The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Car cranks but will not start. Fuel is there.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kidwiththelaser

15+ Year Contributor
206
4
Jun 6, 2005
minneapolis, Minnesota
I crashed my old laser, and then bought a talon shell, and swapped everything over.

I crashed the laser about 5-6 months ago, so it hasnt ran in awhile. Everything worked beautifully on the laser, so I know that everything I pulled off the laser is good.:thumb:

Now heres my problem:

-The car will not start, it turns over but it will not start up. I know its getting fuel because there is fuel pressure at my FPR, and it should be getting spark because I pulled everything off of my running laser. And I know that it has good compression.

I think it could possibly be leaky ECU caps, but im not sure, im going to go check as soon as im done with this post. Or maybe I forgot to plug something in, what do the pros think?

thank you very much!

-Charlie
 
I just tried pouring a bit of gas down the cylinder, to see if it would start. But it didnt. Im going to call a buddy over so I can test the voltage at the injectors, and see if it does indeed spark.
 
To confirm if you are getting spark you can take out a spark plug, reattach the wire and put on a good ground. Have someone crank the car over while you watch for spark( don't touch the spark plug while doing:) )
Also you can just hook a timing light up to it and it will flash at and sign of spark.
 
brodiedehass said:
To confirm if you are getting spark you can take out a spark plug, reattach the wire and put on a good ground. Have someone crank the car over while you watch for spark( don't touch the spark plug while doing:) )
Also you can just hook a timing light up to it and it will flash at and sign of spark.

Yeah, Im going to try that. Im calling a buddy over to crank it over for me.

thanks!:thumb:
 
yeah, I use the spark plug technique as well...easiest way to do it, and I just use an old set of plugs that I have laying around specifically for this purpose :)

Also, they make a little kit that includes a spark plug/wire tester...All you do is touch the end of the tool (looks like a screwdriver) to the plug wire and it'll light up if it detects spark. This handy little tool came with a fuse tester I bought at WalMart for like $5.00, so you might want to check it out. Seems to work OK the few times i've used it :thumb: The only reason I would recommend using the spark plug technique is that you'll get an indication of how strong your spark is -- the little screwdriver/timing light things only tell you if spark is present, not whether it's weak or strong :)
 
Ok, I just tested the spark using the spark plug technique. There is no spark.

I also tested the voltage at the injector clips, my friend tested the injector clip at cyl #3 and he said the voltage went crazy and it wouldnt stay steady. I then tested the injector clip at cyl #2 and there wasnt really any voltage to speak of.
 
Have you tested resistance at the injector clips, or just voltage? Resistance should be betw. 2 & 3 ohms. If you are not getting spark, your problem is likely elsewhere, but this would just facilitate a thorough investigation of your injector wiring.

Also might not hurt to swap the injector resistor pack. These usually don't go bad, but if you have a friend w/ a DSM, you can swap this out in about 3 minutes (they are essentially 'plug and play').

If you are not getting spark, your ECU is still suspect, even though it powers up.
 
femmeDSM said:
Have you tested resistance at the injector clips, or just voltage? Resistance should be betw. 2 & 3 ohms. If you are not getting spark, your problem is likely elsewhere, but this would just facilitate a thorough investigation of your injector wiring.

Also might not hurt to swap the injector resistor pack. These usually don't go bad, but if you have a friend w/ a DSM, you can swap this out in about 3 minutes (they are essentially 'plug and play').

If you are not getting spark, your ECU is still suspect, even though it powers up.

Should I test the resistance of the injector, or the clips?

I tested the prongs on the injector, and got about 2 ohms on each one. Ill go check the clips.
 
After looking around at some 1g engine bays, I noticed that there is supposed to be aa fuse box over by the brake booster. My car does not have that, could that cause anything?
 
kidwiththelaser said:
Should I test the resistance of the injector, or the clips?

