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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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My money is its your radatior my g/fs stratus did this we changed the thermostat but not waterpump and still it would boil over and fianly we just bought a used radaitor and that solved the problem.

U might can get them flushed as well.
 
your compression numbers are really bad, however try and change the Radiator Cap it could be as simple as that. try to double the seal in the radiator cap as well.

from the numbers and the symptoms i would say head gasket :toobad: but it will not hurt if you try a radiator cap

good luck head gasket is pain :toobad:
 
Well I have new sold motormounts so when it idles the car vibrates, I cant tell if its the engine or the motor mounts.
 
1997 GS-T

When I bought the car there was belt squeal going on, I've tightened the alternator which I found was loose and the squealing seemed to semmer down quite a bit. When starting cold it squeals, and stops after it's warmed up. The only other time that it would squeal again would be down shifting at too high an rpm. Anyways......

Driving to work this morning, the engine light comes on, the car starts to squeal, and I notice the thermostat gauge is just about red-lining. The car was fine when I parked it last night, now today it started up. I can put the heater on full although it squeals even worse and louder than before.

Could this be a water pump issue? or maybe just a t-stat?

I checked the rad fluid and engine oil to be on the safe side with no issues.
 
The noises you've been hearing might have been the water pump just dieing on you. I don't know the pulley system for 4g63's, so unless the belt slipped off of it then it sound like your w/p took a crapper on you.
 
If you took care of the loose belt and now it is squeeling and over heating then it is your water pump going out on you. I would not drive it anymore until you can get it replaced, you stated you already let it over heat to much once because your CEL and temp guage were both on. I wouldn't take anymore chances or you could do more damage to your motor.
 
I have never seen a water pump lock up before. They only start to leak when they go bad. A/C compressors lock up. Make sure it is full of water and that the passenger side fan kicks on at operating temperature. When it starts to overheat do you hear the coolant boiling? Might be the thermostat if so. The belt may just be a coincident. Just to make sure pull the belts off and try to spin the water pump. It should spin fairly free.

I haven't seen overheating cause a CEL to come on, maybe a check gauges light, but I don't think our cars have one of those. I would have the codes pulled.
 
Does your battery light come on too? If so, chances are it's your alternator. I had the same thing you're describing happen a couple months ago. New alternator, now all is good. I'd take yours off and go to Autozone and get it tested.

The water pump will start to leak before it goes bad so check for leaks just in case. 96eclipsGst had a good suggestion of taking your belts off to see if the water pump spins freely. But, if it isn't leaking it should be ok.
 
Well my 94 eclipses water pump froze up and it never had a leak. My CEL (Check Engine Light) and the temp light both came on. Got the car home took the motor out, and then took the belts off tried to turn the water pump and no go. It's a mecahnical piece that spines it can freeze up just like everything else. So just because 96eclipzGsT hasn't heard of it doesn't mean it can't happen.
 
I recently installed a 14b turbo and FMIC on my 1999 Eclipse GSX. Now i'm having an overheating issue. I was going to upgrade the thermostat and a new radiator but I'm having issues finding a good radiator for my A/T. It seems like everywhere I look it's only for M/T. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
 
Do you know for certain your radiator is bad??
Start with the easiest things. Replace your Thermostat, radiator cap and your water pump. Also check to make sure your fans are turning on as well. Do a coolant flush to get all the gunk out of the radiator. You don't wanna spend the money on the radiator unless you were already in the market for one. If you are, than get a new one but still replace those things
 
Do you know for certain your radiator is bad??
Start with the easiest things. Replace your Thermostat, radiator cap and your water pump. Also check to make sure your fans are turning on as well. Do a coolant flush to get all the gunk out of the radiator. You don't wanna spend the money on the radiator unless you were already in the market for one. If you are, than get a new one but still replace those things

+1 on these ideas.

You should do all of these and if it still doesn't help then consider upgrading to an aluminum radiator and some slims fans :)
 
if you were just looking to upgrade to say an aluminum radiator why not just go with one for a manual trans, aint they the same just no trans cooler. The you could install a haydon or other brand of stand alone transmission coller, i mean im not sure what you are looking to do but that is what i have always done on my a/t's.
 
I would ether take it down to a shop and get the radiator pressure tested or find a friend that has a pressure tester and do it yourself. If the pressure drops start looking for leaks. If that's good and pressure is stable start the car with the radiator cap off and look to see if the water is moving down stream. If the water is moving down stream the water pump is good. Check your sensors and thermostat. I would do as much testing as i can before buying parts.
 
Awesome! I'm currently offshore right now and as soon as I get back I'll start with all the small things and go from there. It's just been Irritating me not knowing what to do. I didn't realize the M/T radiators would fit without issues. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
 
you said all you did was put the turbo and frontmount on right? my friend put a front mount on and had to put a pusher fan between the front mount and radiater to help keep the temps dpwn becasue of the reduced air flow through his radiator the other thing you can do is it looks like you have the happy face frontend on your car, you can trim the bumper to let more air through aswell my brother acutully traded out the a 2gb bumper and lights and trip the upper part out and it allows alot more air through both the frontmount and radiator along with making your frontend look better as well.
 
You said all you did was put the turbo and front mount on right? my friend put a front mount on and had to put a pusher fan between the front mount and radiator to help keep the temps down because of the reduced air flow through his radiator the other thing you can do is it looks like you have the happy face frontend on your car, you can trim the bumper to let more air through as well my brother actually traded out the a 2gb bumper and lights and cut the upper part out and it allows allot more air through both the front mount and radiator along with making your frontend look better as well.
 
I agree with the front mount causing not enough air to hit the radiator. You can put a fan there or you can do what alot of people have done and put air ducts in your car to all more airflow into the engine bay. Also You can put spacers where the hood of your car is bolted down to raise the hood to allow some more air in there as well
 
I agree with the front mount causing not enough air to hit the radiator. You can put a fan there or you can do what alot of people have done and put air ducts in your car to all more airflow into the engine bay. Also You can put spacers where the hood of your car is bolted down to raise the hood to allow some more air in there as well

I have heard the idea of using spacers to create a bigger opening for air to get in, but the idea somewhat scares me as the possibility for your hood to fly up will be a little more. But, I don't think it would affect it to much, just would make me nervous.
 
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