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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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It didn't exactly overheat, fluid was low and sensor was not reading coolant, it was reading air. Faulty reading in other words. The leak is coming from the turbo center section where the coolant line meets at the bottom of turbo center section.

Remember when you shut off a car, there is still pressure in the cooling system and takes a while to cool off.
 
Running a little rich, and kinda bogging down and sputtering when boost is built at around 13-15 psi. Hallman mbc set at like 7 psi as low as it can go until I exoscan/ceddymods/ecuflash it. I can get to like maybe 55k rpm before it feels like a softer vewrsion of fuel cut... idk. No I am a fool. This fool ran it untuned. Like the day after I have this happen, my tactrix cable gets here... w/e

afpr set to upper 30's. I know 43 is stock, but I just got the car back and haden't finished adjusting.

Running through atlanta during rush hour and get stuck on exit. Car starts overheating, so I try to make it off. Well, the stock temp gauge stopped working, and overflow tank is steaming. So I stop and turn off car and let it cool down. Started her back up (very difficult) and drove her closer to home. The whole time, it feels like she is going to die on me while @ idle, and I hear the valves clicking like a mf'er. Finally I get her off the interstate and get stuck on the off ramp. I have it in a somewhat safe location.

Well, the radiator fans are also not working now. Bottom radiator hose is warm. Koyorad btw with some slim fans. 10" i think. I also have a Greddy fmic. its a larger core. This being said, I know that I'm going to have a HG issue as well as going to need to at least re-surface the head(decked). How about my bottom end? This thing is already bored out to the max and have just put in brand new wisecos less than 10k ago. If I need a new block, then I'm out of the dsm game, but if its ok, then I'll be in it for a while.

Knowing all this, this is my parts list
cometic or felpro hg kit.
143 degree thermostat
exhaust mani gasket
probably a classified's 2g head
new radiator and fans - as long as its all aluminum
smaller fmic
glowshift digital temp gauge
750 - 880 injectors
replacement wb sensor
Do the damn timing again
ngk spark plugs

Goals are 350 hp dd/cruiser highway queen. I'm going to downsize my fmic so I can put the A/C back in. I'm on a exedy oem replacement clutch rated for 300 hp, so I'll solve that issue once it arises.

Question #12039i4532
Will I need to have adjustable cams to adjust my timing using evoscan/ecuflash? Wha am i missing? Who wants to tackle this crazy ass thread? TYVM.

I've been having cooling issues since purchase. I'm considering using a vented hood as well as reversing polarities in fans to blow in from outside to help get air into the cold side(?) of fmic and have turbo side of fmic facing and working normally to help suck the dirty exhaust air out. I will be putting the a/c back in and would like to know if this will effect my cooling or function of radiator, fmic and condensor. I have too much cooling space right now and can't run a/c w/o it overheating, thus me downsizing my fmic core.
 
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Okay, so I'm having a $#!t load of bad luck right now LOL, in the past few days, I've had to replace my wheels,tires,alternator,and battery and my problems aren't stopping there! Lol ok so my laser has been overheating a lot lately, but it seems to be increasingly worse lately, first, my radiator fan quit working and I had to hard wire it to come on with the turn of the key, and I thought that would fix everything, but it didn't, I was out riding yesterday and I noticed the smell of hot coolant, and just ignored it, because I thought that it was just from over filling the reservoir , and I seen steam coming from the passenger side by the reservoir and also the drivers side, and I came to a stop, and the car died in the turning lane at a red light, and acted like it had a dead battery, and then I looked under the hood and seen steam coming from near the water pump, and coolant all over but I couldn't tell where it was leaking, an I tried to start it an it cranked right up, and made it to the gas station, where I tried to put a gallon of water into it, but it drank it all and somehow ended up all on the ground. The head gasket is dry, and luckily didnt blow out (that I could see) and I didn't see any coolant in any 4 cylinders, but I'm not sure what could cause it to be overheating like this and randomly leaking all of the coolant, it was holding coolant before, and now it isn't, any ideas?
 
