can I replace head studs without pulling head

[clone]

fellow DSM'er claims I can pull & replace the head studs without disturbing the head or gasket..... is this possible .... even recommended?

mentioned they permitted the use of an allen key.

 

[SlowChild3]

Just do it right... Pull the head off and put a new gasket, t-belt, tensioner ect ect.
When I did a HG on an old 92 tsi I had I happen to see the balance belt broke just hanging waiting for the TB to grab it.

 

[LiquidX]

Yes you can replace without pulling head. Just do one at a time.

 

[TSimage]

I've done it and held up fine even with OEM composite HG and throwing 30psi from my 35r.

 

[rlacasse1]

Yeah you can.

But, Why???????

 

[Calan]

In my case, it would be to replace the new ARP's with the L19's I should have bought in the first place... (even though I have no head issues at all and only 10k or so on it).

 

[brian9397gsx]

i did it still running to this day. why does everyone think the more parts you replace and the more work you do its better. if your head gasket is in good shape why go through all the trouble and cost of pulling the head?
took me half an hour to do it in my 2g just do it one at a time youll be golden

 

[clone]

Yeah you can. But, Why???????

a cppl have asked why just studs?

I just installed a new timing belt, tensioner, pulley's, water pump a month ago..... I don't want to waste the work.

I plan on driving the car for a few km's in the cars current state to make sure of it's condition before I install the 16g turbo, full exhaust, 680cc injectors, S-afc, FMIC, rewire kit and fuel pump.

I've still got to buy the FMIC and exhaust and am paying for this project as I go putting none of it on credit but I needed to replace the timing belt and other maintenance immediately and didn't have the luxury of driving the car reliably without it, the old belt had breaks in it running half it's width and it was due for a water pump.

thx for the replys and I'll order the studs soon and do the replacement.

 

[bsbllfit7]

see in my situation the head was rebuilt at 80k along with new water pump and full timing job, belt is still in good condition and has very good tension. I have goals to shoot to about 25 psi soon and am thinking of doing this.

 

[the_mork]

I did for arp head stud install, it was simple quick, and easy.

Use a long non-magnetized screwdriver to put the washers in place then put the studs through them so that you can easily clear the valve springs. The procedure is simple, let the washers slide all the way up the screwdriver then place the tip in the stud hole and let the washer slide into place.

 

[clone]

In my case, it would be to replace the new ARP's with the L19's I should have bought in the first place.

thanks for the comment I'll specify L19's instead of the "generic" ARP's.

p.s. head studs can be reused correct?.... I'd hate to pull the head to swap the stock gasket for an MLS and then discover that it's not advisable... I'll do a search through the forums next on this particular subject (reusing ARP head studs)

 

[RLPerformance]

Headstuds can be reused. One purpose of the headstud is that it doesnt stretch like standard OEM head bolts do when you torque them down. Ive pulled and reinstalled heads multiple times on the same studs and had no issues after reinstallation. Just double check that each stud is tight in the hole before putting the head back on. Sometimes they losen when removing the head.

 

[snowborder714]

I believe head studs can still stretch, as you're supposed to use a stretch gauge before reinstalling them (not just stock bolts). If they're out of spec, replace them.

 

[the_mork]

thanks for the comment I'll specify L19's instead of the "generic" ARP's.

Don't bother, if you're asking this sort of question then you're a long ways off from making the sort of massive power that requires L19s. A regular ARP stud is the way to go for you.

 

[proteusx301]

Sorry to resurrect this old post, but I didn't see the point of making a new thread when my question directly pertains to the discussion. From what I'm reading, its ok to replace the headbolts with studs one at a time. I'm assuming you do it in the torque and de-torque order the manual says. My only question to add to this; in doing this, do you have to worry about torque distortion of the block by doing all this without pulling the head?

 

[whe3ls]

when i did mine i removed the bolt, then put the stud in and torqued the stud to 30. once all the studs where in, i torqued them to 60 then to 90, i also didnt use the arp washers i reused the stock ones, didnt even take the washers out

 

[nightmares GS-T]

I also did mine this way. Just follow the tightening sequence to replace them one at a time.

 

[BoostedBeater]

when i did mine i removed the bolt, then put the stud in and torqued the stud to 30. once all the studs where in, i torqued them to 60 then to 90, i also didnt use the arp washers i reused the stock ones, didnt even take the washers out

I would highly suggest against this. The studs should be installed finger tight only to allow for proper stretch. Doing otherwise can result in damage and uneven clamping force. Theres a reason ARP makes a big deal out of it.

Also, you can never use to much lube. I would recommend ARP's as you will get the most consistent tightening with their moly lube.

 

[b00st3d4g63]

I was going to do this once I get motivated. How did you guys get the studs tight in the block? Like the guy above said it should not be finger tight how did you guys get them in there tight? Two nuts against each other? I have a rebuilt engine with about 2k on it and I want to change the bolts for studs.... I should have done studs to begin with but I was stupid.

 

[Sandman817]

I was going to do this once I get motivated. How did you guys get the studs tight in the block? Like the guy above said it should not be finger tight how did you guys get them in there tight? Two nuts against each other? I have a rebuilt engine with about 2k on it and I want to change the bolts for studs.... I should have done studs to begin with but I was stupid.

You misread what boostedbeater said. he said The studs should be installed finger tight only

 

[AndrewD5418]

Headstuds can be reused. One purpose of the headstud is that it doesnt stretch like standard OEM head bolts do when you torque them down. Ive pulled and reinstalled heads multiple times on the same studs and had no issues after reinstallation. Just double check that each stud is tight in the hole before putting the head back on. Sometimes they losen when removing the head.

Head bolts can be reused too. As long as they're 1g and didn't stretch. .

 

[b00st3d4g63]

Ohh whoops. I'm actually illiterate.

 

[BoostedBeater]

You misread what boostedbeater said. he said The studs should be installed finger tight only

Thanks for clearing that up for him


Just an FYI, the inverted hex head on the studs is for removal purposes ONLY!!! DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, TIGHTEN THE STUDS WITH A WRENCH.

If the studs wont go in by hand you have dirty threads that must be cleaned out with a thread chase. DO NOT USE A TAP, doing so will remove material from the threads and weaken them!

If you cannot find a thread chase you can cut 3-4 groves in a properly sized bolt, just deep enough to cut a shallow ditch past the threads. It will have the same cleaning effect if done properly. Just go easy, take your time and slowly clean the threads. When you're done you will need to blow out any blind bolt holes (not to familiar with 4g63's afaik they might all be blind? anyone know??).

 

[whe3ls]

i did install the studs figure tight. i torqued the nuts to 30lbs.

 

[TheMitsuGS-T]

I was told to put the studs in and torque them to spec then loosen the torque etc etc five times to stretch the threads... Is that the same as putting them in hand tight or is that statement just incorrect?