Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[jpmxrider489]

Do you have a link of this tool to test and see if theres exhaust gas in my coolant?

 

[horizontalkev]

Here is the tester and the fluid that goes with it. Normally you have to buy the fluid but the tester can be returned.

http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobi...-Block-Tester-Test-Fluid/_/N-25dh?switch=true

 

[jpmxrider489]

Ok Ill do that test hopefully tonight. But bubbles in coolant is saying head gasket right?

 

[horizontalkev]

Ok Ill do that test hopefully tonight. But bubbles in coolant is saying head gasket right?

No not necessarily.. I had bubbles come up from my radiator both in my gsx and Tiburon especially when I reved it more came up. But I always noticed it after refilling with antifreeze so I think it's just trapped air really. Now if you notice air.bubbles long after you've filled your radiator any, then I'd guess that would be trouble but idk for a fact. I used the tester on both vehicles and they passed.

 

[jpmxrider489]

They don't bubble unless I do the leak down test.

 

[SICK SOCIETY DSM90]

Ive been reading this problem and seems like the head gasket to me or a water pump letting go. Coolant doesn't just disappear in large amounts a little bit will over time but not all at once. The coolant is going somewhere. If your pressures are holding up then radiator is fine and that side of the system I would start looking at the water pump and possibly the head gasket. If the car has lots of miles on it anyways and hasn't had the head gasket replaced ever or not recently I would just go ahead and replace it for piece of mind. while your waiting on the head to be machined I would check out that water pump compared to a new one. That's just my personal opionion since every other test is coming out good except the compression test so its got to be somewhere in the block. Look for green slime and wet places on the motor even if it burns off and leaves no coolant on the ground you can still see where it burned off on or a path from which its coming from. hope this helps I will be watching for updates. Hope you can get your car back on the road.

 

[horizontalkev]

Yeah sick society is right. I am leaning more towards the water pump though. Also look for white spots or stains anywhere, that indicates coolant leak. If your head gasket is bad almost always either have white smoke/rough driving or you'll have milky stuff in your oil. One or the other or both.. If neither and you do NOT smell even the slightest hint of coolant, then your cars playing tricks on you. Are you putting coolant into it, or just water?

 

[jpmxrider489]

Oil is fine. Drives fine. When I did the leak down test, I saw bubbles but the pressure didnt go down.

 

[horizontalkev]

And you notice any white smoke at all? Like even the most slightest amounts of smoke?

 

[pfeifferj10]

Hi guys/ gals, this will be my first post on the site in the couple of months ive been registered. Its been a great help, tons of time spent reading up on things. So heres the problem im facing. I was on a nice 60 mile cruise going through the hills and such here in Alaska, and decided to head back. About 20 miles from town my car temp started to rise so I pulled her over to check the coolant out before it got too hot and it was just pouring coolant into the over flow. After 3 hours of starting and stopping to let it cool and adding water, pulled the t-stat out on the side of the road with only an adjustable wrench. and drove back to base. This temporarily kept the temps down but would fluxuate. I replaced the water pump, t-stat, rad cap, and burped the system. Thinking it was the pump when I revved to around 6k the temps could go down then rise again, didn't work all the time, but I figured the impeller was slipping on the shaft. Still overheating after all that jazz. I can drive it all day around base 35mph max and it wont overheat, even stayed cool just cruising down the highway 20mile drive, but if I boost too much then get off the highway it will start to rise, doesn't bury in the red but goes to the high point on gage and stays. I can let it run and it wont cool off with hood open and at idle. I noticed the upper hose is pressurized when its hot even with t-stat open Im not leaking anywhere except when its hot and I shutdown it pours out the overflow. Oil, coolant and exhaust are all clean. fluids moving when t-stat opens and fan is operational. Ive yet to pressure test it, thinking this could be a coolant passage leak in the hg? I haven't read any theads with the same issue. The system seems to be under a lot of pressure I let the cap vent after it gets hot and it takes over a minute just to let all the pressure out. Im running a single fan and godspeed alum rad. Never overheated until 2 weeks ago. Ideas? Thanks in advance!

