Almost gave up

[pwayzjellyroll]

Well I almost gave up the dream of having a damn nice DSM. The car was put up for sale locally and I got some decent offers on it, but I couldn't just come to sell it. But boy is she in some rough shape. She currently needs, a new CAS, new power steering pump, new clutch, new pcv valve. I know it doesn't sound like that much, but it is enough.

I am also back on my venture to get on that 15 lbs of boost mark. She is running 9 lbs atm, I need to check for boost leaks first. I know the #1 piston is supposed to be at top dead center while doing so, what is the easiest way for me to tell if it is?

I have to build myself a logging cable, I just need to invest in a soldering iron, since I have a palm pilot with MMCD already on it.

So a few questions I have are.

#1. Is it generally OK to install a used power steering pump?

#2. I think the act 2100 is perfect for my goals and needs for this FWD car - I suppose I am looking for confirmation more then anything.

#3. I have 2.25 inch piping on the car ATM with the stock downpipe and o2 housing, will these be fine for the moment?

#4. Should I rewire my fuel pump in my goal to successfully run 15 lbs of boost?

That's about it, I appreciate any and all responses. - Alex

 

[b00stedtalon2]

To check to see if you are at TDC #1, take off the upper timing belt cover and turn the motor over by hand until both dowel pins on the cam gears are facing up and the cam marks are aligned.

1). Yes it is okay to use a used one aslong as it is good.
2). ACT 2100 will be perfectly fine for your setup assuming your on 14b, although a 2100 could support a 16g perfectly fine as well.
3). I doubt there is any power gain from completely stock to the 2.25 cat back you have. I would run a full 3" exhaust for best power and less back pressure.
4).Yes, it is a good idea to rewire it assuming its the stock pump.

 

[crimsondragon]

Hey Alex, nice to see you back on here. We need to go pick and pulling for those parts man.

Easiest way to tell TDC is to take a long screwdriver and drop it in the #1 cylinder. Turn the crank clockwise until the screwdriver does not rise up anymore.

Also you should base your BLT around this.

1. Disable your mbc.

2. Turn your motor to 30* ATDC to avoid valve overlap.

3. Start your test at the TB elbow and focus on area behind the TB first.

4. Spray soapy water at TB gasket, BISS, TB shaft on both sides, IM gasket, injector insulators, brake booster, afpr and all vacuum lines/connections.

5. Open your oil cap and listen for leaks. (PCV, valve seals/guide, rings)

5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing, bent/unseated valves)

6. Once all leaks are fixed, move the tester back to the turbo inlet.

7. Spray down the compressor cover (known leak), BOV return/flange (DO NOT TAP YOUR BOV LINE FOR YOUR MBC!!!), IC end tank/fins and all connections. Re- test.

8. Note that you will leak air into the crankcase through the turbo seal but do not panic, this is normal during a static pressure test as long as there are no shaft play.

The desired test result from the begining of the LICP (bypassing turbo) is around 20psi (on boost gauge) with the compressor set at 30psi, while taking no less than 30 seconds to bleed down to 0.

As a reference, my last test on my 500 mile new engine, I was able to pressurize the system to 25psi, bled down to about 16psi (my 1G bov) in about 30seconds, then took about 3 mins to 6psi and just kinda lingered there for a while. It's not easy to do but the point is it's possible. My next goal is 30psi After motor break in and Dodge modding my BOV. A boost leak test is one of most pita but important regular maintenace task, the key is patience and endurance, have fun.

To answer the rest of your questions:
#1. Yes.
#2. Is your goal only up to 15 lbs? If so, it's more than enough.
#3. 2.25 is fine for now. Rarely anyone ever go beyond 3 inch piping. Maybe you might want to up it up to 3 if cash is readily available. For now I wouldn't worry about it.
#4. You don't have to though it's highly recommended. I have yet to do mine. I'm waiting for the perfect deal on an AFPR so I can install the Walbro while doing the rewire since I'm there already. Again, it's personal choice but you'll definitely see some gains in pressure with a rewire.

Good luck. IM me if you need help bro.

 

[ilikespeeding]

My philosophy is to hit something once and hit it so you dont have to redo it later.

If your final goal is 15 lbs and you're sure of it, then stick with the 2.25. If you're not sure, go with the 3. Same with the pump, going above and beyond cant hurt you.