camber kit question

[boostedgsx95]

I ordered megan racing lowering springs earlier, will I NEED a camber kit? does anyone know what the camber will be without the kit?

thanks

 

[timmy]

It is hard to give a "number" on camber, but most likely you will need them... Be safe and spend the extra money ~

 

[Trix96gst]

really depends on what spring you bought. and how much they drop your car. and what size rim and tire you have. me and my buddy both have 2g's and im sitting on eibach pro sport kit with 17's and hes riding the eibach sportline on 18's. overall my car is 2-3 inches lower then hes. my springs dropped 2 inches when hes only dropped him 1 inch. and the fact that hes got 18's and i have 17's.....my car sits around 2.5 inch lower. and as to needing a camber kit. it depends on how low you are when you put springs on. my car i had to get rear and front camber kits. on hes car he doesn't need camber kits. i would suggest stmtuned.com for your rear camber kit $27 shipped and if you want you can get the front from them as well its the same thing as the eibach kit. but i ordered mine straight from eibach. the front kit runs $125 a side fron stm...and on eibach you can get both sides for around $200 shipping varies.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Yes, you will need a camber kit for the rear. The front will not be necessary but of course can only improve things.

DIY washers and bolts work fine but the trial and error process to get them dialed in perfectly can be a hassle. Ingalls/SPC also make a product that allows for finer adjustment but it's also 4x the price.

 

[luv2rallye]

Build your own rear camber kit: 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T Homepage. Make sure you adjust the rear toe which is way more critical than camber. How to measure both: struts & alignment - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

 

[dsm144]

With 2 in lowering springs and stock 205 55 16 tires im at -3.0 degrees camber rear and something around -1.3 in the front. My camber links are adjusted fully out. Im in the market for a kit as well. Hope that helps.

 

[jtmcinder]

DIY washers and bolts work fine but the trial and error process to get them dialed in perfectly can be a hassle. Ingalls/SPC also make a product that allows for finer adjustment but it's also 4x the price.

I totally agree that trial-and-error is a pain, which is why I use math, instead.

I don't have it in front of me, but I'll bet that I posted it way back when. You measure the height of the upper inboard mounting points relative to the lower lateral arm. Then a little trigonometry tells you exactly what size stack of washers you need.

This is for the rear, of course. The upper pivots on a 2G point down, so they can't be shimmed for camber.

 

[luv2rallye]

Here's an affordable camber gauge for any type wheel (unlike many) that's easy to use: Caster/ Camber Gauge

 

[luv2rallye]

If you use the "make it yourself rear camber kit" (washes shim method) make sure you use longer bolts - factory ones are too short. The washers reduce the number of bolt threads that go into the frame and they can strip the frame threads, or get loose, or fall out (personal experience on getting loose and making clunk noise). Also use thread lock. Use bolts M10x1.25x30mm long and at least 8.8 hardness.

 

[jtmcinder]

I found my old post on the trigonometry. The height of the rear knuckle is approx 24". Also, if the car has been dropped 2", my guess is that he'll need M10x40mm 1.25 bolts, not 30mm. Better to be safe and there's lots of room on the inside for the extra part if I'm overshooting.

see: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/han...en-now-im-just-another-victim.html#post759953