Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[misphit]

Sheesh, excess pressure in the cooling system is usually an indication of a faulty head gasket. Or, it could just be a faulty rad cap. For the four dollars it's going to cost you, change the rad cap first.

 

[soulweaver]

Ok, will do. I gotta replace the fuel sending unit it my truck tomorrow, so after that I will work on the laser. Thanks everyone and I will update after I do a few things you all mentioned in this thread.

 

[soulweaver]

I replaced the radiator cap and redid the firing order. Car still over heats and the car wouldn't start for shit with the firing order the way it's suppose to but when I made up my own order it started. Any more Ideas.

 

[misphit]

Describe the firing order that you are using which is allowing the car to start. Is your electronic timing lining up? When you set up a timing light and ground out the connector on the wall, are you 5 or 10 degrees BTDC?

 

[soulweaver]

I did the electric timing by ear. I just adjusted it to run at 900 rpms. I will have to get to the car to tell you what the firing order is. My buddy did it for me. My car is sitting about 30 miles away from me in his driveway.

 

[misphit]

If you're running too lean, combustion chamber temperatures are going to be off the charts causing you to overheat. Not enough fuel on startup could also be caused by a lean condition.

When you get a chance, make sure your ignition timing is positively set to 5degrees before top dead center. Sounds to me as though it's not. This may very well be causing all your problems.

 

[redyute1]

Sounds like you got a blown head gasket,pull the plugs and see if they are getting wet from antifreeze.Had that same problem,the hg blew but the car never overheated.Would not start easy,pulled the plugs and voila wet with antifreeze,so check it out.

 

[soulweaver]

The plugs are wet but with gas. One of the plugs does have oil on it though.

 

[soulweaver]

Combine the hard start and overheating and it does begin to sound like a timing problem.
Why or how did you blow the coolant hose? Was there a tear in it leading to a burst or was there waaaaaay too much pressure in the cooling system? What's your oil look like? Are you sure you guys set the base and electronic timing properly? These are some questions that I would be asking myself. Start by burping the cooling system and go from there.

BTW, if you're looking at your engine from the front of the car, your firing order should be:

Across the block: 4-3-2-1

On the coil pack:
3
2
1
4

The only firing order I can use to get the car to start is
1432

 

[tqmx1]

The only firing order I can use to get the car to start is
1432

Are you talking on the coil pack? If so that is correct.

 

[soulweaver]

yea thats on the coil pack and from the front of the engine back

 

[misphit]

Are you talking on the coil pack? If so that is correct.

How is that correct? Both 1&4 and 2&3 are switched around. Having said that, they fire on the same note so it should technically work, but it's not correct.

Check to make sure your cam sensor shaft is not inverted 180° and set up the ignition timing properly like I said before.

 

[tqmx1]

How is that correct? Both 1&4 and 2&3 are switched around. Having said that, they fire on the same note so it should technically work, but it's not correct.

Check to make sure your cam sensor shaft is not inverted 180° and set up the ignition timing properly like I said before.

My mistake you are correct. It has to be the CAS was installed 180 out.

 

[soulweaver]

How is that correct? Both 1&4 and 2&3 are switched around. Having said that, they fire on the same note so it should technically work, but it's not correct.

Check to make sure your cam sensor shaft is not inverted 180° and set up the ignition timing properly like I said before.

So what your saying is my Crank Angle Sensor could be in upside down and I need to take my valve cover off and turn it. How do I check to see if it is upside down.

 

[tqmx1]

So what your saying is my Crank Angle Sensor could be in upside down and I need to take my valve cover off and turn it. How do I check to see if it is upside down.

You just ansered a whole lot of questions! For give me if I am wrong but YOU don't have a service manual. With out one it's like trying to tell a blind person what a elephant looks like!

If you don't have one get one and if you do crack it open and read it, It's full of good infMG

 

[misphit]

tgmx1 makes an extremely valid point.

The cam angle sensor is located on the passenger side of the valve cover. You don't have to remove the valve cover. Remove the CAS, spin the shaft 180° , put it back on. Make sure at this point that your spark plug wire configuration is set correctly as per the FSM (and my previous diagram).

Furthermore, it is very unwise to set ignition timing by ear Use a timing light and ground out the proper connector. Search the forums or vfaq.com for instructions if you need them.

 

[aspekt9]

I'm having an issue with overheating. When I drive the car normally the temp gauge stays at around half way which is what it would always be at before I started having overheating issues. Now at WOT, the temp gauge spikes to about the 3/4 line mark a little before the red square. It only does this at WOT. I popped the hood and noticed there was a decently large hole in the hose that runs from the coolant overflow reservoir to the thermostat housing. I replaced this and I still have issues with temperature. I also noticed that when cool, the overflow reservoir is at the MAX level, and when the car is warmed up the reservoir is at the MAX level. It appears there's no fluctuation in the reservoir level at all. What does this mean? I also noticed there's a bunch of fins missing on the bottom of the radiator but I'm guessing this just has to do with age. Does anybody have any idea what could be the issue? Does the fluctuation issue occur because the thermostat is stuck closed? Is there a reason it only does this at WOT? Thanks.


PS Water pump was changed less than 20,000 miles ago.

 

[bpe121212]

I couldn't find any details on your car other than it is a N/T. Any mods?

Based on your description, it sounds like it could be your thermostat.

Your coolant level in your reservoir should rise as your car warms up and fall back down once the car is completely cooled down.

If the thermostat doesn't fix the problem you may need to completely flush the radiator, if you haven't already done so, and see if that helps.

If that doesn't work then it may be time for a new radiator!


Best of luck

 

[Artago]

Do the following.

Test / replace the thermostat.
Replace the rad cap.
Clean rad (if it's clogged up)
Replace rad.

Check ignition timing???

Tom

 

[misphit]

Don't forget to bleed the cooling system. You could have a nasty case of airlock.

 

[Talon2139]

You also might want to check the sending temperature unit for the temp gauge, and like said already, sounds like a thermostat issue.

 

[RayBan GST]

change the radiator CAP , it happened to me before and it was the radiator cap not opening properly to suck the coolant back from the reservoir when its cold .

 

[aspekt9]

So I was out driving around today and it started doing it again, not as much as before. I opened the coolant overflow reservoir and there was what looked like mud in the bottom and on the hose and the reservoir was extremely low. Any ideas? When I checked the reservoir last night it was green as can be and looked clean.


Should I do a complete flush and see if that solves it?

 

[fadel_alqassab]

my gsx sometimes overheat a little bit for no reason once i drive for more than an hour, when i stop for a check, there is nothing wrong everything looks and sounds usuall... as a slow down, the overheating goes down ... it does not overheat too much but a little bit above normal...it is “noticeable” it used to stay half way sold all the time suddenly it turned this way ...any ideas... i took it to a workship but they could not find anything wrong with it... i checked everything but nothing sees wrong at all .... i just finished with all the maintenance for the car

 

[fwdmaster]

Try replacing the radiator cap