Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[viprez586]

#1 Well the overheating sounds like your thermostat is stuck. My buddy's WRX had the same problem and he had to drive to work with his heat on when it was 85degrees out. He came into work pouring sweat

#2 The knocking at low rpm/idle is probably your lifters, get some of the revised lifters.

#3Could be your ISC motor, or a potential boost leak.

#4 same as #3

#5 sounds like fuel cut or something of the like but all of these(except #1) all sound like they're from either the ISC motor or you have a boost leak.

boost leak test+ fix leaks.

 

[roni-wan]

I am having the same problem since two days ago, both fans kick in and everything seems fine.

After driving around for about 20-30 minutes with the a/c it starts to get hotter, as soon as I turn the a/c off it cools down to normal temp again.

Don´t really know waht could be causing this, I´ll try to check the thermostat this weekend

 

[luvmygst]

I had the same problem. I took the radiator to a shop and had it cleaned nad the problem was gone. You probably have gunk built up in the cooling system. Well worth the few dollars it will cost you to have the rad. cleaned properly.

 

[beezwax]

I didn't bother reading all the posts but if you have an FMIC, that sometimes will block airflow to the radiator

 

[luvmygst]

I didn't bother reading all the posts but if you have an FMIC, that sometimes will block airflow to the radiator

I have a FMIC and I can sit in traffic for hours in 90 deg heat and never overheat.

 

[livefree]

this might seem like dumb question but do you have 2 fans. one fan runs nomarl use and when u turn the ac on. the other fun kicks on

 

[Calan]

I have similar problems. FMIC + A/C + Stock rad + 2 slim fans = running hot

A couple of things to try that have helped me

1. Run a mix with more water and less anti-freeze: like 70-30 or even 80-20 (summer only)

2. Build a shallow air damn or scoop under the front bumper to force cool air up and into the radiator. (Search for threads on this). When I did this, my cruising temps dropped about 6-10 degrees.

3. Improve the baffling in the front area to make sure the air is going through the radiator and not around it. (I'm working on this in the next few days myself).

4. Mount an extra pusher fan in front of the radiator (not sure about this, but gonna experiment this weekend).

 

[2GeNTSi]

Could a kink in one of the coolant hoses running from the TB cause overheating? The nipples coming off of the 2G TB are angled differently causing the hose to bend and kink. I just swapped my 95 TB back on my 6-bolt w/ 1G IM and it idles a lot smoother, but I noticed the car started to overheat on the way back to my apt 1 1/2hrs away from my parents' house. I'm thinking the kink in the line is causing it to overheat.

When the car did start to overheat, I pulled over and popped the hood to see coolant all on my IC piping (I guess it started spraying from the radiator cap) and the overflow bottle almost full. One thing I noticed was that I was cruising when the temp gauge started oscillating slightly (sort of like the rpm gauge during idle surge) and then eventually started sticking pretty high. So the kink is the only thing I can think of since I never had overheating issues prior the TB swap.

 

[MelloEclipse]

recently my car ran out of coolant on a hot day, and basically overheated to the top of the gauge. i shut it off, put coolant in it, and have contined driving it with no problem.

no it seems like the back side (intake side) of the motor has a ticking coming from the head that i'm PRETTY sure wasn't there before.

would that be a cause for concern? just curious

 

[itzadawdge]

is the ticking loud or not..kinda sounds like your intake valves

 

[itzadawdge]

sounds like the water pump to me id get a new one and replace it

 

[MelloEclipse]

it's not LOUD LOUD. you have to open the hood to hear it, and then it's not too bad, but it is noticable. if i had to pinpoint it, i would say it is on the middle of the intake side.

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

I have some higher-than-desirable engine temps too.. I once caught the logger saying 217. I pulled over and ran the fans at a gas station for about half an hour then it was all good. My water pump and HG should both be good. The compression test I did says the HG is good and the hoses both get hot and hard. Stock radiator and fans with no duct work and Starion FMIC. Would just throwing in a Fluidine or Koyo radiator fix this problem and everybody else's? Oh, and I can get my engine temps down if I run the heat in the summer. Winter I dont have problems like this. On the freeway at 75 i can keep engine temps down under 204 with heat at max. Tell me your recommendations.

 

[n0c7]

Since I bought my car in 04(semi modded), whenever I run the A/C on a hot day in stop and go traffic, after about 20 minutes my car will start to overheat, the stock gauge reads about 3/4, and my autometer and pocket logger will go up to 235F before I kill the A/C. The usual operating temp without A/C is 210F(seems pretty standard around here) with my mods. Front Rdora kit, GReddy intercooler, turbonetics manifold with external wastegate, T3/T4 turbo, etc. Lots of hot running parts.

