Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[91eagle_tsi_awd]

thanks alot.im also gonna take the car to a friend of mine who is a mechanic to see if its the head gasket.i doubt it tho but you never know

 

[JaMoDSM]

well, something busted around my belts, i'm thinking waterpump. I hope its something simple. My car got so hot that it started leaking around there, maybe something cracked or warped or broke i hope its not that expensive.

 

[HondaKiller]

Sounds like your timing could be off, maybe your belt skipped a tooth. that would explain a rough idle, loss of power, etc.

 

[JuiceGsTurbo024]

well does not sound good! your car should not over heat! that is really bad! bec like you said it can warp your head or do some major damage? if the engine light is coming on go to autozome or some where they can pull the code? and see what the car is telling you is wrong? and check your idle? and taking out the honey comb makes you run richer? i beliave? so when you do to many things to your car at onces its not going to like it? and do you got an A/f? controller? well good luck and i hpoe you find the problem!

 

[92Talon251]

Sounds like you got a Mess pulling out your honey comb WILL cause a bad idle. and as far a taking to to auto zone it wont do any good. They only read codes for 95 + found that out when they tried to read mine. I took mine to the dealer cost me $35 read the ECU but it sounds like your water pump has gone bad i can give you a few sites that sell new OEM parts Cheap

http://catalog.mitsubishi-parts-wholesale.com/?make=MI&year=1991&Submit=Search+Now

Hope it helps

 

[baccam]

thanks for the reply guys. i did the intak leak test. it's my head gasket. makes sense cause i just remembered that the day it first started overheating was when i turned up the boost to 15psi. thanks a lot everybody for taking your time to help me.

 

[JaMoDSM]

thanks for the info, i got my mechanic to put some computer he got from mitsubishi and he says that I got some sensor that is bad, i guess it couldn't pick up the water pump, but ima do that first and see what happens. ill update once i get it done... thanks again

 

[Black_Havoc]

My water pump just failed. It sounded like a lot of grinding, like metal on metal, got it off and bearings fell out all chewed up. PS when it went coolant went everywhere, like a little explosion. Its a PITA to install. I'm still waiting on the parts to put the timing belt back on. hope I don't jack that up, I cant afford a new head and pistons.

 

[JaMoDSM]

ok well, my water pump was defective as for the overheating and leaking problem

my idle surging-i need to change out my throttle open/close sensor

i have oil in my 1st shaft where my spark plug is, i hope i don't have a bad head gasket.

sputtering and rough driving still haven't narrowed it down much

oh and as far as timing is concerned and jumping teeth, i did that TDC on my 1st pulley and on my cam pulleys one isn't pointing directly up, and the little timing marks in the middle aren't together, they're like 1 tooth off. think i should move it over one?

 

[Black_Havoc]

ok well, my water pump was defective as for the overheating and leaking problem

my idle surging-i need to change out my throttle open/close sensor

i have oil in my 1st shaft where my spark plug is, i hope i don't have a bad head gasket.

sputtering and rough driving still haven't narrowed it down much

I had that oil in my #3 and #4 cylinder holes. Its just due to the vibration working the valve cover nuts out. Grab a Chilton's manual, and torque then back down to spec. I think theres 10, 10MM bolts that you have to loosen then tighten back to 5 or 6 inch lbs. INCH LBS not FT LBS. I'm not near my Chilton's right now or I would scan the page and send it to you. Check it before you tighten it. With a bad head gasket you would be mixing water and oil, your dip stick would look a creamy grey color. As for that sputtering, how are your spark plugs and wires? I hear the Magnecore 10MM wires, and the BPR6ES NGK plugs fix most sputtering issues. I got my plugs at Shucks, which is also Checker, & Kragen.

 

[nathanstl]

OK I just changed the thermostat in my car to see if that would ifx the overheating problem, but it didnt and now my heat doesnt work. Also the overflow container for the coolant was boiling pretty bad when I shut it down and it was at the top of normal , but not in the red. I inspected and the lower radiator hose was cool and the upper was HOT! What does this mean, I have a brand new thermostat!

 

[Redmachine]

water pump.... You are not getting any coolant moving thru your system.

 

[elaments]

My belt snapped off and I lost my power steering and a/c and my temperature rose. So I fixed the belt and the temperature was still all the way at the top. So now I am stuck, I bought a new thermostat but have yet to put it on, do you think this will take care of my problem or could it have to do w/the water pump? The guy at autozone said it wasn't the waterpump tho cuz it wasn't the timing belt that snapped. Any info would be much appreciated.

 

[nined2tsi]

What belt snapped off? Just put the new stat in and see if it worked. It only take a few minutes. And just because the timing belt didnt snap doesnt mean the water pump is still good. Damn Autozone workers think they know everything. I quit goin in my local autozone because of that. At Advanced they know a little more on what they do.

 

[phishie]

Hey all,

Well I was showin my friend my '94 Talon (1g) NA and we both noticed it was running pretty hot. It wasn't up in the red but not far from it. I quickly parked it back home and noticed it was leaking coolant, a nice little puddle of it under the car. I couldn't see if it was from the overflow because it was at night but I'm fairly positive that's what it was from. There was a very apparent boiling/bubbeling sound coming from the radiator/thermostat tube.