I tested the prongs on the injector, and got about 2 ohms on each one. Ill go check the clips.

you will be testing the top of the injector itself...:thumb:
 
kidwiththelaser said:
After looking around at some 1g engine bays, I noticed that there is supposed to be aa fuse box over by the brake booster. My car does not have that, could that cause anything?

If I'm not mistaken, that fuse box controls the A/C components (A/C clutch, compressor, etc). If your car does not have A/C, or it has been removed, you may not have that fuse box.
 
femmeDSM said:
If I'm not mistaken, that fuse box controls the A/C components (A/C clutch, compressor, etc). If your car does not have A/C, or it has been removed, you may not have that fuse box.


Oh ok, awesome. Well no AC, so thats good. You dont happen to know how the wires connect to the CAS, I just noticed that they are crimped to a clip, so they might not be in the proper order, which would definetly complicate things.WTF
 
kidwiththelaser said:
Oh ok, awesome. Well no AC, so thats good. You dont happen to know how the wires connect to the CAS, I just noticed that they are crimped to a clip, so they might not be in the proper order, which would definetly complicate things.WTF


Nope, CAS is wired correctly. Any other ideas? Wisemen?

All I can think of is ECU:sosad: :(
 
femmeDSM said:
And he finally sees the light ;)

That would be my guess, as well.

Well I hope not, because its an EPROM. Ill try swapping ECU's and see what happens. If the ECU doesnt work maybe I can send it somewhere to be repaired.
 
kidwiththelaser said:
Well I hope not, because its an EPROM. Ill try swapping ECU's and see what happens. If the ECU doesnt work maybe I can send it somewhere to be repaired.

Contact member "Steve" on the board. He's the resident "ECU fixer guru". He'll get your ECU fixed and ready to go in no time :thumb:
 
femmeDSM said:
Contact member "Steve" on the board. He's the resident "ECU fixer guru". He'll get your ECU fixed and ready to go in no time :thumb:


Ill do that, Im going to test this ECU in my buddies 93 Talon AWD, before doing so though.

thanks sooo much for the help!:thumb:
 
No problem, keep us posted. you're on the right track with this -- it's always a good idea to try swapping *your* parts into a known running car, rather than the other way around -- helps narrow down problems a lot faster....so good thinking, there! :)

Good luck :thumb:
 
Odd update:

-I checked the CAS by pulling it out, and turning the key to on position, and then spinning it manually. I could hear the injectors clicking, and I could hear the EFI relay kicking in.

And then I put everything back together, and tried to start it. The first time I put the key to the ignition position, I heard a pop sound, it wasnt very loud but it was pretty obvious. So I immediatly took the key out, and then checked the engine bay. Nothing seemed out of place. So I tried to start it up again, and now it would sputter a bit every once in awhile, but it still wont start.

Next I re-checked the spark. I pulled a spark plug out, and strategically placed it, so that I could see it from inside the car. And then I cranked it over some more, and i could clearly see that it was sparking. not very intense but it was sparking.
 
Well she fired up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Ok, I checked the engine coolant sensor, and there was 1 little wire that was broken in half, I solder that up, and she fired up.:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :D :D :D :D :D

Much thanks to everyone who helped me out here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I'm sorry, I could have sworn I posted to check the CTS :(
Good job on finding the problem. I expect you'll be helping people with your same problem now ;)
 
kidwiththelaser said:
Well she fired up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Ok, I checked the engine coolant sensor, and there was 1 little wire that was broken in half, I solder that up, and she fired up.

Awesome :thumb: nothing like seeing your hard work pay off, eh? :)
Congratulations on a running DSM! Those coolant temp sensors are pesky creatures, indeed.
 
ddavisaf said:
I'm sorry, I could have sworn I posted to check the CTS :(
Good job on finding the problem. I expect you'll be helping people with your same problem now ;)


Yeah, of course.:thumb:

I searched around, and I think I saw a post of yours telling someone to check the CTS, so I did.:thumb:
thanks again everybody!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Griffin intercooler cores
    Griffin intercooler cores. Top to bottom flow. High cfm and heat transfer. 24x8x2.75 and...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top