Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[Incredible_Culp]

The head gasket could be a week old, but you've over heated the car at least what, 3 or 4 times now? It might have been OK before but I'll bet it's at least wounded by now. Even if just for peace of mind I would highly recommend a compression and leakdown test. I'm noticing the cooling issues seem to have gotten better as you've flushed the system, so I'm starting to lean towards a clogged/dirty radiator or other parts of the water flow.

radiator is pretty much new.. but you do have other good points.. im leaning more towrds the gasket now.. :reasoning below:

maybe ## thermostat is sticking

doubt it.. thats new as well.. =/

So today i refilled the overflow.. went to my job to get cardboard to stick under the car after i park it..

drove it a little to get warmed up (didnt overheat) parked and rushed to put the cardboard under.. popped the hood, coolant was still full. went inside.. came back out like 4-5 hours later.. looked under the car and i did notie some oil, so i do have a small oil leak.. small.

but to my surprise i didnt see any signs of a coolant leak.. i did notice a couple (like 2-3) drops of coolant underneath where the overflow tube is. so other than the few drops of oil and coolant, the cardboard was really clean..

popped the hood -- checked over flow-- again, it was nearly gone -- so its either someone has gps on me and sucking my coolant out when im not around or i do have a problem ()

so now this is where im thinking its the head gasket.. coolant (i think) is going into the cylinders and getting burned off through the exhaust (thats why i have VERY light smoke coming from the muffler...?)

in the morning im going to check the water pump and see if thats in good shape (im sure it is, they put on a $200+ GReddy blue timing built on.. thing looks like it came straight out the box) and then take off the valve cover to see if the person used arp studs (doubt it) in when they rebuilt the block..

if it is the gasket, looks like ill be adding more to the list:

-Composite OEM Gasket (extremepsi)
-ARP Studs (extremepsi
-and Have the block "machined"

 

[NHerron]

Whats happening is coolant is getting pushed out into the overflow. But its so much that the overflow doesnt have enough capacity to hold it all so it gets dumped from the draft tube while driving. When parked the overflow is nearly full then you go inside to let it cool off. It cools off and draws the coolant back in from the overflow. But there isnt enough coolant to fill up the radiator so now the radiator is low and overflow is empty. Thats why I suggested the gallon jug thing to see how much is getting puked out. Its not burning it, its just being pushed out in excessive amounts.

I'm in the midst of this very situation and unfortunatly for me it seems a blown headgasket but only blown when hitting boost. I puke out about a quart of coolant. There's a few more tests you can do which include a cylinder leakdown, cooling system pressure test, and a 'block test' which siphons fumes from the cooling system while running to check for the presence of hydrocarbons.

 

[Incredible_Culp]

Whats happening is coolant is getting pushed out into the overflow. But its so much that the overflow doesnt have enough capacity to hold it all so it gets dumped from the draft tube while driving. When parked the overflow is nearly full then you go inside to let it cool off. It cools off and draws the coolant back in from the overflow. But there isnt enough coolant to fill up the radiator so now the radiator is low and overflow is empty. Thats why I suggested the gallon jug thing to see how much is getting puked out. Its not burning it, its just being pushed out in excessive amounts.

I'm in the midst of this very situation and unfortunatly for me it seems a blown headgasket but only blown when hitting boost. I puke out about a quart of coolant. There's a few more tests you can do which include a cylinder leakdown, cooling system pressure test, and a 'block test' which siphons fumes from the cooling system while running to check for the presence of hydrocarbons.

ha, that makes perfect sense.. so like fill a milk carton up? .. i dont think itll fit in the bay haha.. ill figure something out tho..

i took off the valve cover this morning, i had a 6 pattern head stud.. i think im just going to go ahead and order a new gasket with arp head studs.. thats what im going to need for the future anyways, so might as well do it now..

i also checked around the water pump.. it didnt look too bad.. aside from the normal "gunk" that the under carriage takes, it looks fine to me.. but i also know that theres more to it than just "looking" at it.

 

[NHerron]

Well I got one to fit by persuation, basically massaging it skinny enough to fit behind the rad fan and upper intercooler pipe.

Gates is a good trusted waterpump around here by the way

 

[Katelynrose269]

check your oil:
is it discolored or creamy looking?

is it topped off (full)?

is the dipstick staying in the inspection tube or is it popping out?

check your coolant:
does your coolant res have a weird creamy look to it?

when you feel the coolant, is it oily?

have you burped the coolant system? no matter what coolant you put in or what water you put in as long as there isnt any air and the fans are working the way they are supposed to its gonna be pretty hard to over heat.

good luck

 

[Incredible_Culp]

Well I got one to fit by persuation, basically massaging it skinny enough to fit behind the rad fan and upper intercooler pipe.

