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cant get my car to take gear

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spitfiremike

Probationary Member
24
0
Aug 17, 2008
san antonio, Texas
ok i hope i can get an answer to this because im dead tired of doing work..so i cant get my car to take gear. The pedal still doesnt feel right after bleeding it over and over,ive done the right steps and it springs back but still not the same. Ive replaced the clutch,the master sil,and slave sil, ive tryed adjusting the clutch pedal and for some reason it wont go into gear... it jumps forward when its in gear and i try to start it

it stays locked in nuetral when the cars on and when its off it goes into gear..
so confused someone please help i know somethings wrong
this is on my 95 eclipse gst
:cry:
 
If you have a brand new clutch and flywheel you may need a extended clutch rod. or you can fabricate a extention like i did for my 95. then repeat your bleeding, pump your clutch pedal after the bleeding is done about 30 to 40 times ( 2G clutch pump up) last adjust clutch rod at pedal if needed inside car to move friction point where you like. Now you can drive your car.
 
well i replaced the clutch only, its weird i can tell its hitting because the tension and i can see the fork pushing the throw out bering? is it not enuf?
i adjusted the clutch pedal so many times..
its weird the motor gets all low idle when i try to put it in gear like as if its not enuf or sumthin..

i did forget to mention that when i had my last reck it took out the to side bolts in the bell housing near the clutch cylinder so now they cant be used..bracket holes broke.. could this be a problem causing it?
i have the rest of the bell housing bolts in and tight but it looks like my trani is still spread apart very very little..u cant even put a toothpick in between the block and bell housing its so tight..
i dont think that has anything to do with why the clutch wont take gear but a friend thought i should ask..?
 
I don't thing your broken bell housing bolts are your problem, However if you do not have a new flywheel and you turned your old one you shouldn't have too much difficulty bring your friction point up since your friction surface on the flywheel is reduced. unless your bleeding is incorrect. Are you doing it with another person and a vac line on your bleeder nipple in a cup of brake fluid ?
 
ya i have a friend and he has been helping me the entire build, he had an 89 supra turbo and is familure with clutch bleeding and so on.. we are doing everything as it says on the site about clutch bleeding but to me it still doesnt feel the same.. we made the clutch pedal tighter but now it wont even allow me to push it down as far, its very tight thinking that might help. but still same results?

hmm how will i know when the flywheel is in place or what u where saying?:dsm:

i just got off the phone with my machanic and he told me the clutch isnt disengaging?
 
I have the same exact problem, it will go in gear fine when the car is off, and if you try and start the car in gear it will jump forward. If you try and put it in gear while the car is on the rpms will drop. My friend suggested that its something with the pressure plate. When we replace the pressure plate and get it back together I will let you know if that was the problem. If you figure anything out, let me know, I'll do the same.
 
xdxo
please let me kno if u hear something or fig it out
im on the verge of selling this pos im so fustrated! :confused:

thats what my guy was saying but im still confused

idk man i replaced my clutch,pressure plate,and throw out berring at the same time but i still have same results?
:confused:
 
I just got my pressure plate off and I found a broken off piece of metal, pretty skinny about 2" long, in my clutch. I couldn't visually see anything that looked broken off, but I assume that whatever it was is the cause of this. The fingers on my pressure plates were still stiff so I don't think it was that, again, if I figure it out I'll let you know asap. Don't sell your car, you'll get over it haha, I've been there plenty of times, and I just turned 18 haha.

I found the culprit
The piece that I circled broke off. It didn't seem to cause any other damage, but I assume that this was definitely the problem. For some reason, I don't have the two dowel pins that go between my trans and block so my trans was probably shifting back and forth, causing this piece to snap. I hope this can be of some help for you.

<a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i38.tinypic.com/fv1nb.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

Good luck
 
well i replaced my clutch and pressureplate and it still wont take gear with the car on..
i put the two front tires in the air and it let me go into 1st and the tires spun but not reverse,it would grind when i tryed reverse??

it wont let me put it in gear 1st when the tires are on the ground?
:confused:
im stump :cry: idk what to do? any help??
 
now the 2 bolts that you removed they arent on the front side of the tranny are they? If they are the ones in the front in a row of i think 3, those have a spring and ball bearing behind them which is crucial to shifting into gears.. what kind of clutch was installed? Most aftermarket clutches expecially ACT release very very low, that is where the extension rod would take place..
 
