Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[GT35RDSM]

This sounds like what happened to my brothers 1GB, we used a cometic gasket, (with no copper spray) and ARP's, the head was re-surfaced but the block was not. we got it all together and it was overheating after driving about 20 minutes, to make a long story short, the top of the block was not level therefore not allowing the headgasket to seal properly, so the exhaust gasses were combining with the coolant. An easy way to tell if this is happening is take off your radiator cap and start the car, if the coolant sprays out, then you need to get the block surfaced then redo the headgasket using copper spray, which helps seal any imperfections on the surface of the head or block. GL with your problem.

 

[rice_boi88]

okay today i jux got the radiator fans to work...buuuuuuutttt...still freakin overheating...2morow ima do a full coolent flush...### tell me why it still overheating

 

[Bluefire16]

Thermo may be sticking.... so do you have any smoke out of exhaust?

 

[rice_boi88]

okay today i jux got the radiator fans to work...buuuuuuutttt...still freakin overheating...2morow ima do a full coolent flush...### tell me why it still overheating

nope i dont c any smoke tat i can c...

 

[kelly8911]

Are you making sure you are burping the radiator? Also put the thermastat back in. Any form of bloackage (like your license plate) or a huge front mount will block enough air to your radiator.

I did put the thermostat back in. I bought a new one and put it in and also moved the license plate that was in front of the radiator and so far it hasn't overheated since I did those things so I'm hoping the issue is fixed but u never know with a DSM! thanks for all the help everyone!

 

[ApexVIII]

have you found the issue?

 

[Bluefire16]

Are you buring coolant? Because an improper seal apparently can also do it on the overflow bottle as well as the radiator cap being damaged. And im loosing coolant and kinda am in the same place, but ive been told my turbo seals are most likely my culprit.

 

[emanuele]

Ok,
I was thinking to use a rust cleaner and storage specific to the system of cooling the engine.
Do you think that it is dangerous? Can this product (cooling system flush WYNN'S)cause damage to the cooling system?
Many of you tell me that my problem is caused by a crack present in the cylinders of the engine.
How is it possible because I haven't loss of coolant and when the engine fully cold the coolant back to the level right?

Lem me know

Thank you for help
Eman

 

[malibu80]

You really need to speak english better, because I have a hard time deciphering what you are trying to say. Did you bleed the system for 15 minutes yet? Does it overheat then? Does it only overheat when driving for a certain period of time? My advice at this point is to cross reference that your coolant sensor values are within spec, especially the gauge sensor. The ecu would have nothing to do with the gauge reading you are getting by the way.

 

[97gstnick]

Ok,
I was thinking to use a rust cleaner and storage specific to the system of cooling the engine.
Do you think that it is dangerous? Can this product (cooling system flush WYNN'S)cause damage to the cooling system?
Many of you tell me that my problem is caused by a crack present in the cylinders of the engine.
How is it possible because I haven't loss of coolant and when the engine fully cold the coolant back to the level right?

Lem me know

Thank you for help
Eman

coolant flush will not hurt your system.
Do you have a big intercooler in front of your radiator?

 

[malibu80]

Would an intercooler let go of so much heat that the radiator would pick it up and register some sort of heat gain? I never considered that...I have a hard time believing this. Well at least on a stock motor.

 

[emanuele]

Sorry for my bad it's not simple explane my car problem.
No, I don't have any front big intercooler my car is completely original, I have only a little modification about MAF for open air filter.
I would like send you some pictures about my car. How can do ?

Thank you very much

 

[mnetwork]

Got the car back, fixed some little things. There was a big crank issue that the shop resolved. Car wound up getting a new OEM crank along with new bearings at the expense of the shop because they messed up the motor on the initial start. Heat issue is exactly the same, no difference. I have a leak in my condensor so I just removed the condensor, put my original radiator back in, and looped heater core lines. The car actually overheats more after doing those things. I am pulling my hair out with this. The shop is denying that it has anything to do with the motor. I am going to do a block test, going to call up NAPA tomorrow for this: NAPA Online PartsPRO SE. Does anyone know how to use this?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

same here, after years of trying every slim fan there is and doing every other thing i could think of i stuck the OEM fans back on and built IC pipes to fit around them... No overheating since

I personally think that unless it's a drag car slim fans suck... MY car now makes 431 horse daily driven on E85 (and yes i push it hard EVERYDAY at 30psi and i am on stock fans and radiator with NO ISSUES at all... IMO ALuminum radiators and slim lines are just for looks on these cars and another gimmick to make money. I've never seen gains from them on anything except mustangs and other V8 cars

meh, i'll kindly disagree I was having CONSTANT overheating issues with my old 2g with the stock rad and stock fans. Switching to a Visteon alum radiator and single 13" SPAL, my common temperature ranges are always from 180-195, whereas it used to be consistently knocking on 206+. The only problem I have with a single fan is overheating when the car is in traffic.




I'll agree that it is a very slim chance that the machine work on assembling a long block would affect any overheating, unless the headgasket blew from the get go. However, I'm glad that the shop took care of you, I wouldn't have expected them to perform otherwise. I'm also at a loss for the reason your car is overheating. try a 160* thermostat, try running 80 water/ 20 coolant mix, try leaving your fans on all of the time, etc.

 

[mnetwork]

meh, i'll kindly disagree I was having CONSTANT overheating issues with my old 2g with the stock rad and stock fans. Switching to a Visteon alum radiator and single 13" SPAL, my common temperature ranges are always from 180-195, whereas it used to be consistently knocking on 206+. The only problem I have with a single fan is overheating when the car is in traffic.




