or am I seeing it wrong ?

 

[morrism]

yes im not sure where it goes because i got a custom intake put on and i dont know if it was orginally like that. Can anyone answer this? whats the worse thing could happen when your car overheats and what would the damage cost to fix?

 

[98FWDSM]

hey, I have a 98 GST and I just replaced the thermostat and i got a fluidyne radiator and 2 12" slim line fans and everything is working perfectly....at highway speeds the car is perfect but if I leave the car idling while sitting still it will start to rise on the temperature gauge, not up high, it hasnt yet gone past the top of the little boat thing on the stock gauge and sometimes during city driving it will overheat a little bit...like I said, it works fine at all other times, the fans are blowing fine and in the correct direction and I have plenty of coolant....I am having a leak down test done tomorrow morning because the only other thing that i think that it could be would be a head gasket???

Thanks

 

[SlowSpyder]

What kind of thermostat did you put in? Oem? If you have a pocketlogger, what does your coolant temps read. I could just be a faulty gauge/sending unit. Another thing, does you fans properly work as in the radiator fan(passengerside) turns on. If you are only overheating during idle and city driving it could be your fans, meaning that you arent getting enought aiflow through the radiator to cool the car down. Thats why your car is fine at highway speeds. If you wanna check if your headgasket is blown and is leaking pressure into the cooling system just disconnect the knock sensor, remove the radiator cap and crank the car several times. If you see bubbles or coolant spewing out from the cap housing then you definitely have a head gasket problem.