Car Boggs after 4krpm

[pulsar gtr]

Hi all,

Well, I bought a 97 AWD turbo eagle talon knowing it has a problem.
I have searched this forum with little info regarding my problem. I am hoping some one can help me out figure out what the problem is.

The car will rev without any problems under no load, but under driving load, when the car will accelerate fast up to 4krpm but after the 4krpm, the car hesitates really bad, boggs and slowly and I mean slowing with all the hesitation the car will pass the 4krpm to 7krpm but all that with some serious bogging, when the hesitation starts. It feels as if i am losing the spark under load or losing fuel pressure.

I check and inspected the intercooler and its piping for any leaks an none were found.
I replaced the spark plugs with platnium ones and problem still there.

There is no engine light, I hooked up an obdii diagnostic computer and it came with code 1500 "Generator problem" is that an alternator, and could the alternator causing this problem, because the car is charging and the battery is strong doesn't die.

But if I give it gas slowly, the car will boost a bit and reachs 7krpm and the hesitation doesn't occur, that is gas is applied very slowly, other wise the car will start to hesitate and boggs.

I put the car on a hoist and tried to put it in gear and drive it to see if it does it and it doesn't, it only does it under load.

Any Ideas or thoughts will be really appreciated.

Thank you,

Rafi

 

[realhp=turbo]

Sounds like the ecu is pulling timing. Probably due to a number of things. It could be that your 02 sensors could be going bad or your fuel filter is plugged or your knock sensor isnt functioning properly. It is not entirely uncommon that the alternator is on its way out. They do some funky things to your performance when they dont work right. Do you have a power steering leak? Try pulling the alt out and take n have it tested. If thats the only code its pulling Id look at that sucker with a fine tooth comb.
mike

 

[pulsar gtr]

Thanks for the reply man, I did disconnect the alternator, thinking that it might be overcharging under load, and took it for a short spin, under the power of only the battery, the car did exactly the same as before.

I forgot to mention, when the car is cold, it takes about 15 seconds of cracking to get it to start and when it starts, it hesitates a bit before it actually start idealing fine.

Thanks,

Rafi

 

[pulsar gtr]

Come on Guys, I know there are some serious knowledgable people here and I pretty sure some one had similar problem.
I have searched it and some people had similar problems but without the answer on what was the solution

Thanks,

Rafi

 

[uh-oh]

sounds like a combination of things....first take out those platinum plugs and throw them in the garbage and get regular NGK plugs....the make sure your car isnt overboosting...after that make sure you dont have any vacumm leaks especially on the PCV valve line...an identical thing happen to a friend of mine and when he brought the car to me it would run great until the car came into moderate boost at about 4-5k (which will only happen under load) so check vacumms as well...and if that doesnt work than you can look into TPS and ignition settings more closely but most likely its a vac. problem

 

[pulsar gtr]

Thank you and I will check for the pcv and double check for vaccum leakage even though I have checked for that already.

Thanks,

Rafi

 

[oparea12]

Changing my alternator out fixed my bogging problems.........

 

[pulsar gtr]

Well, Yesterday, I did a compression test, it measured 120psi all accross, I drove the car for about 10mins then I did the compression.
According to the specs a new engine will measure 178psi and mine is very low.

oparea12, what kind of bogging were you getting, for me, when ever I go full trottle quickly the car boggs, start popping from both the intake and the exhaust.

I have checked for pcv and no leaks there, as well as I have check for all vaccum lines and no leaks found there either.

I was wonder if with the compression that I am getting 120psi, if that could be doing the problem

I a assuming if the tps or maf or any electronics sensors are defective or itermittent the ecu will register and I can pull it through the obdii computer but none is showing that.


Any more opionions will be appreciated.

Thank you,

Rafi

 

[oparea12]

I was getting bogging around 5k rpms and lots of knock on the pocketlogger, it turned out I wasn't getting enough voltage from my alternator which was causing the injector on the #3 cylinder to cut out intermittently. Good luck, it's worth a shot to go have your alternator checked out though.

 

[realhp=turbo]

First, disconnecting the battery while the car is still running, Very dumb. Second take the alt out, and have it tested. Third, when disconnecting battery to reset ecu turn car off. Leave car and battery for a few minutes then hook it back together. This might not be your problem. When was the last time you looked at the timing belt? If its new, nevermind. If you dont know the condition, check it. There is a possibility that the t-belt is stretching under load causing timing issues. Do you have any fluid leaks at all? It could also be that your car at some point skipped a tooth on the cams. That will create lower compression numbers. (I have first hand exp with that one.) You got some more checkin to do. Good luck

 

[Defiant]

There is a possibility that the t-belt is stretching under load causing timing issues.

Sorry, but timing belts once installed will stretch NONE.

Get rid of those platinum plugs, get NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at .028", and see about some new plug wires. Beyond that, have your ECU dianosed.

Your compression is low (book service limit is 133psi), that motor's very near the end of its service life.


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