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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Just a thought since it is doing it at highway speeds.

Did someone remove the plastic skirting that goes between the front bumper cover and the frame? I hope that makes since. The reason I ask and I know you said there is no fmic, is because when people install a fmic they remove this plastic and it allows the air to come in and the get diverted under the car rather than being forced through the radiator.
 
It also depends on what speed it is doing it at. If it does it at highway speeds then it is most likely a flow problem such as the water pump, blocked coolant passages or plugged radiator. If it does it just around town then its something like the fans aren't flowing enough air (if they are kicking on at all) or like _sonic_ suggested the radiator could have debris stopping the air flow. My car overheated just at highway speeds, I replaced pretty much everything with no avail, I then replaced the radiator and havent had a problem since. You can have the radiator sent to a radiator shop and have it rodded out or just replace it with OEM or an aluminum radiator, Punishment has a radiator and 2 slimfans for 250. Well check those things out and let us know.
 
It also depends on what speed it is doing it at. If it does it at highway speeds then it is most likely a flow problem such as the water pump, blocked coolant passages or plugged radiator. If it does it just around town then its something like the fans aren't flowing enough air (if they are kicking on at all) or like _sonic_ suggested the radiator could have debris stopping the air flow. My car overheated just at highway speeds, I replaced pretty much everything with no avail, I then replaced the radiator and havent had a problem since. You can have the radiator sent to a radiator shop and have it rodded out or just replace it with OEM or an aluminum radiator, Punishment has a radiator and 2 slimfans for 250. Well check those things out and let us know.

Ok man, I will do all this. I did check and the radiator is pretty clean, such as bugs and debris. Im gonna try my rad cap off my gsx and if that dont work I dont know what I should do. If I should try a new radiator or what. I might have to look into the punishment rad and slim fans. Thanks bro!
 
Make sure your cooling system is actually filled, and that you aren't losing coolant from a leaking expansion ("overflow") tank.

Bypassing your heater core will reduce engine cooling.

Also, suspect a failed water pump impeller.

For the record, you were completely right, the water pump impeller was in multiples pieces. None OEM water pump FTL.
 
Ok here is my problems

First we will talk about the overheating problems.

It all first started when I blew up the upper radiator hose. I fixed it and bled the lines. Now every time I drive it, it will start to over heat and then If I get on the car and bring it 5,000 rpms it starts to cool down. But after doing all that it will start to push the coolant out of the overflow in the resivoir and then it will be an uncontrollable overheating problem. Oh yea, and the thermostat is brand new. I have went through 3 of them so I know it isn't because of the thermostat.

My second problem is the hard start.

I thought the car jumped time but I was wrong. We took the head off and looked at the valves and they all passed. Re-timed it and then tryed to start it. The only way it will start is spraying a godly amount of ether in the intake. I have new plugs, wires, and fuel filter. The head is rebuilt. I do have problems with the wiring on the coolant temp sensor. The wire harness and wires came apart and I put the wires back on my some connectors. I was told it don't matter what wire is plugged into what terminal so I just hooked them back up.

Any help will be appreciated and I just wanted to say thanks to all that help.
 
i would say check to see if maybe u got the firing order wrong, my friends car did this and we has to spray buttloads of starting fluid in the intake and it would start. as for the overheating i would check level of coolant and see if u had a air bubble in it
 
i would say check to see if maybe u got the firing order wrong, my friends car did this and we has to spray buttloads of starting fluid in the intake and it would start. as for the overheating i would check level of coolant and see if u had a air bubble in it

See I need the firing order. I have the book but they show 2 different firing orders that it could be. I also forgot to mention, after the car starts it will start up on it's own for the rest of the day. But if it sits over night I have to spray a godly amount of ether in it. I know it doesn't have an air pocket and It has the right amount of coolant when we start the drive.
 
On the overheat, is the cooling fan coming on?

On the coolant temp sensor the two wires are Green/blue trace and yellow/green trace and it does not matter what termanel they connect to.
 
On the overheat, is the cooling fan coming on?

On the coolant temp sensor the two wires are Green/blue trace and yellow/green trace and it does not matter what termanel they connect to.


I always keep my fans on. I press in the A/C button on the dash so that they stay on at all times. And thanks for clarifying the coolant temp sensor problem. Is it the same way for the coolant temp sensor switch for the A/C. It's the sensor above the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing.
 
The A/C switch is a overtemp unit it will shut off the compresser when the temp gets above about 240F. we are talking about the unit that is in the upper portion of the Tstat housing?

Another one I would consider take it to a shop and have them run a pressure /leak test on the cooling system. Right now I am just brainstorming but you said you have changed 3 thermostats but have you changed the cap? If the system is not pressurizing it will let the system dump it's coolant.
 