Gates is a good trusted waterpump around here by the way

niice haha ok

check your oil:
1. is it discolored or creamy looking?

2, is it topped off (full)?

3, is the dipstick staying in the inspection tube or is it popping out?

check your coolant:
4. does your coolant res have a weird creamy look to it?

5. when you feel the coolant, is it oily?

6. have you burped the coolant system? no matter what coolant you put in or what water you put in as long as there isnt any air and the fans are working the way they are supposed to its gonna be pretty hard to over heat.

good luck

1. no
2. no.. half full, im meaning to do an oil change anyway
3. its staying in there, i made sure of that
4. the color of the container itself? or inside at the bottom? thing looks clean to me
5. no sir
6. yes i have, and fans work strong

 

[drive-maniac]

....
.....

if it is the gasket, looks like ill be adding more to the list:

-Composite OEM Gasket (extremepsi)
-ARP Studs (extremepsi
-and Have the block "machined"

You most probably won't need to machine the block. Unless you intend to run very high boost and multi layer head gasket.
If you have overheated the car many times, just get the head inspected and checked out for flatness. Then if it needs to be machined, they will do it.

 

[Incredible_Culp]

You most probably won't need to machine the block. Unless you intend to run very high boost and multi layer head gasket.
If you have overheated the car many times, just get the head inspected and checked out for flatness. Then if it needs to be machined, they will do it.

youre right.. tru.. i dont think i would need the block to be machined.. but i just might just in case as well as the head.. well i just placed my order.. hopefully this fixes the probelm

Thanks EVERYONE who inputed their opinion...!! Seriously, thank you.. It was you guys who got me this far by crossing out things and mentioning other things that could be wrong.. So again, thank you.. Here is what i ordered:

-OEM Composite HG
-OEM Water Pump Assembly (timing belt is new.. Its a GReddy blue one, so i didnt order a new one -- This thing still looks mint)
-ARP Head studs
-Also going to machine the head -- i have over heated the car a couple times -- so thank you maniac for pointing that out.

Hopefully this fixes my probelm.. If not, im going to go back through this thread and try other suggestions.. My next thing i do is the 2g MAF to 1g install with bigger injectors.. im sure im running lean, so im sure this will even it out a little <-- Not having this could also be the culprit why im over heating, stated in an earlier post.

Again, thanks guys.. I'll be back within a week or 2 to give yall my results!

 

[NHerron]

People usually swap their 1g MAS for a 2gMAS + 550cc injectors.
Ouch on the OEM pump...

 

[91blackcherrytsi]

Extreme psi has got a good deal on arp stud kit and cometic MLS head gasket right now.

 

[d_rock10030]

I recently purchased a stock 97 Eclipse GSX with 210,000 miles on her. I purchased it with confidence because it is a single owner with a bible of service records dating back to the second month after it was purchased in 97! I knew it had a problem with it overheating but I can't figure it out.... Maybe you guys can lend a hand!

I have records of the head being resurfaced and machined and new head bolts and head gasket being installed 20k ago. I have replaced the thermostat, rad cap, flushed the rad but it still is overheating. I pulled the therm. and boiled it to make sure it was working, and it popped open right at 195. The passenger fan kicks on when it gets warm and is blowing in the correct direction (towards engine) and the driver’s side fan runs when it gets really warm. I am getting bubbles in the res. so I did a compression test twice... 1=155 2=150 3=175 4=165 (all holding at those psi's for 2 mins without dropping in pressure). I know 1, 2, and 4 are low but keep in mind that this is a stock motor with 210k.

At this point I’m stumped.... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

 

[yhype]

Sounds liike you need to do a cylinder leak down test to see if the head gasket is failed.

 

[BogusSVO]

What temp are you saying is over heating?


Most compression testers hold the pressure in the gauge, not the cylinder.. Due to the nature of a compression test, you can not be sure when the engine is spun over it will end up on the compression stoke of the cylinder being tested.


You say the head was resurfaced 20k miles ago, do you know how it was surfaced? Do you know what HG was used? a MLS or a Composite?

You also say you are getting bubbles in the res or overflow bottle, this points towards a failed HG or improper surfaced head.

 

[4g63t]

Leak down test. Start with listing to your radiator to make sure it is not bubbling when there is pressure.
Another test that i have done is to fab up a tester with a old radiator cap.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/444602-pushing-coolant.html

Lastly if both of the above check out i would replace the water pump. Yeah its not making noise or anything but it could be out of spec and not flowing like it should.
just search there are so many threads like this.

 

[d_rock10030]

What temp are you saying is over heating?


Most compression testers hold the pressure in the gauge, not the cylinder.. Due to the nature of a compression test, you can not be sure when the engine is spun over it will end up on the compression stoke of the cylinder being tested.


