Can Dejon LIP-1gA2 work with OE SMIC?

[TrevorS]

I have a Dejon COP-A J-Pipe and OE SMIC and am interested in getting their 2-1/4" LIP-1gA2 LICP and using a silicon reducer to mate the 2-1/4" pipe to the 1-3/4" IC inlet.

I emailed them and their first response is simply they don't have anything for the 1g SMIC -- duh, I already knew that ! So, I just tried again, but am not counting on a more useful response.

Does anyone know if a reducer is enough to overcome the fit issue, or is there a change in the IC inlet location that prevents hookup even with flexible couplers (say hump hose couplers as well as the reducer). Any insight appreciated !

==================A LITTLE LATER======================

I called Dijon and learned there are two issues with the 1ga SMIC. One being the inlet diameter, the other being the inlet could be at either of two angles. So, I've decided to give it a whirl using a silicon reducer at the SMIC and a silicon hump hose at the pipe junction. I'm hoping they'll provide enough angular flexibility to make it work.

 

[4Lurker4]

I believe you would need to mod it in some way. Look at this pic

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Aftermarket Dejon 1g SMIC -------------------------- Stock 1g SMIC

This was their 1g sidemount upgrade, the one that mates with the pipe in question. See how the inlet is oriented differently? That's why they are telling you they don't make stock SMIC piping, the one you're referring to only works with the aftermarket one they used to make which is oriented sideways not upwards. You could possibly make it fit by either modding the stock smic inlet, but that's just a guess from the picture.

 

[TrevorS]

Thanks for that! Looks like a bigger problem than I was imagining, but will have to see what might work when the parts arrive. I looked on their site earlier for their mentioned SMIC, but I guess as you indicated, they don't make it anymore.

 

[TrevorS]

Worked out OK !

Cut a little off the OE SMIC inlet (EDIT -- and later cut the left side bushing grommets and added a couple thickish washers to the top to lower the SMIC about 1/8" for improved coolant reservoir clearance) -- only needed the longer of the two hard pipes plus a silicon reducer and hump coupler. Works great !

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[4Lurker4]

Looks good! Your next task to get the most out of that set up, get a shroud made to direct air in and prevent it from seeping back out. Something like this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/338863-sheet-metal-smic-duct.html

Obviously this is for a 2g, but the same applies to a 1g. And enlarge the vents on the fender well plastic or cut a hole in it and replace with a mesh. That'll give you the best out of that setup. Also, if you ended up cutting the beaded/rolled end of the pipe I would suggest putting a small weld or something higher than the pipe to avoid the coupler from slipping off at high boost (not sure how much of it you cut)

Yes they did stop making the 1g and 2g upgraded SMICs, I stocked up on a couple (for 2g) because that's all I ever want to run. They are "perfect" for my driving style for the lack of a better word.

 

[TrevorS]

Looks good! Your next task to get the most out of that set up, get a shroud made to direct air in and prevent it from seeping back out. Something like this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/338863-sheet-metal-smic-duct.html

Obviously this is for a 2g, but the same applies to a 1g. And enlarge the vents on the fender well plastic or cut a hole in it and replace with a mesh. That'll give you the best out of that setup. Also, if you ended up cutting the beaded/rolled end of the pipe I would suggest putting a small weld or something higher than the pipe to avoid the coupler from slipping off at high boost (not sure how much of it you cut)

Yes they did stop making the 1g and 2g upgraded SMICs, I stocked up on a couple (for 2g) because that's all I ever want to run. They are "perfect" for my driving style for the lack of a better word.

Interesting read on the duct and sealing the duct to the SMIC -- I could never lose my fog-lights though, I use them !

I trimmed out the molded supports between the vent vanes (as per the photo) which I believe gained something approaching 20% open area. I'm a little concerned about removing the vanes since they provide a splash shield from the wheel in water.

If you look at the photo of the modified OE SMIC, you can see I retained the second bead. First because I preferred to have a bead, second because I really wasn't certain how this experiment would work out -- didn't want to risk cutting off too much. As it is, I shortened the inlet by approx 1-1/4".

The LICP fit is very tight between the reducer and the coolant reservoir, but not too tight. I definitely like how straight a run it provides from the J-Pipe down through the inlet. I took it for a brief run including a little boost and the pipe was still cold when I got back. I'm expecting this to be much better than the OE hose.

I asked David Johnson about their OE SMIC modding (2-1/4" inlet and outlet) but he said they stopped doing that five years ago. Looks like finding and installing a larger SMIC is a sizable project all by itself ! I tend to be easy on the throttle and so it's really not a huge issue for me.