 

[horizontalkev]

Is your fan working properly? Also, is it aftermarket and/or in its stock location? Your head gasket could be a problem though. Do these two things, first perform a leak down test and post the numbers be sure to see if your coolant rises during the test (with radiator cap off) and second Get a block tester from AutoZone to rent out and test for exhaust gases in your coolant. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope its not your headgasket

 

[carlos505]

About 4 months ago I replaced my thermostat with a cheap value craft thermostat That oped at 195f it started failing again. Two weeks ago I got a duralast that opens at 180 yesterday it was driving and at a light it got close to the "H" level but when light turned green it went back down, I also changed the temp fan sensor, I noticed that my lower radiator hose is ripped leaking a little bit of antifreeze but not a lot. Could that be the problem or my thermostat ? Also Napa sells an altrom imports "OEM" thermostat that opens at 180 should I try that ? Also I recently replaced my radiator as well.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Fix the leak because it isn't helping. Also did you burp the coolant system really good after all the work you did?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Does your lower radiator hose get warm after the thermostat opens..Does the thrmostat even open?

Ive gotten 3 bad t stats in a row from the local auto parts stores..I can almost bet its bad.

You have a leak so its not presurizing to the full extent.So fix the leak before anything else.

 

[carlos505]

Fix the leak because it isn't helping. Also did you burp the coolant system really good after all the work you did?

I didnt bleed anything maybe I should try that

 

[Bud92gsx]

Bleed, burp, push down on the front suspension to burp it.Always worked for me.

 

[carlos505]

Does your lower radiator hose get warm after the thermostat opens..Does the thrmostat even open?

Ive gotten 3 bad t stats in a row from the local auto parts stores..I can almost bet its bad.

You have a leak so its not presurizing to the full extent.So fix the leak before anything else.

I'm replacing the lower hose today after work and probably test the stat with boiling water

 

[pfeifferj10]

Is your fan working properly? Also, is it aftermarket and/or in its stock location?

It appears I have the stock fan an it kicks on and off like it should (passenger side)Only have 1 fan, a/c is removed, Ill see if oreillys or napa has the tester, no autozone up here. As for the leak test hopefully I can get time to do it this weekend and ill post results. thanks

 

[horizontalkev]

Oriellys should have it. Will be hoping for the best

 

[itbeatown]

just bought a 99 eclipse gst and its running really hot. Upwards of 210(close to it) going to get it home in the garage tonight. Anything in particular I should be looking for with this car? Anyone have the same issue?

 

[1davho]

Make sure that your fans are kicking on properly. If they are and your coolant level is good, I would change the thermostat.

 

[itbeatown]

I am especially getting a lot of heat off of the exhaust manifold. I dont know if the heat from that is building up under the hood and causing the temp gauge to read hot. Could be an issue?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I am especially getting a lot of heat off of the exhaust manifold. I dont know if the heat from that is building up under the hood and causing the temp gauge to read hot. Could be an issue?

You will get a lot of heat off the exhaust manifold. Exhaust temps can run at 1500 degrees, so yeah, a lot of heat there. That won't make your car overheat though. Are you sure the cooling system is full of coolant? Could be a partially clogged radiator, or just a poor performing radiator. Is it the original radiator? Maybe it's a good time to upgrade with a better radiator and a new thermostat.

 

[WES_393]

just bought a 99 eclipse gst and its running really hot. Upwards of 210(close to it) going to get it home in the garage tonight. Anything in particular I should be looking for with this car? Anyone have the same issue?

It's normal for these cars to run a hair over 200°. Your not in hot water (pun intended) until 212° or higher. If your running without a heat shield on the manifold and/or an aftermarket tubular manifold, then you can expect quite a bit of heat from that area. That can have a slight impact on the cooling system, but like Gravedigger said there's more effective ways to lower cooler temps.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I'll just throw out that i have 1/4 inch clearance from my sch10 manifold and the oem rad and I'm sitting at 180* with a 170* t stat and only one oem rad fan. Tubular manifolds creating high CT, is a load of crap IMO