car not building boost

[JusMX141]

I'm looking at a spare oil pump/OFH right now and I can see an oil pressure relief valve that dumps the oil back in to the pan but can you explain to me where that oil filter bypass valve is in our OFHs, I can't seem to fine it.

It's not in the housing, it's in the filter.

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You're a smart guy Justin but some of the things you say just make me wonder

They should...you seem very closed-minded on the surface, so if any of the info I post actually penetrates then at least I've accomplished something.

who told you that at the most critical stage of engine rpm the oil bypasses the filter and shoots whatever is at the bottom of the pan right in to the bearings, where do you get this information.

Common sense.

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If that was the case then what's the point of using a high flow oil filter, its just going to get bypassed anyways.

Because more oil will pass through the filtering media instead of bypassing the cartridge via the bypass valve and entering the engine unfiltered despite being at a very high pressure.

If what you're saying about the filter being plugged up 50%-70% by 1000 miles then why the smart people at Mitsubishi who designed our badass platform would recommend we change the filter only every other oil change???

Some manufacturers also recommend not changing spark plugs until you've reached 100K miles, at which point the plugs are seized in the head and half of them break off. Those who actually care about their car and want to save themselves a lot of work will not treat the service manual as if it's a Bible.

What are the chances of that HX40 your talking about getting oil from a none filtered side of the OFH, I would say 50/50

Well then any customer I've ever rebuilt a metal-filled turbo for over the past 8+ years is a complete idiot. I'll start forwarding their info directly to you so you can hash out the details with them as I'm far too busy to be bothered with that.

 

[Boostdriven]

Honestly I will admit that I didn't know about the pressure relief valve in the oil filter so I've learned something there. Considering though that every car manufacturer in the world uses a relatively same oil filter, and those cars go for thousands of miles with out any turbo or bearing failure, I think that whole thing with an inline filter is useless but obviously not harmless.

I agree with what you said about the oil filter on the race car, it makes perfect sense, but the race car does not see much normal driving conditions like your daily driver would. For those 10 or whatever seconds at the track that oil have been filtered 100 times during normal driving so if anything goes by the bypass valve its next to nothing.

Half of the spark plugs brake off?!
I have changed hundreds of spark plugs on cars over 100k miles with original plugs and not one ever broke on me, in fact once you break them loose they come out much nicer then the once that were replaced by an idiot.

You may know more then me but I guarantee you don't know more then the maker of the car you're driving.

 

[JusMX141]

I think that whole thing with an inline filter is useless but obviously not harmless.

It's 100% harmless if you're using the proper filter and checking it / cleaning it regularly. Again, it's in place as a fail safe....not designed to replace or supplement the engine oil filter in any way. If it clogs you have way bigger problems than a failed turbo.

I agree with what you said about the oil filter on the race car, it makes perfect sense, but the race car does not see much normal driving conditions like your daily driver would. For those 10 or whatever seconds at the track that oil have been filtered 100 times during normal driving so if anything goes by the bypass valve its next to nothing.

Take a drag car, for example- for the entire pass the engine never drops below 5000rpms so oil pressures are going to be 80-100psi for the entire run, at a point when the engine needs the oil to be it's cleanest. Now consider what I said earlier about dirty filters and high oil pressure being a restriction; what do you think would happen to the majority of the oil?

Right after Dave built his engine he had a Top Line oil pump fail on him during a track pull. He caught it right away (thank god) so the engine was undamaged but I had a strange feeling that some of the metal made it's way to the turbo so I had him pull it off so I could do a teardown and inspection. Sure enough, bearings were heavily scored and there was a bunch of aluminum in the turbo. I re-rebuilt the turbo and it's been on the car ever since with the exception of three passes with the BatMoWheel turbo....and that happened over three years ago. Same engine, same oil (Brad Penn 10W40), same Wix 51381 oil filter that he's used the entire time.

Half of the spark plugs brake off?!
I have changed hundreds of spark plugs on cars over 100k miles with original plugs and not one ever broke on me, in fact once you break them loose they come out much nicer then the once that were replaced by an idiot.

You've apparently never worked on newer Ford Triton engines. Those owners are better-off changing heads at 100K than attempting to remove spark plugs.

WARNING Sparkplug problems- 5.4 Triton engine - Car Forums and Automotive Chat

Actually the plugs would blow out on their own with the older Tritons, then Ford revised the design a bit to guarantee you never get the plugs out. Ever.

You may know more then me but I guarantee you don't know more then the maker of the car you're driving.

You honestly think when Mitsubishi designed the 4G63 that they knew there would be a bunch of gearheads running 6's at over 200mph with their block or even going 9's and making over 700whp with a completely stock engine? Either of those examples would definitely push the "severe duty" category to the limit.

 

[lowboost13]

Ok I rebuilt a 14b and its perfect I'm feeding it from the head without the filter this time, but now I'm not building boost. Its like the same symptoms when the 16g blew. No pressure at all I took the intake off and the turbo is spinning, I check for boost leaks, none. I check the WG actuator by blowing compressed air into it and it opens and closes. Anything els that will cause it to not produce pressure?