 

[TrevorS]

Looked at the OE IC duct with the OE SMIC and don't see a problem, though indeed, it doesn't seal. Picked up a roll of -10F to 210F "Metalized Flex Duct" tape from Lowe's and applied to the SMIC right and bottom (looking in the wheel well), but couldn't get at the top, so decided to loosen the right side front fascia for access. Still working on that -- frozen bolt problem!

=======================NEXT DAY=======================

Got all sides sealed including (as best I can manage) the inlet side. It would be closed up again except that broken bolt is giving me fits. Neither of my vice-grips have been able to turn it (plenty exposed to grab). Hopefully, I just didn't soak it enough, so am giving it hours this time, maybe even overnight. I guess I could try drilling it out, but it's in an awkward spot pointing upward and interfered with by everything nearby !

Noticed the forward upper fender to liner screw is missing, probably a leftover from the shop body work a number of years back. Moved the rearward screw forward and it tightened fine, replacement fascia bolt and liner screw should be in Thursday!

 

[TrevorS]

Got all sides sealed including (as best I can manage) the inlet side. It would be closed up again except that broken bolt is giving me fits. Neither of my vice-grips have been able to turn it (plenty exposed to grab). Hopefully, I just didn't soak it enough, so am giving it hours this time, maybe even overnight. I guess I could try drilling it out, but it's in an awkward spot pointing upward and interfered with by everything nearby !

Noticed the forward upper fender to liner screw is missing, probably a leftover from the shop body work a number of years back. Moved the rearward screw forward and it tightened fine, replacement fascia bolt and liner screw should be in Wednesday!

Darn! Still can't turn that broken bolt no matter how hard I tighten the vice grips. Since it extends a little below the fascia flange, I decided to try cutting a thread on it and see if a 6mmX1.00 nut can secure it. Very frustrating !

===========================LATER============================

Picked up the bolts, screws, and nut and found the nut worked pretty well to secure the fascia at the front wheel (definitely not ideal, but it works). So, I put everything back together and took fresh photos. Here they are:

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=======================NEXT DAY========================

Reinstalled the liner vent panel, cleaned up the area, resprayed with undercoat, mounted the wheel, and lowered the car. Guess that's another project completed !

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[TrevorS]

Darn! Still can't turn that broken bolt no matter how hard I tighten the vice grips. Since it extends a little below the fascia flange, I decided to try cutting a thread on it and see if a 6mmX1.00 nut can secure it. Very frustrating !

The nut solution worked, but it couldn't be safely wrench tightened due to mediocre re-cut bolt thread strength. I wasn't happy with it and finally decided to reopen it for another extraction attempt. I realize now I should have tried jamming a pair of nuts on it before trashing the thread with vice-grips -- the penetrating fluid would more likely have worked then.

However, nut jamming didn't work with the re-cut thread , nor did grinding down opposite sides of the bolt a little and grabbing the flats with vice grips -- finally decided to drill! Used a Dremel to cut the bolt flush, then tried to punch a center point for the drill, but just couldn't get the drill to stay put. Tried cutting cross-grooves with the Dremel, but still ended up drilling well off center ! In any case, the drill (three consecutive sizes) cut through part of the bolt and also part of the welded mounting nut in the fender. Still couldn't get the bolt remainder out and so finally gave up and cut the end off with the Dremel (very fortunate it reached, hack-sawing with a bare blade was taking forever). Figured I'd have to use one of the nuts to secure the replacement bolt, but amazingly enough, the bolt tightened (despite the severely mistreated nut thread), hugely better than my previous attempt with a nut applied to the re-threaded broken bolt.

After cleaning up the penetrating fluid, applying paint to the abused surfaces (hidden), and allowing drying time, I reattached the fascia with anti-seize on the bolts, reinstalled the right front lamps, reinstalled the vented liner, and touched up the undercoating.

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Finally, I re-installed the wheel, removed some red paint from where it tipped over and scraped a metal gas can , re-polished the wheel, dropped the car again, and now it's not only done, but it's right -- feeling much happier! :

 

[bryanwheat]

Whats up with the coupler inside the coupler on the j pipe?

 

[agentorange313]

Whats up with the coupler inside the coupler on the j pipe?

Its Dejons style of a reducer.......I had one of the same design on my intake from them, to reduce the 3 inch inlet to 2.25 14b inlet. I mean its a good concept to save room, the turbo intake area is small, plus the wastegate nipple gets in the way.

OP:
Looks like you could use a dual piston brake upgrade, its one of the best bangs for your buck ever. so cheap and so useful

 

[TrevorS]

The real limitation with my front brakes is they have the early undersize discs and mating calipers. Which is kind of weird since the transition date on those discs is supposed to be months before my '90 was built (Sept '89). I expect the dual piston calipers would require the later discs anyway.

Cheap is my middle name -- where do you get them ?

