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Can Not find Rod Bearings

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1999eclipsegpm

Probationary Member
18
0
Aug 27, 2013
Dayton, Ohio
So i had to have my crankshaft rod journals machined 40 under stock spec which now is sitting at 1.731 in. My builder said he had the bearings but it turns out he cant find them. The size bearing i am looking for is 1.00 mm over. I was at .5 mm bearings when it spun again,so needed machined again to 40 under stock=.04 in off. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME FIND THE +1.00 OVER BEARINGS FOR 2G 7BOLT, IM DESPERATE, Thanks guys.
 
King, ACL, Clevite 77 are only available in STD, .25 and .50mm for the 7 bolt

Clevite has a listing for the 1.00 mm bearing but only for a 6 bolt.


You need a crank. The rod throws are "soft" the nitrate hardening is ok for a .50mm grind after that it drops quick.
 
At this point you're better off getting another crank. Go to a local pick and pull or even the classifieds here. It's not exactly going to cost am arm and a leg. That's a pretty deep cut in my opinion. Better to just cut your loses.
 
Im gonna go ahead and say none of you are engine builders with those responses, Thanks for the help guys you never fail

HA and your 14 post say you are? What engine builder/machinist cuts a crank then looks for bearings? Not a very good one. If he can't find them and you can't find them what does that tell you? Cranks are generally 100 bucks used uncut on this site. Very affordable. Also I would tell your machinist to eat the cost of cutting that crank because now you cant do anything with it like EVERYONE else has said.

King, ACL, Clevite 77 are only available in STD, .25 and .50mm for the 7 bolt

Clevite has a listing for the 1.00 mm bearing but only for a 6 bolt.


You need a crank. The rod throws are "soft" the nitrate hardening is ok for a .50mm grind after that it drops quick.

^^^^^^ BTW this guy has probably put together more engines then 90% of the people on this site if not more. Im pretty sure he is an engine builder or machinist by trade if not some variant of that.
 
Im gonna go ahead and say none of you are engine builders with those responses, Thanks for the help guys you never fail

Why ask for help if you think you know more , then engine builders ..If you have your engine at a builder..Yet he can help you ...doesn't that answer your own question???
 
Im gonna go ahead and say none of you are engine builders with those responses, Thanks for the help guys you never fail
:notgood: You must be joking right ??? You have already cut that crank and you need to ask for bearings You already went too far with that crank, its junk.

So i had to have my crankshaft rod journals machined 40 under stock spec which now is sitting at 1.731 in. My builder said he had the bearings but it turns out he cant find them. The size bearing i am looking for is 1.00 mm over. I was at .5 mm bearings when it spun again,so needed machined again to 40 under stock=.04 in off. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME FIND THE +1.00 OVER BEARINGS FOR 2G 7BOLT, IM DESPERATE, Thanks guys.
Sounds like your not an engine builder either, since you got a builder/machinist doing it for you. I hope he is competent, because he should have told you to get another crank in the first place. :toobad:
You ask for help desperately then disrespect peoples advice and Bogus who machines for a living, then you wont get any respect back. :notgood:
 
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Im gonna go ahead and say none of you are engine builders with those responses, Thanks for the help guys you never fail
First of all SVO is one and second why on earth did you take your 4G63 to a machine that doesnt seem to know what they are doing ???? Third if you knew the answers why are you asking for help on there ??? Good Luck to you. I can think of 3 shops in Ohio that are DSM friendly. Buschur Racing - RaceTuned - Pure Tuning
 
Wow, what a tool. You come on this site AFTER you have your a$$ in a bind and you get some very good answers. However, since you are never wrong, you bash the people on this site that point out that you need to do something else. Good luck in life.
 
Im gonna go ahead and say none of you are engine builders with those responses

Wrong, see the first reply.

Save yourself the headache and find an uncut crank. A lot of people are hesitant to run a machined crank, but it sounds like you had yours cut once already, spun a bearing, and then had it machined again?
 
First thing you need to do is figure out why you're spinning bearings in the first place. You've now spun them twice from what your post says. While there are people in the 4G63 community that have had success running cut cranks with oversize bearings (very few I've ever heard of), it is generally a known common practice in the community that you don't run a cut 4G63 crank. Now, I'm not a machinist and don't claim to understand the reasons why it may or may not be a bad idea to run a cut 4G63 crank, but, as others have said, used cranks that only need a polish are typically pretty affordable and will benefit you in the long run. Now, as I've said, if you've spun a bearing twice with the same motor and crank, you have an underlying issue that needs to be resolved first or you'll just end up spinning yet another bearing, regardless of whether the crank is cut or not.
 
Had my crank cut, 300 miles later: rod knock. Now this very very well could have been the particular machinist i used(looking back at his track record now), but nonetheless, i am now leary of running a cut crank.

There is a ton of info here and only a few dick-ish people, most are nice and helpful. This site is amazing. You really shouldnt be a smart ass when people are trying to help. Best of luck, as others say, get a new or used(uncut) crank and you're ready to rock bud
 
Had my crank cut, 300 miles later: rod knock. Now this very very well could have been the particular machinist i used(looking back at his track record now), but nonetheless, i am now leary of running a cut crank.

Same thing happened to me after I got the crank machined the damn thing spun a rod bearing 2 days later. So I now tell every one if your able to, just polish it and touch it up thats fine. But if its damaged to the point to where you have to machine it, just throw it away.
 
Im gonna go ahead and say none of you are engine builders with those responses, Thanks for the help guys you never fail

King, ACL, Clevite 77 are only available in STD, .25 and .50mm for the 7 bolt

Clevite has a listing for the 1.00 mm bearing but only for a 6 bolt.


You need a crank. The rod throws are "soft" the nitrate hardening is ok for a .50mm grind after that it drops quick.





ROFL OP is a straight dumbass. You should do a little more research before jumping to conclusions, newbie. BogusSVO is a badass machinist and engine builder by trade. Good luck finding bearings, genius.
 
Im gonna go ahead and say none of you are engine builders with those responses, Thanks for the help guys you never fail

King Engine Bearings Catalog :: Home Page

http://www.acl.com.au/web/aclwebsite.nsf/8df7d3f7b605537a4a2569660082eda8/24f29f25e65b78bcca25734c00099e48/$FILE/03185327.pdf/ACL07%20Bearing%20Catalog.pdf

MAHLE Clevite Launchpad

There are the links I tend to use to find part numbers, or my paper old school catalogs.

If you look in the clevite77 catalog, 2003 Issue 2-200-03
Page 466, Block 8

They list both the 6 bolt and 7 bolt, with what is available in sizes.

Maybe your engine builder just slipped in the head and looked at the wrong year?

But a slick machinist can get the 6 bolt rod bearings to work in a a 7 bolt crank and rod combo :confused: WTF

But pay me no mind... I have no Idea what I am talking about. :banghead::banghead:


Oh, I do build with cut cranks, not an issue yet, But I have a thought on why so many fail with a cut crank, improper cleaning of the crank oil galleys.

But I will only go so far with a cut crank.
After reading this bit of info, you may see why.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/431201-cut-crank-tested-theories.html
 
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