Head gasket is toast. Good chance the head is extreamly warped at this point.

Pull the spark plugs out and spin the engine over with the starter, I would expect to see water shoot out the spark plug hole.

The gallon of water you added went one of a few places, On the ground from a busted hose, in the cylinder bores, or in the oil pan.
 
head gasket is toast. Good chance the head is extreamly warped at this point.

Pull the spark plugs out and spin the engine over with the starter, i would expect to see water shoot out the spark plug hole.

The gallon of water you added went one of a few places, on the ground from a busted hose, in the cylinder bores, or in the oil pan.


+1 on this...
 
Okay, so I'm having a $#!t load of bad luck right now LOL, in the past few days, I've had to replace my wheels,tires,alternator,and battery and my problems aren't stopping there! Lol ok so my laser has been overheating a lot lately, but it seems to be increasingly worse lately, first, my radiator fan quit working and I had to hard wire it to come on with the turn of the key, and I thought that would fix everything, but it didn't, I was out riding yesterday and I noticed the smell of hot coolant, and just ignored it, because I thought that it was just from over filling the reservoir , and I seen steam coming from the passenger side by the reservoir and also the drivers side, and I came to a stop, and the car died in the turning lane at a red light, and acted like it had a dead battery, and then I looked under the hood and seen steam coming from near the water pump, and coolant all over but I couldn't tell where it was leaking, an I tried to start it an it cranked right up, and made it to the gas station, where I tried to put a gallon of water into it, but it drank it all and somehow ended up all on the ground. The head gasket is dry, and luckily didnt blow out (that I could see) and I didn't see any coolant in any 4 cylinders, but I'm not sure what could cause it to be overheating like this and randomly leaking all of the coolant, it was holding coolant before, and now it isn't, any ideas?

Dear god I hope your wrong, I guess I'll do a compression test when I can get it back to the house, any chance it's just the water pump?

With what I put in bold, that you posted, I doubt that I am.

When the head comes off, pull the cams out, and fluid test the valves. I would almost bet the valves will leak on cyl 2 and 3 from the head being warped.


You kept going and ignored the warning signs of a issue.

I head gasket will not heal like a cut on your hand, it sounds like it has gotten progressively worse the more you drove.
 
well the thing that had me stumpped is i dont think i had drove enough to blow the gasket,i drove about 45 minutes spread over 3 days no longer than 20 minutes each time with a 3 hour wait time in between so idk, at this point im expecting the worse and hoping for the best LOL
 
running a little rich, and kinda bogging down and sputtering when boost is built at around 13-15 psi. Hallman mbc set at like 7 psi as low as it can go until i exoscan/ceddymods/ecuflash it. I can get to like maybe 55k rpm before it feels like a softer vewrsion of fuel cut... Idk. No i am a fool. This fool ran it untuned. Like the day after i have this happen, my tactrix cable gets here... W/e

afpr set to upper 30's. I know 43 is stock, but i just got the car back and haden't finished adjusting.

Running through atlanta during rush hour and get stuck on exit. Car starts overheating, so i try to make it off. Well, the stock temp gauge stopped working, and overflow tank is steaming. So i stop and turn off car and let it cool down. Started her back up (very difficult) and drove her closer to home. The whole time, it feels like she is going to die on me while @ idle, and i hear the valves clicking like a mf'er. Finally i get her off the interstate and get stuck on the off ramp. I have it in a somewhat safe location.

Well, the radiator fans are also not working now. Bottom radiator hose is warm. Koyorad btw with some slim fans. 10" i think. I also have a greddy fmic. Its a larger core. This being said, i know that i'm going to have a hg issue as well as going to need to at least re-surface the head(decked). How about my bottom end? This thing is already bored out to the max and have just put in brand new wisecos less than 10k ago. If i need a new block, then i'm out of the dsm game, but if its ok, then i'll be in it for a while.

