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Cam swap (BC272 to stock). Have questions.

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Thanks to pneumatic tools, I can swap camshafts in around 15-20 minutes using the procedure outlined in the link you provided. It's foolproof as long as you have the right tools. You may want a new pair of cam seals depending on how old your current seals are.

I have to be the first to ask....why are you going back to stock?
 
Thanks to pneumatic tools, I can swap camshafts in around 15-20 minutes using the procedure outlined in the link you provided. It's foolproof as long as you have the right tools. You may want a new pair of cam seals depending on how old your current seals are.

I have to be the first to ask....why are you going back to stock?

A few reason:

1. "Air care" in Vancouver Canada is a bi***. I need to pass before Feb or else I can't insure my car. This is the main reason.

2. I do 90% of my driving in stop and go traffic, the stock cams should make my life easier.

3. I want a bit of my low end back.

4. I'm hoping it will fix my part throttle knock and I can turn the boost up from 14 PSI

I have new cam seals, valve cover gasket set, oil resistance RTV, assembly lube... anything missing?

Although my old cam seals and valve cover gasket set are 5000 miles new.

=====================================

More questions....

4. How do you know the lifters are fully bled?
5. Do you drain the oil for this procedure or leave it in?
5.1. When you're all done do you just top it up with oil, manually crank it over by hand and go?

Thanks,

Tom
 
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More questions....

4. How do you know the lifters are fully bled?
5. Do you drain the oil for this procedure or leave it in?
5.1. When you're all done do you just top it up with oil, manually crank it over by hand and go?

Thanks,

Tom
I've never bled the lifters on any cams I've installed unless they were the 3G lifters because it's almost impossible to bleed any other lifter with such a small orifice at the crown.

What I do instead is reassemble the entire setup and torque the cam caps, then let the the project sit overnight. The lifters will generally bleed themselves given enough time....it may be as little as a couple hours if you use thin oil and it's summertime.
 
I've never bled the lifters on any cams I've installed unless they were the 3G lifters because it's almost impossible to bleed any other lifter with such a small orifice at the crown.

What I do instead is reassemble the entire setup and torque the cam caps, then let the the project sit overnight. The lifters will generally bleed themselves given enough time....it may be as little as a couple hours if you use thin oil and it's summertime.

I have 3G lifters and unfortunately I'm using the shop at my work to do this so I have to clear it out ASAP so I will have to bleed them.

Thanks for the advice.
 
I might add that doing it this way doesn't ENSURE that nothing on the timing belt side stays where it should. Once you do get everything buttoned back up be sure to check your timing before trying to start the car, this way if something is off you'll know it before you bend any valves.

:dsm:
 
Ok so the transplant is complete. Everything went well until I started the motor. There was a loud clanking noise (don't know how to describe it) and it scared the crap out of me but it went away after a few miles of driving.

I love the feel of the car now. So much smoother. Now for the next test... Air Care. Wish me luck.

PS: Thanks for the help everyone. I owe you all a beer and if you ever come to Vancouver you can collect :)
 
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