Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[TheTSiGuy]

Is the fmic blocking your fans or did you remove a fan to fit it? Did your upgrade your fans?

Good point! Alot of these bigger fmics these days require fitment of a fan elsewhere.

 

[Streetburners91]

Which core is it? I had a Spearco 2-178 core before, and then sold to my buddy. He did some research, and found that quite a few people were having overheating problems due to the fact that the endtanks would restrict airflow so much, leaving the radiator to overheat.

Just a thought.

Its an Xtreme Imports a copy of the Spearoco with out the price

 

[TheTSiGuy]

Its an Xtreme Imports a copy of the Spearoco with out the price

What are the measurements? maybe we can compare it to a certain core that way.

 

[Streetburners91]

Is the fmic blocking your fans or did you remove a fan to fit it? Did your upgrade your fans?

No fan upgrades and did'nt have to remove the stock fans

 

[92awddsm]

Is the fmic blocking your fans or did you remove a fan to fit it? Did your upgrade your fans?

Someone fill me in on this one, on my 1g, the fmic is in front of the radiator and the fans are behind the radiator. Are you talking about for turbo outlet pipe clearance.

 

[Streetburners91]

What are the measurements? maybe we can compare it to a certain core that way.

I believe it is 31"L X 5"T X 3" W with 2" inlet & outlet exiting the rear

 

[Streetburners91]

Someone fill me in on this one, on my 1g, the fmic is in front of the radiator and the fans are behind the radiator. Are you talking about for turbo outlet pipe clearance.

You are correct, but can you help me solve the problem any suggestions

 

[flinguist]

I've read of some people having success lowering coolant temperatures with a cooler thermostat and Redline water wetter. Try doing a little research at this and other websites ( rmdsm.org, team NABR, DSM Talk, DSM Life). Good luck.

 

[Streetburners91]

I've read of some people having success lowering coolant temperatures with a cooler thermostat and Redline water wetter. Try doing a little research at this and other websites ( rmdsm.org, team NABR, DSM Talk, DSM Life). Good luck.

My next step will be to go with a cooler t-stat, but what is Redline water wetter and where can I get it and how much?

 

[flinguist]

Here's a copy of something I just read, that sounds like it might help also: "The easiest way to cure a cooling issue with a FMIC is to modify the stock air dam around the FMIC. Most IC kits tell you to remove this part and throw it out but don't do it. I have been through this and anohter guy on the DSMLINK board went through this as well and after modifying the air dam problem solved. Remember when you remove this there is nothing to force the air to go straight to the radiator it will go just about anywhere it can. In my case I ended up fabing an air dam since I had thrown mine away and this cured my problem as well as fabing a heat shield since I have a T3/T4 setup. I have run as high as 223F and had tried different thermostat, radiator cap, water wetter, purple ice, DEI coolant additive, all kinds of mixes of coolan/water, you name it I have tried it and nothing worked better than when I did the air dam. Now my car runs between 193F and 196F while driving. This is with a T3/T4 setup and big radiator which means the turbo is a lot closer to the radiator then someone running the stock radiator and a similar to stock turbo with stock Exh manifold."

 

[Streetburners91]

I've read of some people having success lowering coolant temperatures with a cooler thermostat and Redline water wetter. Try doing a little research at this and other websites ( rmdsm.org, team NABR, DSM Talk, DSM Life). Good luck.

Ok update! just installed a medium t-stat (180 deg.) and noticed it drove longer and did not redline, but had to turn heater fan to draw some of the temp out.
Added the Redliner water wetter and it reduced the temp also; I have ordered a low temp t-stat which opens at (160 deg) and tomorrow morning I will install it. I beleive that with the low temp t-stat plus the Redliner water wetter the problem will be fixed; will update tomorrow with final results Thanks to all who responded!!!

 

[leet]

Build a shroud which forces the air exiting the intercooler (not your intake air, atmospheric) directly into the radiator, leaving that air no where to go but through it.

You could use whatever materials you can find, durability may vary on materials used.

Or put a low pressure inducing vent on your hood, to facilitate movement of air through the radiator out of the engine bay. Only problem I can see occuring with this is that the air underneath the car will simply keep going out the vent, instead of the air coming through the front. You could fashion up trays for underneath the car to reduce the chance of this occuring. That's a LOT of work though.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Fluidyne

 

[eclipsegsx9797]

dude ive had the same problem in the past, try each of these things and if they dont work go to a dejon smic , fluydine, redline water wetter, new rad cap, fal fans, lower temp termastate. if these dont work you sol

 

[flinguist]

Ok update! just installed a medium t-stat (180 deg.) and noticed it drove longer and did not redline, but had to turn heater fan to draw some of the temp out.
Added the Redliner water wetter and it reduced the temp also; I have ordered a low temp t-stat which opens at (160 deg) and tomorrow morning I will install it. I beleive that with the low temp t-stat plus the Redliner water wetter the problem will be fixed; will update tomorrow with final results Thanks to all who responded!!!

Excellent!

 

[LandoAWD]

On a side note, have you verified your fans are plugged in and operational?

 

[4g64GST]

the stock rad. cap is 16 psi i believe
greddy makes a 19 psi cap
the shop that I use alway goes with the higher psi cap after a rebuild


they lost a new motor a few yrs back because customer did not see the gauge and fried it on the 50 mile drive home.

for some reason not sure why it just over heats with the old factory rad. cap.

hope this helps

 

[Streetburners91]

Update! Problem is now fixed. I installed a new low (160 deg) t-stat and still no change; so I noticed that when I turned the AC on to allow the other fan to blow it balanced out, which means no internal problems well I noticed that the engine was extremely hot and did a search on hood scoops and saw a great DIY MOD on hood vents. Well I completed that much needed mod and it works great and looks great visually; it allows the engine bay to release the heat and allows the gutted air box to intake air at a much cooler rate which means more HP. Will post picts soon.

I am also going to try and wire the AC fan to turn on with the rad fan and still keep its functionality; will give update on success! (Why spend all that money installing a new rad, fan, cap, & t-stat when all we need to do is access the AC fan (for those with AC) which is already there and cut the needed vents in the hood for around $15 and 2-3 hours of your time????)

 

[flinguist]

Glad to hear the problem is solved. Good job.

 

[mugne85r]

Hey guys, we took my friends 1992 Laser FWD Turbo out this weekend to a meet. On the way there, at 120-130km/h the motor seems good...but once my friend goes past 130km/h then the engine temp gauge goes up 3/4 way

Does anybody know what could be causing this overeheating issue???
is this a known problem with lasers?

thanks
bartek

 

[mugne85r]

anybody??? I searched and what I found is the best would be to do a coolant flush and if it continues replace the thermostat

 

[spooner_dee]

most likely just the thermostat, i had the same problem with my car, cruising was fine, but once i started going faster, the thermostat failed to open and my engine began to overheat, would reach about 3/4 the way up b4 the coolant would be released, i replaced it, runs perfect now

 

[realhp=turbo]

Replace the radiator cap aswell. It keeps the boiling point high thus requiring more heat than usual to boil.

 

[Spanky7829]

Hey my car is really getting hot. Like my gauge just goes below the redzone. So i check my coolant and it was low so i filled it up. But then i noticed my fans havent been turning on AT ALL. I gave my fans power directly from the battery and they work. Checked all the fuses and good. But then i check the power coming from the wires and i couldnt get anything from my tester. Does anyone know why its not sending power. I also check my thermostat and it looks fine. Thanks let me know

 

[luv2rallye]

Most likely 1) bad engine coolant temp sensor, or 2) bad radiator fan relay, or 3) bad/missing connector on them.