Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[beniger]

check your coolant level, and also if you can get your hands or know anyone with an infrared thermometer check your radiator, finally the temp control sensor is if your fans are going off when they should

 

[92trbolzr]

OK well the I've been taking stuff off of the car and i noticed that 2 of the freeze plugs fell out of the engine. Now It looks like Im going to get the bottom end done too. looks like my car got real hot real fast. I think I am going to keep the bottom end stock but just replace the piston rings and maybe the bearings. what do you guys think I should do. My end goals are eventually a 20g and maybe 450 at the wheels.

 

[Captain D]

I talked to an old General Motors mechanic today and he told me he puts a piece of cardboard or plexiglass in front of the radiator to overheat the engine in order to seat the rings after an engine rebuild. He waits until he gets an idiot light or the temp gauge shows the engine is overheating and then waits an additional 2 minutes before turning the engine off. He then lets the engine cool completely before starting the engine again. He said he has rebuilt 300 to 400 engines this way. It sounds crazy to me. I would appreciate any thoughts or experience in this procedure.......Thanks

 

[tbonitz301]

WTFThat is crazy talk. Im looking foward to peoples posts on this topic

 

[Jeff_Ciesielski]

Old chevy smallblocks are all iron, which means that they arent as prone to head warpage or blown headgaskets as a result of overheating. Overheating the motor would indeed cause the pistons/rings to expand more than usual, which could lead to better ring seating. However, on a motor like ours which uses an aluminum head, this is indeed crazy talk. Intentionally overheating a new engine for several minutes would most likely cause a blown HG at best, and a warped head at worst.

Note: It is also likely that I'm talking crazy... but it sounds reasonable

 

[tbonitz301]

I do see where your comin from about the old iron blocks and such. Like you said bad idea with aluminum.

 

[JusMX141]

You think that's nuts, check THIS procedure out:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[Jeff_Ciesielski]

You think that's nuts, check THIS procedure out:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

What, the motoman method? Thats not nuts, thats the proper way to break in an engine like ours. I finished assembling my engine the day before I drove my car from Indiana to Seattle, I took it out on some back roads, beat the piss out of it, and ended up with 150psi across the board.

 

[tbonitz301]

I know right. Who wants to chance blowin there new setupWTF.

 

[Jeff_Ciesielski]

I know right. Who wants to chance blowin there new setupWTF.

If its put together properly, its not going to blow up. Taking it easy isn't going to make problems go away, it will just take more time to notice them.

 

[My1GLaser]

I just broke in my motor yesterday using the motoman method. It doesn't smoke at all and hasn't since about 10 minutes into the breakin. Theres not a f_cking chance I would have blocked the radiator on my brand new forged motor. If you want more ring expansion turn up the boost. I have about 60 miles on the motor and I am running 15 psi, and have taken it to 6000 rpms plenty of times. The motor sounds excellent, but I was very meticulous on the rebuild. Oh and I'm on my 3rd oil change. Another 100 miles or so and I'll check the compression.

 

[JusMX141]

I do the same as Motoman when breaking in customer's turbos that I install.

TONS of sites recommend dropping the synthetic oil and installing petroleum, then letting it idle forever and taking it easy for 1500 miles or so to break in a turbo....not me. I bolt the turbo on the car and start it, then check for leaks while the car's warming up. Once the car has reached full operating temp, I take the car for a short ride (approx 3 miles) to be sure the turbo has been warmed up accordingly and has enough oil. If everything seems kosher, I turn around a drive back to the shop at FULL BOOST. I've yet to have one let me down.

 

[Mr Peepers]

Priming is the only thing needed to "break in" a turbo.

 

[JusMX141]

I agree, but other's don't feel that way:

TURBO BREAK-IN

 

[JusMX141]

To be honest, I don't even prime the turbos I install as long as they're one of my rebuilds. Anytime I rebuild a turbo, it's fully lubricated upon assembly with engine assembly lube so there are no chances of a dry startup.

 

[Mr Peepers]

I'm not seeing *why* you'd need anything other than priming the turbo. I guess you could possibly find a problem before you start boosting it, idk... There isn't a hard reason like seating the piston rings etc.

 

[tbonitz301]

If its put together properly, its not going to blow up. Taking it easy isn't going to make problems go away, it will just take more time to notice them.

Im not new to building engines. I have an exstensive backround in building 2strokes and some experience in building dsm's. I know all about motoman and his theory about the extra cylinder pressures needed to seat the rings and the decelleration process and all that, but i wouldnt wouldnt want to spin a bearing in the process. I know a guy that builds ford motors and he puts a brick on the gas pedal for 2 minutes for breakin. Thats his way of doing it. Everyone's different.

 

[Stainbox12]

My car overheated the last day because a water line from the turbo blew, and i thought that my headgasket blew too. I took out the head and replaced the head gasket which looked perfectly fine. The car still overheats, it takes a while to get to the middle and past that, but it still gets faster than what it usually does. The thing here, is that i have no coolant in my oil neither oil im my coolant, doesn´t smoke, the headgasket doesn´t blow, and the block internals (pistons, rods, mains) look fine. Could it be minimal warpage of the head? can i check myself the block with a straight edge? Im pretty sure, that i can´t resurface the head anymore because its way off it´s limits, but why, my car still runs strong?

 

[91 Turbo Mitsu]

First of all you should never replace the head gasket without resurfacing the head because it not only cleans it it makes sure it is perfectly flat. If it is warped even slightly this will cause problems. The other thing is did you replace the thermostat? Any time we do a head gasket we always replace the t-stat. It would be like changing the oil with out doing the filter. Not a good idea. If you didnt replace the t-stat and then check your cooling fans to make sure they are coming on. Report back and let us know. I will try to help you all I can. Travis

 

[tbonitz301]

Yes i agree^^. Check your t-stat. Might sound crazy but i overheated once, and my t-stat fell apart and was lodged in the housing sideways causing me to run hot

 

[1slo1g]

Yes i agree^^. Check your t-stat. Might sound crazy but i overheated once, and my t-stat fell apart and was lodged in the housing sideways causing me to run hot

once the T-stat over heats it will no longer work properly, change that out and it should work. we hope....

 

[Stainbox12]

Yes, i replaced the T-housing but not the thermostat since i live in tropical country i don´t use such device. My head might be warped but i guess its off limits and i would need to get a new one. Fans turn on though.

 

[gfrnk69]

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a 91 TSi Talon bone stock. The previous owner told me the car overheats and surely it does.

I checked the oil level and it's sufficient. I also added coolant however it still overheats.

The car also revs a little high at idle, roughly 3k, and there is a ticking noise coming from the engine bay (bent rod?)

I also bought a new thermostat however haven't installed it yet.

Here is a cheap pic of the rpms during idle:

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Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

-Frank

 

[cyclonekid77]

i noticed in the pic that the car is not warmed up yet. is the idle still that high once it warms up?

 

[#1 laser]

could be numerous things i would check the thermostat or water pump and radiator if worse come to worse the head gasket