The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Building my solid head from scratch

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

954TalonTsi

15+ Year Contributor
189
0
Dec 10, 2007
Ft.lauderdale, Florida
Hey guys wanted to post this hear because I do not want to be yelled at by moderators. I will have a bare 6 bolt head soon and want to build a bullet proof head for my later high HP beast. I would just like a few pointers as to which are the best chices for my required goals. First off my goals are around 400-500 WHP depending on my set psi. I want to eithe get a kit for Crower or Manley that both include spring, retainers, and valve locks. If anyone thinks one better please mention. As far as valves its a toss up....looked at Crowers, Manleys, and Ferrer. Might go toward cheaper unless someone has a good recomendation. Also found Ferrea guides, seals, and lifters. Like I said I am just looking for pointers from people that have bulletproof heads on their car. Hell I might just as well send it off to SBR in Orlando or off to Shep. Any suggestions are welcome. Thankx

Tom
 
Good luck on your build, I have similar goals in mind and contacted sbr about it. A good set of cams/retainers/springs on a 1g head will hold 400whp+.
Although the rest of your items in your build will need to be up to par as well...
 
After learning what I have over the last 3 years building these cars I would spend money elsewhere. I have about 425 whp with a fully built race ported head +1mm valves blah blah blah and my 18g doesn't really benefit from it. Diambo4life only has cams and spring/retainers and runs 10s with a stock head, and I am sure there are plenty of others.

Don't get me wrong, a well built head is important, but ours is great from the factory. Throw some cams on there to get some more top end, and some springs/retainers so you can rev high w/o valve float.

I run 3g lifters from partsdinosaur.com.

If the head is in good shape then you can just get a 3 or 5 angle valve job and have them check the valve guides. A light porting to remove casting flaws is a good idea too.

If you want to spend money on the head then get some Kelford cams & Manley spring/retainer/lock kit.

Thats my .02.
 
Thankx for the info. My car is mainly gonna be autox or street courses so I'm gona have to keep the revs up in the power range, so that why i asking. I just dont want to have valve float and end up ruining my head and/or block.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top