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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Actually my fan setup right now is retarded. I have 1 slim fan pushing and the a/c fan pulling, I also moved my big ass oil cooler to the drivers side, to the radiator could get more air.
 
Thermostat? Head Torque correct? When I had my motor built, the mech. didn't torque the head down to spec. Coolant ran out through the overfill tank and my engine was getting hot though it never overheated. I put in a new HG and had the head torqued right and never had the problem again.
 
ok so i have a 95 talon tsi awd mods include (all done by the person i bought it from)
Engine: 3400 miles
6-bolt engine, 1g big rods, butcher crank, 95 pistons, .02 bore, stage 1 1g head, hks 272's, fidenza adjustable cam gears, SS swirl valves, it's the yellow one from ffwdconnection.com built by darren
Fuel:
580cc injectors, rewired 190 lph fuel pump, S-afc2.
ECU:
Stage 3 dsmchip (stutterbox disabled)
Exhaust:
Megan racing 3in downpipe with cat eliminator open to air
Turbo:
Ported Big 16g No shaft play. Internally gated

Anyways the other day i was driving and the alternator belt broke causing the water pump to not be able to cool the engine, i didnt notice the belt break so i kept driving and when i looked at my temp gauge it was redlining i immediately shut the engine off and pulled over, i had it towed home, replaced the belt and started her up the voltage was rising with rpms and topped out at 16.9v i know that's almost 3 full volts over normal so i pulled the alternator and had it tested it failed so i bought a new one put everything back in and started it up, it wont idle even after it's warmed up it just dies and wont run right, my knock sensor is going crazy too, it also smells like it's running rich, i dont know where to go from here, before this happened the car was running amazing and i barely drove it hard, what kind of problems could the heat have caused?
 
you could have burnt your rings pretty bad, do a compression test then tell us what its like, also check all your plugs, then go from there.
 
I overheated my car and now it's burning oil pretty bad. At idle it will smoke and when you rev it up, it gets worse. The color of the smoke is whitish/grey and it smells like oil. We did a compression test and it was good so the headgasket's good. Did a leakdown test and it was good. Checked the valve stem seals and their fine. I'm running out of ideas guys !! Im putting in a catch can soon and maybe that will help bc there was oil drops in the intake pipe. And btw, the turbos good because it was sent to forced performance and they looked it over and said it was fine. So does anybody have any ideas ?
 
I have just put a new radiator and hoses into my 92 talon tsi and today i was driving it around and the car overheated a lil and was shooting the antifreeze out of the resevior tank. Does this mean i have a bad thermostat or what could it be?
 
Well you need to check everything again cause you may have overlooked something. Try the comp test with all spark plugs out and radiator cap off.

You may want to pull the manifold or 02 housing to get a better look at where it is coming from those to.
 
I have just put a new radiator and hoses into my 92 talon tsi and today i was driving it around and the car overheated a lil and was shooting the antifreeze out of the resevior tank. Does this mean i have a bad thermostat or what could it be?

Check your radiator cap and make sure that it's in great condition. Since you have a new hose, the new pressure might be too much for the old rad cap.

Check and make sure that there is no air in coolant system. Remove the radiator cap (for the love of God, make sure it's engine is cold) and let the car idle for a few mins. This would release any air stuck in the system. Also check for leaks.

Check and make sure that your t-stat is in great condition as well. Since you op for a new hoses, i recommend that you replace your t-stat as well.

Good luck:thumb:
 
i checked the plugs and they're fine, compression checked out to 125psi for cylinder #1 and about 115psi for #'s 2,3,4 it seems kind of low since the guy i bought it from told me they were around 183 although i never checked it, im also pushing about 19psi on this turbo when i was driving it, could it be possible that my SAFC got reset and my car has to be tuned again since i took the battery out and the alternator, i forgot to mention when i popped the hood after it over heated there was battery acid everywhere, i think from the battery having to run the whole car since the alternator wasnt being used
 
just out of curiosity, why did you change your radiator and hoses? did something fail or just preventive maintenance?
 
As stated above replace thermostat and cap, if this does not fix the problem remove the thermostat,(just to see if it still overheats). If it does overheat, fill it back up and drive the car with out boosting. If it does not overheat until after you have spooled the turbo several times then you have a head gasket that only leaks under boost.

My car did that last summer, i even had a radiator shop pressure test the system. I didn't figure it out until i shot the overflow bottle out from under the car.

A radiator shop can test to see if any foreign chemicals are in the water also.(like burned fuel residue.)

hope this helped
chris
 
How hot does the engine have to get before real damage is being done? Cause I had a few unknown to me coolant leaks as I tried to drive from GA to OK... yea ended up hitting 250*F before I shut it down. (DSMLink said so) so I dont doubt it raised a bit more after shutdown.
 
Do you think an oil catch can will help ? It might be sucking oil from one of the tubes that connect to the intake(pcv valve breather) and burning it in the turbo ?

I need all the help i can get. I've been trying to fix this a long time now.
 
you could have burnt your rings pretty bad, do a compression test then tell us what its like, also check all your plugs, then go from there.

and this is why you're int he newbie forum...you don't burn out rings by overheating the car. if anything is going out from overheating it is the head gasket.
 
i checked the plugs and they're fine, compression checked out to 125psi for cylinder #1 and about 115psi for #'s 2,3,4 it seems kind of low since the guy i bought it from told me they were around 183 although i never checked it, im also pushing about 19psi on this turbo when i was driving it, could it be possible that my SAFC got reset and my car has to be tuned again since i took the battery out and the alternator, i forgot to mention when i popped the hood after it over heated there was battery acid everywhere, i think from the battery having to run the whole car since the alternator wasnt being used

you're at the point where you need to rebuilt the bottom end. that compression is way low. and you were lied to..you shouldnt see 183 compression. at best with a car this age the compression should be at 160. i've seen an average of about 150-155 on my past 3 dsms
 
yeah that's what i've been hearing im pretty sure it's a head gasket which is a a big relief because i should be able to do that myself with the help of a couple friends, i just need to find out what the original size was so i can get the same one in there
 
Are you sure the head itself is NOT warped? Aluminum and cast iron are very dissimilar materials, being aluminum is very soft and iron has the most stable nucleus. I would have the deck and the head checked for warpage. Any of the site sponsors will sell you a HG, whether you want the stock one or a MLS. It depends how much money you wanna spend.
 
Are you sure the head itself is NOT warped? Aluminum and cast iron are very dissimilar materials, being aluminum is very soft and iron has the most stable nucleus. I would have the deck and the head checked for warpage. Any of the site sponsors will sell you a HG, whether you want the stock one or a MLS. It depends how much money you wanna spend.
a few people have also said the head could be warped i'll guess i'll find out when i start tearin into it tomorrow
 
just got the turbo back from fp today and they said thats it fine and to check the engine.
 
Overheating and then it smokes white and smells like oil? Sounds just like a bad headgasket.

The only way to know that for sure would be to pull the head. What were the compression numbers?
 
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