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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Ah I see. Yeah I just put a new one in along with the water wetter and top shield. Compression yielded about 165-170 Across the board which is spot on. I only have around 800 miles on it as well. Last time I check was at 400 and I was all around 150-155. So anyways, headgasket is good.
 
Change your radiator and you will be OK.
I can see in the pic, the radiator is junk, all the fins are bad and are blocking the air, this is all what is causing your coolant problem.

Concerning your coolant comparing with Link, That's the way it is, the temperature is so minimal that only Link can catch it, on Link it comes as digital, which on the claster is mechanical.

My set up is the same as your, I can see on Link how hot it goes with out making any effect on the claster Gauge.

I would highly recommend to duct the radiator once you install the new one.

Also, it doesn't matter going with a lower thermostat which the fans will not turn ON below the required temperature.

Hope this helps.
 
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Yeah I ordered a new radiator the other day because I realized the back of the radiator is way worse then the front, and that was more then likely my issue. The only reason why I put the other stat in was because I had it already. But yea, very good info.

And no I haven't taken off my front bumper.
 
Well I was able to pick up an eBay radiator for $123 shipped. It didn't come with any fans because I thought I would wait to see if my stock passenger side fan would be enough.

I took it for a 30 min drive on the highway and my temps stayed around 196-200. Once I got off the highway and putting around town I saw it get up to 206. I think I will get a slime fan to run on the drivers side. Overall it does what it's supposed to! Glad I finally got it resolved!
 
Air pocket? I noticed it didn't start until after you did work to your car and you flushed the cooling system. Could you have maybe just missed an air pocket?

Sorry just read the very last post. Glad you were able to figure it out
 
Nice you figure it out.
One thing I'd do if I was you is, to flush the engine, clean it, but put the old radiator in, so if there is any heavy rust, It will stay in the old radiator, once you know all is clean, take the old radiator off and put the new one in, and you will not be worried about any cooling issue any more.

Edit, don't forget to air duct, you will be surprised how good it gets.
 
Just my .02, put a stock Mitsu thermostat in it. A colder thermostat on a stock radiator is just going to stay open and heatsoak the radiator. That's what fixed the problems I had, that were very similar to yours.
 
Sorry to revive this old thread. But my N/T with stock everything is overheating when I drive and turn on the A/C. I have put on a new radiator cap that holds 13 psi. The water temp rises to about 190 degrees and the cap starts leaking. Can I replace the 13 psi cap with a stronger one? Lets say 16 psi? Both my fans are on full time
Thanks
 
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So after the drive the other day I let the car cool down. Once it was cool I took off the radiator cap and couldnt see any coolant. I'm hoping that was my reason for seeing temps around 206 cruising around town. Filled her back up and I will take her back out today to see what happens.
 
Hey guys my car is acting up.. It over heats but just after driving it on the highway for awhile. I could drive all day in traffic and it be fine. I've checked to ts and replaced. I'm stumpped. There is no coolant on the ground from any leaks no white smoke etc. I'm hoping if I have time this weekend to check compression and do leak down. Thanks for Any help in advance... And yes I did search before posting
 
Do you have a front mount? How did you check the tstat? Are you running pure coolant or have a mixture of water/coolant. I also slightly overheat on highway but I have a front mount and have no ducting so maybe that's your problem.
 
If you have a front mount? That will cause it. I have a front mount and I can drive all day in town traffic, but as soon as I get on the freeway with 10 minutes of driving, my temp passes the middle mark of the temp gauge.
Your best bet is to find air duct around the front mount to the radiator.

I'll elaborate. You blow air through the front mount with your mouth, you can feel air pass through with the back of your hand on the other side. As you blow more air, those little fins become a restriction so it deflects air away. Air likes to travel with the least resistance.
 
No no front mount... Just stock side mount still. I don't have a aftermarket gauge to read temps. It will just climb sky high then come back down with Roma go up simetimes
 
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