Have your buddy get in your car and press the clutch while you are under the car looking right at where the clutch fork sticks out. watch the movement of slave rod pushing the fork, is it pushing it all the way to where the fork can't move any further? Is the the rod moving at all? does the whole trany move/flex ? then slide down and look at the pully side of the crank, is it flexing in and out? <--(hope not) These test will tell you the problem.
 
ok the fork isnt touching the bell housing when the clutch is pushed down. Yes it was the two bolts on the front side of the trani. It looks to me as the whole motor is being moved when i push the clutch, it kinda looks like its flexing apart very very little idk if its enuf to matter??

WTF

my friend says the clutch isnt disengaging idk how

the clutch kit i put in was called dynamax or sumthin, i got it from orileys..just a stock clutch all it came with was a pressure plate a clutch disk and shift bearing.
 
Thats your problem (dynamax). I had this exact same problem when i had my 94 gst (7bolt). I went from a oem pressure plate to a dynamax. Prior to me taking the oem out was the clutch was slipping. The problem i had was i bled the hell out of if and i couldnt get the car in gear when it was running. I changed the clutch master cylinder the slave and bled some more and adjusted the clutch master cylinder as far as it would go eventually i could engage/disengage the clutch with the pedal all the way to the floor but it just felt weaker then with my old oem clutch but was enough to drive the car with no problems. It wasnt right i know but it worked for me.I took a look at the oem versus the dynamax pressure plate on a flat level surface and looked at the fingers on both p.plates and the dynamax was lower thats why it feels the way it does. someone here had mentioned a longer slave rod maybe this will help you for me i was able to adjust enough to get it to work. my advice is to put a oem back in or act ect.
 
idk i swapped the clutch because i thought that was the problem, i couldnt get it to take gear even with the old clutch. You are correct it does feel way diffrent from oem. Idk u think the extended rod would do it?

it seems as if the clutch pressure plate is being pushed far enuf?
but wont take hmmm
 
did you just buy this car? How long have you been unable to get the car in gear with the old clutch (is old clutch oem or another dynamax)?
 
well my girlfriend 4 months ago recked my 97 spyder gst so a few weeks later i bought this 95 GST hard top shell and made the conversion. I swaped the ecu engine harness trani motor etc. Well in that reck the bell housing broke and the block chipped where the two bolts for the bell housing went in the front.so they cant be used..the impact cracked the holes

the clutch was to the floor during the reck and the piston shot out of the cylender down low. I replaced the master,slave etc and tryed to use the same clutch. I still couldnt get it in gear and so i asumed the clutch was no good so i swaped it also,and im getting the same results.
 
ok well i just got done pulling the SOB to my friend.. hes very good with these eclipse
so hopefully tomarro when i go to see him we can find an understanding of why the #### it wont go....

o i did get a kick off on the side of the door before i left LOL no damage tho :p :mad:

if this dont do it then ...... -> :beatentodeath:
 
The flexing of the transmission away from the block will definitely stop it from disengaging. If the damage is too great to your transmission it might be best to find another one to install. Start with stopping the flexing and then go with an extension rod if required.
 
I just got my pressure plate off and I found a broken off piece of metal, pretty skinny about 2" long, in my clutch. I couldn't visually see anything that looked broken off, but I assume that whatever it was is the cause of this. The fingers on my pressure plates were still stiff so I don't think it was that, again, if I figure it out I'll let you know asap. Don't sell your car, you'll get over it haha, I've been there plenty of times, and I just turned 18 haha.

I found the culprit
The piece that I circled broke off. It didn't seem to cause any other damage, but I assume that this was definitely the problem. For some reason, I don't have the two dowel pins that go between my trans and block so my trans was probably shifting back and forth, causing this piece to snap. I hope this can be of some help for you.

<a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i38.tinypic.com/fv1nb.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

Good luck


I cracked my dual friction clutch and the pieces were getting caught between the clutch and the flywheek so that randomly it would prevent me from shifting gears. I loved the clutch, but not the durability.
 
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