car heats up almost instantly

[canonize-ryda]

I just got it back together after replacing the head and adding some performance parts. after the first start it ran for a while and it started to heat up real quick.

This wouldn't be a problem but it goes past the last white notch and heads for the h for hot. I don't think it should be running this hot. (The coolant also gets hot but not as bad as the oil).

Do i need a new thermostat?

Thanks

 

[tenn-gsx]

Couldnt hurt. Especially if the head was replaced due to a overheating related issue. Why was it replaced?

 

[96awd]

My daily had this same issue. How new is your water pump and all cooling parts? I would change out your thermostat, water pump, and even have the radiator flushed.

 

[DOHCTA]

Check your coolant first before you start more work. Not the levels, but it's dexterity. When was the last time you flushed the system? Rad included?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

How long does it take to heat up like this from the time you start it while the engine is cold?

 

[eatsleepboostin]

I agree. Easy enough to replace the thermostat and water pump. But I replace the thermostat first to see if it solve the problem. If still need, then the water pump. Just because I ran into this problem before. I replace the water pump, then it turned out it was just a stuck thermostat. I was pretty pissed to say the least.

 

[TunaTalon]

Rapid coolant heating on start up is a sign of exhaust gas leaking past the head gasket into the coolant. Heating after replacing the head is another good sign.

If there are bubbles in the coolant on start up the problem is confirmed.

 

[canonize-ryda]

I have a brand new head gasket, new water pump, brand new alum radiator, and i replaced the head from bending my valves. The thermostat is almost one of the only things that isn't brand new on this car besides the lower half of the engine.

The car heats up after just a few minutes of idling. I know its not idling quite right since it wont idle very good at 40 lbs it needs more like 50 lbs of fuel to even idle without chuggin up a storm.

I have another half used thermostat sitting around maybe just drop it in and go from there.

I don't know if this has anything to do with it but my turbo oil feed line leaks like a waterfall. I am working on getting it replaced with ss lines since the head part was stripped.

 

[Mackadoches]

I would definitely change out your thermostat before getting into any thing extensive. I had this issue once and I was thinking water pump or other complex part failure and it just turned out to be a bad thermostat. Might save you from doing alot of unnecessary work for something simple. Good luck.

 

[Calan]

it wont idle very good at 40 lbs it needs more like 50 lbs of fuel to even idle without chuggin up a storm.

Huh?

********

I think Maurice may be on to something. If the problem started right after changing the head, then look for the obvious. It would be quite a coincidence if a thermostat or water pump failed at the exact same time you bolted a head back on (although anything is possible).

Have you let the car warm up with the radiator cap off and observed the coolant flowing through the water neck? If not, do so...and make sure that it is flowing properly (after reaching operating temp) and that there are no air bubbles in it. You can also watch to make sure the thermostat isn't stuck, and opens as soon the car hits operating temperature.

I would also do a leak-down test, to verify everything sealed up properly when the head went back on.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

 

[canonize-ryda]

Well i picked this car up after it sat for 4 years so the head wasn't the only issue i'm sure. I got 2 of these and made the best one i could using all the better parts from the 2. Both had bent valves thus head swap and after that all the new performance parts for stage 1 path from the tuner site intro page. Started her up after just a few cranks and she runs fairly well. Then the oil didn't stop heating up and i shut her down to keep from damaging anything.

I will take the cap off to check for flow but i don't think i am getting any flow at all threw the top radiator hose. I know it flows in the back hoses since they were leaking since i forgot to clamp then good enough.

And when i say that about my fuel pressure i mean my afpr said like 60 when i started it and i tryed to bring it down to stock level and it just wanted to die out.
BTW who is maurice?

 

[frankenstein406]

Fix that oil leak!

 

[Calan]

I don't think I am getting any flow at all through the top radiator hose.

Fixed.

If that is the case, then you have a seized thermostat or bad water pump, and have found your problem.

 

[TunaTalon]

btw who is maurice?

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[90YellowTSI]

My momma says always replace your thermostat after your car over heats

 

[canonize-ryda]

My mom says does it have enough oil to get me to the store?

Sometimes i wish she was mechanically inclined.

 

[Mackadoches]

My mom says does it have enough oil to get me to the store?

Sometimes i wish she was mechanically inclined.

^
Lmao.....

 

[canonize-ryda]

Yea kinda fixed the oil leak and yea there is no radiator flow so i'm going to change that thermostat later today after work. Ill let you know if it works out for me.

 

[Jon91TSi]

I've also seen it before where if the system isn't burped of air properly a large enough bubble can sit at the impeller of the water pump and not let the pump do its job. Just something to check before you go and tear everything apart.

 

[canonize-ryda]

I just got back from changing the thermostat with another used one i have laying around and it didn't help anything. Then after trying to wait to see if it needed a second to start cooling the mini air filter i have on the valve cover started smoking.

Here later maybe i can go and run no thermostat to see if water is even running threw the hoses. The water pump was new with less than 400 miles on it. So i really hope that isn't it. And how bad is the smoke out of the valve cover? How can i burp the system as they say?

Also my boost gauge isn't running right any ideas? Am i supposed to use the bottom or top side vac hose of the tb?

EDIT Also this may be of some help i just tighten the head bolts by hand using a allen wrench and a socket for an extention to try to apply 55-60lbs on each bolt. I at least bolted them in order as shown in the haynes manual. Maybe i didn't apply enough tourque? Maurice may have been right.

 

[dboyle23]

You bolted the head on without a torque wrench??!!

 

[canonize-ryda]

Yea.. Can i go out and buy one and torque them down?

 

[soldave]

You bolted the head on without a torque wrench??!!

I had to read that a couple of times to check it's what he wrote, too.

Think we may have found our problem, or at least one major problem.

 

[Calan]

Ok. I'm not buying this now; I smell a troll.

I can't believe that ANYONE would replace a cylinder head and not do at least enough research to find out what the torque requirements are and how important that is.

OP - On the off chance that you are being serious, I highly suggest that you seek out someone qualified to help you with your car.

 

[canonize-ryda]

I have rebuilt this whole engine myself and at this point i didn't have funds for a torque wrench. It had been told to me that they were over $200. I only paid 125 for my head so i figured i would look on the net and find out what size of extention i would need to apply how much torque.

Since the torque wrench isn't $200 like i was told i am going to buy me one and retorque them. It couldn't hurt and it sounds like its not tight enough as it is anyways. Worst case sounds like i replace the gasket again. We will find out.