The A/C switch is a overtemp unit it will shut off the compresser when the temp gets above about 240F. we are talking about the unit that is in the upper portion of the Tstat housing?

Yes that is the one I'm talking about. If it's not hooked up what would happen.



Another one I would consider take it to a shop and have them run a pressure /leak test on the cooling system. Right now I am just brainstorming but you said you have changed 3 thermostats but have you changed the cap? If the system is not pressurizing it will let the system dump it's coolant.

I have changed the cap, but I changed it with a used on that I had laying around. I will try the pressure check. But what I was thinking was taking the thermostat out. What would happen if I didn't have a thermostat. I know the only thing a thermostat does is help the car warm up faster, but I don't know if it has anything else to do with the car.
 
With that plug unhooked it just shuts off the Ac compressor.

As for leaving out the Tstat if it was me I would not, One of it's uses is to slow down the flow of coolant through the radiator to give more time to transfer the heat to the fins. I would also git a new cap seeing as though you have no history on the one you put on (there cheep)

By the way did it ever run normal before it blew the hose?
 
With that plug unhooked it just shuts off the Ac compressor.

As for leaving out the Tstat if it was me I would not, One of it's uses is to slow down the flow of coolant through the radiator to give more time to transfer the heat to the fins. I would also git a new cap seeing as though you have no history on the one you put on (there cheep)

By the way did it ever run normal before it blew the hose?




Yes, It ran just fine before it blew up the hose. It had idle surges (jumped maybe 200 rmp's while sitting in neutral) every now and then but other than that it was great. It just got a rebuilt head 200 miles ago.
 
Your compression looks very low and out of shape, a healthy 4g63t should be around 165-170 across. Have you checked to see if your head gasket is leaking anywhere ? Bad piston rings ? Get these things checked out.
 
Your compression looks very low and out of shape, a healthy 4g63t should be around 165-170 across. Have you checked to see if your head gasket is leaking anywhere ? Bad piston rings ? Get these things checked out.

This would be true for a second gen. The first gens are 162 from the factory. Having said that, 140 is okay. Not good, not bad, but still above the service limit (which I think is 120). The differences in pressure between cylinders are not that extreme either.

In conclusion, SoulWeaver, your engine is tired but possibly not the issue. If this issue started after a coolant hose was changed, you could just have a nasty case of airlock in the cooling system. I would recommend draining the coolant, starting the car, and adding the coolant back in slowly while the car idles to burp out any air.

Good luck.
 
This would be true for a second gen. The first gens are 162 from the factory. Having said that, 140 is okay. Not good, not bad, but still above the service limit (which I think is 120). The differences in pressure between cylinders are not that extreme either.

In conclusion, SoulWeaver, your engine is tired but possibly not the issue. If this issue started after a coolant hose was changed, you could just have a nasty case of airlock in the cooling system. I would recommend draining the coolant, starting the car, and adding the coolant back in slowly while the car idles to burp out any air.

Good luck.



Ok, I will try that as soon as possible, but this still doesn't explain why my car won't start. Does anyone have any idea's why it's being a punk and not starting.
 
Combine the hard start and overheating and it does begin to sound like a timing problem.
Why or how did you blow the coolant hose? Was there a tear in it leading to a burst or was there waaaaaay too much pressure in the cooling system? What's your oil look like? Are you sure you guys set the base and electronic timing properly? These are some questions that I would be asking myself. Start by burping the cooling system and go from there.

BTW, if you're looking at your engine from the front of the car, your firing order should be:

Across the block: 4-3-2-1

On the coil pack:
3
2
1
4
 
Combine the hard start and overheating and it does begin to sound like a timing problem.
Why or how did you blow the coolant hose? Was there a tear in it leading to a burst or was there waaaaaay too much pressure in the cooling system? What's your oil look like? Are you sure you guys set the base and electronic timing properly? These are some questions that I would be asking myself. Start by burping the cooling system and go from there.

BTW, if you're looking at your engine from the front of the car, your firing order should be:

Across the block: 4-3-2-1

On the coil pack:
3
2
1
4

I know it isn't timing because I just did it three days ago and had a shop look at it
It didn't really blow it had so much pressure and it shot out of the hose by the thermostat.
No coolant in the oil (did 7 oil changes in the past 3 months trying to clean out the block) but that doesn't mean there isn't fumes getting into it.
We did the electronic timing by ear and rpm's. We have burped the shit out of the coolant system. It will run fine and not over heat for about 20 miles then all of the sudden it shoots coolant out of the over fill and the over heating begins.
 
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