Since then I have driven it a few times, if I drive it hard at all it's quick to get hot but otherwise it runs a little bit hotter than normal. I haven't driven it too much because I'm afraid of really testing it.

Some history on my 1g, I got it last year and it needed a good deal of work. The valves were bent from a broken balancing belt that threw the timing belt off, so I pulled the head, had it resurfaced and reseated. Put it all back together again with new valves and it's purred nicely since.

Now, I'm just trying to figure out where I should troubleshoot this over heating. I'm unsure if I should replace the waterpump, the radiator or what. I'm fairly certain the head gasket is fine since it was replaced no more than a year ago. The radiator is pretty old and corroded so despite the source I think I'll replace it anyways. Only one of the two fans on the radiator works, but it's been that way ever since I got it. Basically what I'm asking is if you guys think this is caused by the radiator, the water pump, or a combination of both?

Thanks in advance!
Trevor

 

[jott5555]

make sure your rad fans are comming on. drain and replace your coolant. new rad cap, new thermostat. make sure you dont have anything plugging up in your coolant system.

last but not least do a compression test. kinda sounds like the head gasket to me.

 

[nutshot]

When you show off your well running DSM, the gremlins come out... Rent a witchdoctor and start offering your car fresh chicken sacrifices.

 

[TheTSiGuy]

Ok gang..

As of recently my talon has been having an ever so slight overheating problem. The temp needle will move to the hot side about 1-1.5 needlewidths, and cycle back down to normal temp. Dont know what it is.

So, I first checked coolant level. All Good. Radiator is brand spankin new. Radiator fan is working.

I pulled off the thermostat housing to take a look at my thermostat. perhaps it rusted? No. It looks nice and shiny and working fine.

So i dont know what to do, and if i should worry. what next? the needle keeps on wavering between normal and a wee bit warm.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Psi'dGS-T]

I have the same issue. It gets a little warm every once and a while, just a little bit above halfway on the stock gauge. I wouldn't wory too much about it, as long as it doesn't get really hot. I have a new water pump, new t-stat, and good radiator and it still happens.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Put a bottle of Water Wetter in it from auto parts store. Then fill up with coolant.

 

[Defiant]

Only use 1/3 coolant in the summer, nothing cools so well as water.

Sounds like normal thermostat fluctuation that you've just noticed. Still, cheap to toss in a new one.

 

[Gula]

Any luck in finding the problem? I have the same issues.

Thanks

 

[Streetburners91]

Ok just did a complete overhaul on my 91 talon; replaced almost everything with new(check list)>head hot tanked, block machined 20 over with 1G rods and coated Nippon race pistons, 272 cams, adjustable cam gears, Evo springs w/titan retainers, SS valves, quiet lash adjusters, underdrive pulley, water pump, seals & bearings, ported Evo exhaust mani, ported o2 housing, 3" turbo back exhaust, Super 16G turgo, AME fuel rail, 560cc Evo Injectors, 255 fuel pump, AFPR w/gauge, Blitz BOV, Urathane mounts, all urathane vac/water lines, hks plugs & wires, coils, alt & battery, rebuilt ECU, ITP shift kit in tranny< every thing running fine with the exception of tranny not shifting properly due to faulty TPS, which is on order along with throttle body and IAC.

Just installed new FMIC and now the engine temp runs hot & idles hi after about 10 miles of driving the engine will idle at normal temp all day with no problem. Water pump is new, no lost of coolant, checked t-stat opens, checked timing, cap does'nt leak, no white smoke out of tail pipe, no mixed fluids, only boils over after load being applied and did not do this before installation of FMIC, WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM, just can figure this one out and have read many threads PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!!!!!! all this freakin money into this car and can only drive it 10 miles

PS! have VBC and Boost gauge to install yet.

 

[TheTSiGuy]

Ok just did a complete overhaul on my 91 talon; replaced almost everything with new(check list)>head hot tanked, block machined 20 over with 1G rods and coated Nippon race pistons, 272 cams, adjustable cam gears, Evo springs w/titan retainers, SS valves, quiet lash adjusters, underdrive pulley, water pump, seals & bearings, ported Evo exhaust mani, ported o2 housing, 3" turbo back exhaust, Super 16G turgo, AME fuel rail, 560cc Evo Injectors, hks plugs & wires, coils, alt & battery, rebuilt ECU, ITP shift kit in tranny< every thing running fine with the exception of tranny not shifting properly due to faulty TPS, which is on order along with throttle body and IAC.

Just installed new FMIC and now the engine temp runs hot & idles hi after about 10 miles of driving the engine will idle at normal temp all day with no problem. Water pump is new, no lost of coolant, checked t-stat opens, checked timing, cap does'nt leak, no white smoke out of tail pipe, no mixed fluids, only boils over after load being applied and did not do this before installation of FMIC, WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM, just can figure this one out and have read many threads PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!!!!!! all this freakin money into this car and can only drive it 10 miles

PS! have VBC and Boost gauge to install yet.

Which core is it? I had a Spearco 2-178 core before, and then sold to my buddy. He did some research, and found that quite a few people were having overheating problems due to the fact that the endtanks would restrict airflow so much, leaving the radiator to overheat.

Just a thought.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

Is the fmic blocking your fans or did you remove a fan to fit it? Did your upgrade your fans?