I recently replaced the rad fan as it was dead. I have two slim fans, both wired in as stock which seems to give me the best results. My downpipe/exhaust is wrapped, I replaced the thermostat, rad hoses, cap, rad flush, 50/50 mix. The condenser fan and the rad fan both come on when the A/C is triggered and cycle on and off as necessary like they should. The rad fan comes on around 210F like it should.

Basically I want to know if there is something else I should be looking at besides forever trying to improve cooling. My theory is that with the front kit and intercooler I've greatly reduced the amount of airflow to the condenser and rad but I'm not sure at this point anymore. My only other idea is to fab up an air dam to feed air back to the condenser+rad.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[poonman]

well bro, you can always take your thermostat out or see if you can get a lower temp thermostat

 

[n0c7]

well bro, you can always take your thermostat out or see if you can get a lower temp thermostat

How would that help? I did some reading on lower/higher thermostats but I can't remember.

 

[poonman]

ok basicly the way a car cools down is the fan and outside air cool the water in the radiator, then when the water inside the enige hits the temp of the thermosta the thermostat opens alowing the cool water from the radiator to come inside of the engine, well by removing the thermostat the water cycles full time so the engine doesnt have enought time to heat the water making the cool water flow through all the time, only downside is when winter comes you need to put it back in since the hot water from the engine is whats gives you heat.

How would that help? I did some reading on lower/higher thermostats but I can't remember.

 

[Agkelos]

Read this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200575. Remember, with a FMIC all the cold air that used to get to the radiator is now warmed up first by the FMIC. If you have the resources, a vented hood would help. And make sure your fans are pulling, not pushing.

 

[n0c7]

Agkelos, the factory ones pull right? Thats how my slim ones are set up - just like stock.

 

[Agkelos]

That's right; both stock fan's pull.

 

[poonman]

I did a lil thinking, I.m not sure how its set up on your car but, in eclipse's we have 2 fans. One fan runs all the time when told too and the other fan (passenger side) only comes on when the air is turned on. By any chance, have you took a look to see if your other fan is coming on when you turn on the air?

 

[dsmulla]

Ok guys, for the past few weeks I have been searching and trying to fix the overheating problem. Here is what is happening:

1. The car overheats when it is at idle but as soon as I start driving the temperature comes back down to normal. Before is overheating all the time and I changed the radiator hose and the thermostat. Also, the resovoir spits out a lot of coolant.

2. Just yesterday, I started to hear this weird grinding/rumbling noise from the head and it seems to be loud when the hood is open at lower RMPS. Moreover, I can feel the rumbling on the gas pedal as well.

3. Also I am not able set boost to what I want. I have gone through two boost controllers and none them seem to work. The car holds up to 14 psi perfect but nothing after that. I have the BC hooked up right and my acutator seems to be working as well. I take the hose of the acutator and 12-14 psi is what I see. I don't know what exactly is wrong, could it be my actuator or the BC, I dont know?

Now, my questions are what could that nosie be (1)? What is causing the car to overheat at idle(2)? Why I am not able to boost properly(3)? Also can all these problems be related to each other some how?

The car boosting perfect at 20 psi before and then it just starting doing what it does. I have no white smoke from exhaust and no oil seems to be mixed with the coolant.

Please guys help me out and all the help is appreciated!

Thanks
Osman

 

[Nanan]

When was the last time your water pump was replaced? never right? This is likely the rumble, the water pumps bearings failed.

Do you still have all the stock radiator shrouding in front of the radiator?

Does the pass side fan run when the car is "hot"? Does the drivers side fan run when your ac is on?

Your car is pulling timing due to the overheat condition it is seeing, stop trying to turn up the boost or your going to damage something.

If your fan doesn't work then go get a Spal or equiv non junk puller 12" fan and cross wire the high and low + sides together into the 2 wires for the new fan. This basically removes the high/low function of the fan but almost no after market fan has a high/low setting.

If the car still runs hot then hack the wiring harness going to the other fan and tie that one in also.

If you still have problems then sell the car to some other unlucky sod.

 

[n0c7]

I did a lil thinking, I.m not sure how its set up on your car but, in eclipse's we have 2 fans. One fan runs all the time when told too and the other fan (passenger side) only comes on when the air is turned on. By any chance, have you took a look to see if your other fan is coming on when you turn on the air?

It's the other way around in the 2g GST. The drivers side fan is the A/C condenser fan, comes on when the A/C is turned on. The passenger fan is the rad fan and comes on as required. Both fans have been tested and working, as I just replaced one that was dead(still didn't resolve my issue).

 

[dsmulla]

So you think its time to change the waterpump? Do guys think the overheating could be caused by the water pump failing to work? Ok so, the car is pulling is timming thats why car does not boost? Oh and yes the fan is working and I took the AC fan out because I took out my AC.