Knowing all this, this is my parts list
cometic or felpro hg kit.
143 degree thermostat
exhaust mani gasket
probably a classified's 2g head
new radiator and fans - as long as its all aluminum
smaller fmic
glowshift digital temp gauge
750 - 880 injectors
replacement wb sensor
do the damn timing again
ngk spark plugs

goals are 350 hp dd/cruiser highway queen. I'm going to downsize my fmic so i can put the a/c back in. I'm on a exedy oem replacement clutch rated for 300 hp, so i'll solve that issue once it arises.

Question #12039i4532
will i need to have adjustable cams to adjust my timing using evoscan/ecuflash? Wha am i missing? Who wants to tackle this crazy ass thread? Tyvm.

I've been having cooling issues since purchase. I'm considering using a vented hood as well as reversing polarities in fans to blow in from outside to help get air into the cold side(?) of fmic and have turbo side of fmic facing and working normally to help suck the dirty exhaust air out. I will be putting the a/c back in and would like to know if this will effect my cooling or function of radiator, fmic and condensor. I have too much cooling space right now and can't run a/c w/o it overheating, thus me downsizing my fmic core.

holy ####in headache batman! Lmao
 
Sounds like we are almost in the same boat. Fml.. I'm pretty sure mine is my ems tho. I purchased a new tstat today and a heat blanket for the turbo. I am running a gt35 and it is inches away from the radiator. I'm hoping this will at least allow me to get it to the tuner..

Sounds like we are in the same boat. I ordered a new tstat and a heat blanket for my turbo today. I'm running a gt35 and its inches from my radiator. I'm hoping this will at least get me to the tuner...

I don't know why it posted like that?
 
Hmm well the good news is the car didnt blow a head gasket, bad news is I have no idea why it's overheating... I thought it was the thermostat, so I took off the elbow on the thermostat housing, but it seems the previous owner didnt even put a thermostat on it! What else could cause overheating?
 
There were no bubbles of death coming from the thermostat when fully warmed up, the compression is perfect and it drove perfect other than overheating, I left it sitting for a couple of days in the parking lot where i left it when I thought something was wrong and I drove it back to the house, and it ran perfect, but the coolant was steaming from the reservoir, which is my only idea of why I lost coolant, the water pump is no longer steaming any, I think i may have just been confused as to where the steam was actually coming from.
 
Rent or buy a coolant pressure tester. That way u can pinpoint leaks with out the car running.
All your coolant throttle body hoses not old and mushy?
Mine were old and ballooned def prone to leaking
 
Mines doing this as well, just randomly leaking, I can't see where as I just moved and have just a cruddy emergency tire jack, not trusting getting under the car with that.

I'll put some coolant and it will leak out from the bottom of the motor under the waterpump/alternator.

I'm almost for certain the water pump is trashed, as my temp guage says it only gets to 130 and it's normally 190/200

I pulled the rad cap off, started car, barely wanted to over flow, :(
 
I've tried either way, car runs cooler and more consistent with a Thermostat. Without it takes longer to heat up but seems like it does worse in hot conditions since water does not stay in the radiator long enough to cool down.

A lot of people remove it because the car overheats and it fixes it. That's not a solution to the problem, it's just a way around it unless the thermostat itself was not functioning properly.
 
Engines run best when they're at operating temperature, better fuel milage, better power, less oil sludge, etc etc etc.

It's not dangerous but there's not really a pro to it vs just running one.
 
Engines run best when they're at operating temperature, better fuel milage, better power, less oil sludge, etc etc etc.

It's not dangerous but there's not really a pro to it vs just running one.
 
Hi, so my 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L n/t GS was my daily driver for a long time. A couple months ago, it started to overheat on idle, so I press the gas a little to make the water pump work a little harder when I'm at a stop light, or I turn the car off. It's been getting worse and lately, as soon as the car his normal temp on idle, the needle visually rises and gets so hot so fast so I turn off the car. I just changed the thermostat and nothing. Is it the water pump? Something else?
 
Your solution to overheating was to create more heat? :confused: And it isn't doing it while your moving, just sitting still? If that's the case it sounds like your fans may not be kicking on. Without air through the radiator you are just circulating hot coolant.
 
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