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Cant get car started, no spark, maybe flooded

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clownface

15+ Year Contributor
1,161
6
Aug 27, 2003
Bluefield, Oklahoma
Hey......So i let my car sit for like a week and when i go to start it it wont start. When i left it it was running fine, no problems at all. First thing i did was try and crank it a bunch over and over, its cranking fine and everything just not hitting. I stopped that though cause im pretty sure i flooded it..LOL OMG ...it smelled like gas really bad and when i pulled the plugs they where wet with gas.... :cry: . So thats another thing im worried about. Any way i got the battery checked and its fine but i did this thing to see if im getting a spark, took out the spark plug and wire and put them together then grounded it on some metal in on the engine and let a friend crank it to see if it would spark...no spark...i guess i did it right sooo im guessing im not getting a spark. So after all that i left the plugs out of the engine to try and let some of that gas dry out over night and thats where im at now, engine got flooded from where i cranked it a bunch i suppose and ive got no spark.

What are some of the bad things that can happen when you flood your engine??? wash out the rings??? :| Is there anything i can do to get that gas out of there if theres any left in it?? :confused: Is there anyway to save a flooded engine or should i be okay???And what should i do about my spark??? where should i start checking first?????

any help would be greatly appreciated :)
 
well unforchinatly you are going to have to work your way around the electrical system in your car testing things. A chiltons manual would be a good thing to have here. Check the coil pack, power transister, and see how many volts your battery has. Check for loose plugs especially on the coil. Make sure your fuses going to all the electrical stuff is good. Good luck!

scott
 
ive got a haynes manual, so that should help me some. What about the flooded engine, does flooding your engine pretty much ruin it???
 
Flooding your engine doesnt ruin it... DEF check the manual, the pluggs is a good place to start and check for a leak in the fuel rail... good luck mann :thumb:
 
okay, thanks for the help, i guess thats pretty much all i need to know, if i have any updates ill post back. :thumb:
O wait, i dont really understand why should i check the fuel rail though, anyone? :confused:
 
Are you data logging clownface, and does the software read error codes? I don't know about 2g's, but when the CAS is gone on a 1g you can crank it till the cows come home, it won't start and scan with Pocketlogger will show "Crank Angle Sensor".

Might be a good idea to change your oil because it could be diluted with gasoline.
 
Im not data logging but ill check the CAS and see....if i can figure out how to check it LOL. yeah i figure ill change the oil cause i was thinking that would happen
 
welp ive been checking some stuff but not alot cause i dont got all sorts of time to spend doing it. I checked the wires and they seemed fine but i checked the primary resistance on the coil pack and it was like 1.4 ohm on both sides and its supposed to not be higher then like .8 or somthing.....does that mean the coil pack is the source of my trouble and i should go ahead and get a new one????? if that is the case... does anyone make a nice aftermarket one or should i just get a stock one??? :confused:
 
If the car has relatively few miles on it I would try to borrow a coil/transistor that was working to see if that would eliminate the problem.

If your coils have lots of hard use it would be just as well to eliminate that possible cause by buying new.

There is a raging debate about the efficacy of coil on plug set-ups. I have one on the way simply because it is time for new coils an I have a SMIM so mounting is an issue.


OEM packs run about $160. Buscher's COP is 500 and I think it's Extreme's that is $400 at DSMparts.com.
 
does anyone know about the OHM thing?? does being that much over what its supposed to be make the coil pack not work????
 
pkieley said:
Are you data logging clownface, and does the software read error codes? I don't know about 2g's, but when the CAS is gone on a 1g you can crank it till the cows come home, it won't start and scan with Pocketlogger will show "Crank Angle Sensor".

Might be a good idea to change your oil because it could be diluted with gasoline.


I was reading in my manual....since my fuel system is working and its just the spark that isnt working then my crank angle sensor should be working then right?? if it wasnt then injection and spark wouldnt be working...is that how it goes?? :confused:
 
I checked the secondary on the coil pack and its all in spec, the primary is still about double what it should be. As far as i could tell every thing was wired right but i didnt really check that much. I tryed to check my power transistor but i dont really know how and my haynes didnt help me much...can anyone help me with that??
 
okay..i need some help to figure out if my tranisistor is bad. My haynes wants me to connect a ohmmeter to pins 3 and 8 and see if any continuity..if there is continuity its bad apparently...unless you connect a 1.5v battery to pins 3 and 7 then there should be continuity or its bad then also. Then reapet all that but with pins 1 and 2 for the other coil or something. Thing is i have a mulitmeter with the ohm and volts and stuff but i dont really know what continuity is or what its refering to when it says continuity, can someone help me with that so i can tell if the transistor is bad? yes yes..i know im stupid and im a noobie but i need some help. OMG

I really wanna try and figure out whats causing this before i start buying coil packs, transistors and ECUs because i have a very small amount of money to work with on this. I do have a DSM friend thats gonna gimme some spare parts...so maybe thatll help me figure this out...hopefully.
 
I did some more checking today. I checked my power supply at the coil primary and its 12v but the supply at my crank and cam angle sensor are only like .5v for each of them or something like that and i think there each supposed to be 12v. I also tryed to see if im getting a spark signal that the coil primary or w/e the signal is called. I hooked a test light up to the coil electrical connection to see if it would blink when i cranked the car and it didnt but it did have a 12v power source so i dunno. Im starting to think its my ECU and im gonna try take it out of my car and get it checked tomorrow at a shop or something tomorrow, ill be back with what i find out.
 
Continuity means the circuit is complete/unbroken, i.e. continuous. Use one of the ohm settings on your multimeter. Observe what it reads when the leads are touching nothing or themselves. This is actually infinate resistance as air is a poor contuctor. Now observe what it reads when you touch the leads together. This is very low resistance.

When you are testing if the reading is the same as when you held the leads apart there is no continuity. If it reads some resistance there is continuity. You could practice this on a blown and unblown lightbulb.
 
OOOOOOO i see, i see, thanks for explaining that :thumb: :) Ill check that transistor tomorrow now that i know what everything means.
 
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