You say the head was resurfaced 20k miles ago, do you know how it was surfaced? Do you know what HG was used? a MLS or a Composite?

You also say you are getting bubbles in the res or overflow bottle, this points towards a failed HG or improper surfaced head.

Well I have stock gauges so im not sure of the exact temp...

I know that the head bolts were felpro and the gasket was DNJ if that helps at all. Not sure how the resurfacing was done

Sounds liike you need to do a cylinder leak down test to see if the head gasket is failed.

Is this something that I can buy or rent at a Advance Auto or Autozone?

Leak down test. Start with listing to your radiator to make sure it is not bubbling when there is pressure.
Another test that i have done is to fab up a tester with a old radiator cap.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/444602-pushing-coolant.html

Lastly if both of the above check out i would replace the water pump. Yeah its not making noise or anything but it could be out of spec and not flowing like it should.
just search there are so many threads like this.

There is a strange wine coming from that side by the timing belt... what do the water pumps sound like when they go bad? I had originally planned on doing the water pump next because I didnt see anywhere in the records of it ever being done.

One more thing to note... not sure if this has any meaning to it or not but, when I run the car and it heats up the upper rad hose is burning hot (almost cant touch it) but the lower hose is still cold. Does that mean a circulation problem? (water pump or maybe heater hose?)

 

[BogusSVO]

Nothing wrong with fel-pro head bolts.
DNJ head gasket.. IDK if thats a MLS or composite....

Untill you know what temp you are, you are just guessing.

Have you tested/replaced the temp sensor to the gauge?

 

[d_rock10030]

All I know is that the thing is getting so hot that it spitts and bubbles out of the overflow and onto my driveway... Im pretty sure the temp sensor is fine because when it gets to that point the gauge is almost pegged at the top... (that happened the day I to it home) havent let that happen since.

So I guess right now im at a leak down test and if that passes replace the water pump and cross my fingers and pray!

 

[clbailey]

Pull the thermostat and see if it still starts to overheat.

 

[d_rock10030]

If it doesn't, would it be okay to run it without one for a while?

I am gping to do a cooling system pressure test tomorrow and see if its holding at 13 psi... thats the correct spec right?!?

 

[clbailey]

Im not sure on the spec, but theoretically yes it should not over heat or get up to operating temp. I've driven my camaro on a stuck open thermostat for about 200 miles till I could swap it.

 

[Batman272]

I had the same problem with my 97 gst and after replacing all of the cheep parts and new radiator I finnaly broke down and resefaced the head and she ran fine after that. If your still in contact with old owner ask for the shop that did the head work and ask how they did it. If the shop is a good one they should keep records for 2 years.

 

[d_rock10030]

Just wanted to update everyone on the progress... or lack of. I went and got a cooling system pressure tester today and ill run that tonight after work. (Work 3rd shift) I'm also going to give the shop a call and see if the head work was done right to begin with.

Thanks for all the help thus far to all of you!!! Ill keep ya posted.

Edit: So, just got back from the garage and its 6am but i think i narrowed down the problem to a circulation issue. I did a pressure test on the cooling system and it held right at 13psi even with the thermostat out. I ran the car for a bit (rough idle at first due to no thermo) and it eventually warmed up to normal running temp. Took her for a spin and it heated up again, but it was a steady climb in temp rather than warming up upon acceleration then dropping over and over until staying hot like before. It got hot and stayed hot. By the time I made it back to the garage the coolant was boiling over into the overflow. But when I first fired her up and let it warm up there weren't any bubbles in the overflow, so its not exhaust due to a bad head gasket... am I right!?!

If so the next task is a new water pump (seeing as it still has the original one with 210k on it in there) and flushing out all the lines!

 

[squid267]

Hi i just replaced the head on my car. I have a new mishimoto rad, slim fans from adavance auto parts, although only one turns on (when i have ac on) anyways when i try to drive the car it over heats. within 3 miles. i also removed thermostat to see if it was stopping coolant flow.

oil is not milky - not blown head gasket
FMIC blocks rad but it blocked old stock rad and there were no issues.
tstat removed - still overheats.
any ideas?

 

[kcourtright]

Ok, here's the problem.... When the car is running idle it's running at half temp but within 2 minutes of accelorating it rapidly climbs on the temp gauge. As long as you start decreasing your speed and not giving it gas the temp with drop back down to half within no time... I'm so annoyed because it doesn't make sense! All hoses are good, just replaced the temp sensor and radiator cap and there is coolant in the radior and overflow just like it's supposed to be... anyone have an idea?!

Also I forgot to mention, we have already replaced the t-stat and burped the engine several times....

 

[clayborn1]

I would go to your local parts store and get a CO2 tester. Although the oil is not milky you still may have a bad head gasket.