I'll agree that it is a very slim chance that the machine work on assembling a long block would affect any overheating, unless the headgasket blew from the get go. However, I'm glad that the shop took care of you, I wouldn't have expected them to perform otherwise. I'm also at a loss for the reason your car is overheating. try a 160* thermostat, try running 80 water/ 20 coolant mix, try leaving your fans on all of the time, etc.

I have tried all of the above, nothing fixes the issue. I was having overheating issues last summer as well and I think whatever was wrong then is still wrong now. There either has to be a headgasket leak now and maybe it wasn't perfect when I did it myself last spring/summer or there has to be some break in the black somewhere. The block test should tell me for sure, correct?

 

[DGajre777]

The fans are crap, getting some SPALs soon.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Also, have you tried taking a garden hose to your A/C condenser? Our cars are getting quite old and dust/dirt/debris gets in the fins of the condenser and blocks airflow. I had a 87 S-10 that did the same thing only when the AC was on. Well, come to find out the condenser was really dirty. I cleaned the damn thing out and it worked beautifully after that! Check it out! It may be something you've overlooked.

 

[ghostwritr]

My car seems to be doing the same thing yours is doing. I built the motor 20K miles ago and replaced everything! I have had such a hard time with my car overheating too. I bought an aftermarket aluminum radiator. One stock fan and one slim fan as a pusher on turbo side, no room with external waste gate. Built sheet metal duct work to only direct air through the intercooler then to radiator, also built a scoop underneath to direct air between the intercooler and radiator. Both fans on all the time using DSMLINK. There is a lot of suction on the front of the intercooler. New OEM thermostat and drilled a couple small holes in the housing to help it stay cooler longer. Redline water wetter. Wrapped the manifold, turbo, O2 housing, downpipe and water pipe from pump with Fiberglass Header wrap. Cut two holes in the hood for ventilation, took out the weather stripping at the back of the hood as well. Water pump has 20K miles on it. It still over heats when on the freeway if I run the AC (aprrox anything over 90F outside). Even with out the AC it runs hotter than normal, about 3/4 to H after about 20 mins going 70Mph. If I pull off the freeway to stop and go traffic it does fine but with AC still gets hot. This has been going on ever since the build.

I was thinking it could be a possible head gasket leak, or maybe the water pump was bad or maybe the system is clogged a little somewhere. Well Last week the head gasket sprung a leak out the turbo side of the block and there is coolant in the #1 cylinder. I started tearing it down last Wed to replace the head gasket. I'm going to replace the water pump and timing belt while I’m in there. I'm going to change from the MLS head gasket back to the stock composite gasket. I think the composite will seal easier than the MLS. When I built the motor about 20K miles ago. I didn't have the head and block machined to a specific surface finish. I just had the machine shop deck the head and block and used ARP studs. I have been reading up on it and I guess you are supposed to have a mirror finish and use copper spray to seal a MLS gasket.

I hope this fixes the overheating issue; I'll let ya know next week when I'm done.

I'm in your area BIGBLAZE79, hit me up if you need another set of hands.

 

[mnetwork]

I was going to do the block test last night, but it kept sucking up coolant. How would I do this so that it doesn't suck up coolant??

 

[landrocket]

sounds to me like your fans aren't moving enough air to properly cool the enging. i would go with a pair of fans with a higher cfm rating than the ones your using now.

 

[mnetwork]

I don't see how there could be a blockage though as the motor was hottanked and everything. The exhaust gas block test didn't come back positive although I'm not sure if I did it the best way, we don't have deep coolant necks so I used a perscription bottle as a spacer. Couldn't get the test solution to turn yellow or change color. I don't know what to do, I'm going insane with this car.

 

[Nvisabl]

quote "Oh, yes a clogged heater core would do this. It will restrict the flow of coolant throughout the system (so it'd have a tougher time cooling). Just check the two heater hoses going into the firewall and make sure they're "the same temp" "

Water does not need to pass thru heater core if you have temp set to cold no water passes thru core.

I would do a leak down test with radiator cap off , If the water rises with the cylinder pressurized you will know head gasket . (I don't believe that is the problem.) I really suspect your radiator. did by chance it sit out of car out of box for any lengths of time? I would check with a temp probe different areas on Radiator ( spiders build webs that will block a radiator( I know from experience ) brand new radiator sat in shop 20 days and got plugged by a spider

DID you try this ? Do you know what a leak down test is ? Does the radiator get the same temp. everywhere (it should) if it doesn't it has a blockage !!

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Why did you switch out the radiator in the first place?

 

[jholmes]

What weight oil are you using? I noticed no one mentioned that so far. Oil's job is to lubricate AND cool internals. If you are running an excessively thick oil with the stock pump it won't produce enough flow to properly cool. Being that your engine has recently had the bearings replaced I would be willing to guess you can 0w-20 and still achieve the ideal 10psi per 1,000RPM. I live in Texas (Austin) and run 0w-20 or 5w-20 synthetic all the time with no issues.

 

[mnetwork]

DID you try this ? Do you know what a leak down test is ? Does the radiator get the same temp. everywhere (it should) if it doesn't it has a blockage !!

There is no blockage in the radiator, I am going to do a leakdown test soon.

Why did you switch out the radiator in the first place?

I did the radiator this spring knowing I was going have overheating issues.

What weight oil are you using? I noticed no one mentioned that so far. Oil's job is to lubricate AND cool internals. If you are running an excessively thick oil with the stock pump it won't produce enough flow to properly cool. Being that your engine has recently had the bearings replaced I would be willing to guess you can 0w-20 and still achieve the ideal 10psi per 1,000RPM. I live in Texas (Austin) and run 0w-20 or 5w-20 synthetic all the time with no issues.

I am using 10w-30 like I always have.