 

[bryanwheat]

IT would be a lot better idea to just but a reducer coupler. That looks like a good good way for the intercooler pipe to pop off under pressure.

 

[TrevorS]

IT would be a lot better idea to just but a reducer coupler. That looks like a good good way for the intercooler pipe to pop off under pressure.

I've experienced pop-off with my UICP just before the TB neck (solved with T-bolt clamps), but that pipe had somewhere it could go (forward), this one doesn't -- it's basically a straight pipe terminating at each end with another pipe that's fixed (outside of modest engine motion at the J-pipe). I don't think pop-off is a real possibility.

The complete Dejon 1g lower pipe consists of two segments with flat couplers and the same adapter for the J-pipe and same stainless worm clamps. That pipe has more latitude to move than my install and so if there were a problem with the J-pipe coupling, I'd have thought they'd have noticed by now. I have that clamp darned tight.

Here's a photo of the LIP-1gA (shows the J-pipe at the right). I'm using the center pipe, J-pipe adapter, and three of the worm clamps (already had the J-pipe). I added a silicon hump connector and reducer.

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DEJON | Powerhouse

====================================================

By the way, it appears as though the 2g SMIC has same size ports as the big SMIC, any reason it wouldn't fit in a 1g -- outlet in the same location?

Cheap is my middle name -- where do you get them ?

Hmm, don't think I'm going to jump on those puppies at $244 plus ship . Definitely an interesting idea though!

RTM Racing :: - DSM Turbo(4G63) :: Brakes :: Calipers :: DSM Dual-Piston Front Brake Calipers for 1g

How about these? (Topmost calipers in each list.)

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?sid...=1 1 1 1 1&refine=Location_Front, Driver Side

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?sid...1 1 1 1&refine=Location_Front, Passenger Side

Would still need discs and pads.

 

[4Lurker4]

By the way, it appears as though the 2g SMIC has same size ports as the big SMIC, any reason it wouldn't fit in a 1g -- outlet in the same location?

Well I can't talk about the Hahn Big SMIC but I have the Dejon Big SMIC; they have an inlet of 5.5cm and outlet of 6.25cm. The OEM 2g SMIC is 5.25cm for both inlet and outlet. The orientation of inlet and outlet, however, is the same for the OEM 2g SMIC as it is for both BIG Dejon SMICs that were offered for 2g (Dejon/Hahn), the 1g BIG has it's outlet nearer to the right while the 2g BIG has it's outlet nearer to the left.

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You can check per comparison with the 2g Big SMIC here (1rst and 3rd pic on that list of Big SMICs are Dejon, 2nd is a Hahn and the last is an ADFX all shown near a stock 2g SMIC)

 

[TrevorS]

Fantastic info, thanks ! So, the OE 2G SMIC inlet is 2.25", the outlet 2.5" and instead of the inlet angling towards the compressor it juts out horizontally. Seems like that should work fine in a 1G except the outlet hole in the fender would have to be enlarged. Then the rest of the Dejon LIP-1gA2 kit would come to play. Thanks again !

 

[4Lurker4]

So, the OE 2G SMIC inlet is 2.25", the outlet 2.5"

Dimensions are true, but those are for the Big SMIC; the 2g stock/OEM one is only 2.25inches (although more like 2.15) on both inlet/outlet

and instead of the inlet angling towards the compressor it juts out horizontally. Seems like that should work fine in a 1G except the outlet hole in the fender would have to be enlarged.

Yup but don't forget the outlet isn't in the same area either, one is very close to the fender (Both 2g OEM and Big SMIC) the other is closer to the fusebox (both OEM and BIG 1g SMICs). It's also slanted as opposed to straight up. It would be more than just enlarging it, would hack up quite a bit of metal.

 

[TrevorS]

Dimensions are true, but those are for the Big SMIC; the 2g stock/OEM one is only 2.25inches (although more like 2.15) on both inlet/outlet

Yup but don't forget the outlet isn't in the same area either, one is very close to the fender (Both 2g OEM and Big SMIC) the other is closer to the fusebox (both OEM and BIG 1g SMICs). It's also slanted as opposed to straight up. It would be more than just enlarging it, would hack up quite a bit of metal.

Oops, read too fast, thanks for the dimension correction -- 2.25" hose fit would be better for me anyway. However, the exit changes sound like a major problem. Probably a better solution (depending on cost) would be to replace the angled 1G inlet with a short 2.25" horizontal pipe. Course, that assumes the IC tank end dimensions would allow it. Probably should have measured that while it was out.

Thanks again!

 

[TrevorS]

Looks like you could use a dual piston brake upgrade, its one of the best bangs for your buck ever. so cheap and so useful

Thanks much for the input ! I installed '94 AWD calipers and rotors and just test drove it yesterday -- definite improvement !

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