Bullseye housing broken bolts?

[95burgundyesi]

Everytime I take my turbo off, the turbo bolt threads are junk, left in the housing threads still, and this time one snapped in the hole. This only happens with this stupid BEP housing. The t25 and 14b never did this. I goop on copper anti seize and never reuse STOCK mitsu turbo bolts, and use the turbo washers on all four bolts. I am seriously thinking four studs and a nut like the one stud from the factory is the way to go.

Is it because the turbo is so heavy or what? Anyone else get this with bullseye housings? Good thing it's winter, I hate waiting 3 days for turbo bolts. I need to start stock piling them.

 

[doctor_shock10]

i have the same problem so its not just you. the next time i take off my turbo its going on the shelf and staying there.

 

[95burgundyesi]

Is yours a bullseye housing?

 

[dsm-onster]

That turbo is much heavier. That's what I suspect caused one of my bolts to "act up" then tightened them and losened the bolts in smaller turns each. I ran a tap through it again and loosen in smaller stages and havn't had any issue since.

Soe don't bang their water pipe out of the way enough so that it contacts the compressor housing too. This will cause this to happen as well. Happened with me on another car I had and happened with two friends.

Also the housing puts the turbo at a slightly different angle and a hare closer to the front of the car. An o2 housing still bolted on will help cause a bind if you're exhaust system is stock shape or meant to fit as stock.

 

[95burgundyesi]

Can you explain the water pipe again, I am confused- dent it or not? I cleared it without a dent but I very slightly dented it just for good measure. I can't recall if I had unbolted the open downpipe or not, since all I was doing was changing the restrictor.

So just give me your steps taken that solved your problems, that was I repeat your process and hopfully net the same results.

 

[dsmmatt28]

Same thing happened to me. I suspect something to do with there metal casting and the bolts that were using cause theme to seize. I used anti-seiz and still had the same problem. I final went T3 and said to hell with the POS housing.. Im so glad i went T3 so much more variety.

 

[velocitysport31]

If your using the stainless Bep housing you should be using stainless bolts, Arp sells them. On my bullseye turbo I had on my 2g the previous owner snapped a bolt in it, I removed the bolt then studded it with arp studs, I never had a problem since.

 

[95burgundyesi]

Mine is not the stainless, it was brown and cast. Maybe I will go arp anyway, but if one of those break in there I will be F'ed!

 

[dsmmatt28]

If your using the stainless Bep housing you should be using stainless bolts, Arp sells them. On my bullseye turbo I had on my 2g the previous owner snapped a bolt in it, I removed the bolt then studded it with arp studs, I never had a problem since.

This makes since now. To late now.

 

[dsm-onster]

Yea I think I'll go the studs route for the next BEP housing I get.

 

[blackhawkgsx]

Hey Guys rather than make a new thread for the same topic I wanted to bring this one back ... I got a new water pipe because the old one was leaking so I went ahead and replaced that last night and all for of my arp bolts in my bep housing snapped like twigs in the winter time ...... So now I am stuck they are broken inside the housing so the question is how should I get these out , how did you guys get it out? I know I can try to dill it out but I don't want to risk damaging the treads as I have no experience doing this....I was thinking taking it to a local shop and let them deal with it if willing...

 

[95burgundyesi]

I work in a machine shop and used a bridgeport to precision drill them out without making contact with the housing. Doing it by hand is just too risky/hard.

 

[92laserplayer]

sorry for bringing this one back from the dead but i just had the same problem, i have the hx35 housing and i used the arp stainless turbo bolts, with a brand new set of o2 housing bolts and more than enough anti seize for 3 installs and now have a housing with 4 broken turbo bolts, 3 o2 housing bolts broke off and 2 of the chra clamp bolts broken off in it, is this really an issue? Would BEP cover something like this on warranty or should i just ditch it and use the money i would spend on it at a machine shop to fix it and just go t3?

 

[JusMX141]

DO NOT use regular anti-seize on turbo bolts. Regular anti-seize is based on aluminum, so once the carrier lubricant evaporates or dissipates over time the only thing that is left are tiny aluminum flakes. This is fine for basic bolts that never see heat.

Now take tiny aluminum flakes and heat them to 1600*. What happens? They melt, fill in the gaps in the threads, then once they cool they basically weld the bolt to the housing.

Basically, you screwed yourself by using regular anti-seize. Stainless steel is just steel with high amounts of nickel, so you'd need nickel anti-seize if you don't want this to happen again.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[donniekak]

I stopped repairing threads in my housings a long time ago. Now when a bolt breaks I drill it out, and replace it with a nut, and bolt. When the nut seizes to the bolt, I break the bolt, and both halves fall out, nothing to get stuck.